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Solid aluminum Motor Mounts

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Old 11-23-08, 01:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
I would think that a little lock-tite could solve that problem.
The issue that I have with the stock mounts IS the rubber between the two bolts. How many times has someone hauled a motor only to see the bottom mount just fall away? Happened to me twice. Hasn't thus far with the Mazda Comp mounts. However, everything in my engine bay is at such tight tolerances (IE - charge piping strait off the turbo's to the strut tower bar is about 3/16") that I MAY NEED these just to keep the motor from rocking as mush as it has in the past. Time will tell though. I also have a brace from the motor directly to the support going from the firewall to the shock tower that is, believe it or not, a rear end link with some energy suspension bushings in it. We'll see how that works but the movement in my setup needs to be minimal, as in 1/8" which is fairly har to attain with rubber. Like I said, time will tell.

I think you misunderstand. I don't mean that the nut starts to spin and come off, I mean that the puck gets shorter and the bolt doesn't, removing the pre-load on the bolt, potentially loosing all pre-load, causing the bolt to become loose, even if the nut doesn't turn. This could well cause some pretty big shock loads on it. This will all depend on the forces involved and the stiffness of the material though (clutch drop drag launch on slicks with rubber will be worse than a normal shift with stiffer poly).

If I was in the market for something stronger and stiffer, I'd get the AWR mounts.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=76
Old 11-23-08, 02:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
I think you misunderstand. I don't mean that the nut starts to spin and come off, I mean that the puck gets shorter and the bolt doesn't, removing the pre-load on the bolt, potentially loosing all pre-load, causing the bolt to become loose, even if the nut doesn't turn. This could well cause some pretty big shock loads on it. This will all depend on the forces involved and the stiffness of the material though (clutch drop drag launch on slicks with rubber will be worse than a normal shift with stiffer poly).

If I was in the market for something stronger and stiffer, I'd get the AWR mounts.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=76

You're right, I did misunderstand. However, I can't really see a 3" diameter solid block of Aluminum compressing enough to loosen the bolt, just my opinion.
Old 11-23-08, 02:25 PM
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Yea, like I said earlier, for something solid like aluminum, not really an issue, for something like rubber or polyeurethane, it's much more of a concern.
Old 11-15-09, 09:54 PM
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sry to revive an old thread but does it matter what kinda bolts you use for the aftermarket aluminum mounts?
Old 11-16-09, 04:44 PM
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The best ones you can find. 10.9 metric or grade 8 in inch sizes are about equivalent. You can find 12.9 metric stuff sometimes in allen head bolts that's stronger still
Old 11-16-09, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
We have rotary engines not v8's with lumpy cams. Vibrations aren't a big thing.
That really depends on your porting. Mine is lumpy as all hell.
Old 11-16-09, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
sry to revive an old thread but does it matter what kinda bolts you use for the aftermarket aluminum mounts?
Not really. Even grade 5 bolts have more then enough strength to take the load. Because everything is securely fastened there is a lot less shock load. Make sure you use washers though, this helps distribute the load better ensuring you don't deform the brackets or subframe.
Old 11-16-09, 10:06 PM
  #33  
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its not all about lumpyness, a V8 has ALOT more internal interta to throw what ever its attached to around VS smaller lighter motors.

i've got some soild aluminums i bought on ebay. work just like u expect them to, minimal vibrations if at all.




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