Solid aluminum Motor Mounts
 

This thread is an attempt to break the myth of solid motor mounts rattling your teeth out.

I have driven a TII with good stock type motor mounts, I have driven my TII with stock motor mounts with one broken, and now I have driven my TII with solid aluminum Himni motor mounts.

Once I test drove the car with the solid mounts I was surprised, by how smooth the car felt. There was VERY LITTLE vibration. As a matter of fact the only vibration I noticed was at low RPMs when I was shifting far too early.

As a matter of fact, I truly feel that it vibrated less than stock mounts.

With stock mounts it seemed that the engine was allowed to move more and therefore gain more momentum when moving side to side.

Also I noticed a significant increase in throttle response, and a lot less movement in the shifter.

I would also like to note that I am using a lightweight aluminum racing beat flywheel, which may have some effect on my results. Still, intuitively I feel that it does not make much difference.


In summary, the car is still comfortable to drive with solid mounts and there are noticeable performance gains. I wouldn't use anything else.

Where did you get aluminum ones from? Sounds interesting

http://www.himni-racing.com/

If you have any kind of mechanical ability you could easily make them yourself. Its just 2.5 in round stock aluminum, cut 2 inches tall with a hole drilled through the center.

I just bought them because I didn't feel like sourcing the aluminum.

We have rotary engines not v8's with lumpy cams. Vibrations aren't a big thing.

Hey, Thanks for posting this up now I am really thinking of getting these. I was wondering what you had to do to change the mounts? Do you have to pull the motor out or can you just slip them in an easier way?:icon_tup:

You can either lift the motor up a bit after unbolting the mounts from the bottom, or you can use a jack and a 2x4 and very carefully jack the engine up by the oil pan, or transmission again after unbolting the mounts from the bottom.

my motor didnt vibrate with the solid mounts...only when i put the solid alum trans mounts now its a lil worse...stock was better 4me..

mine just came in today... ill be installing them tom mabe... ill let you guys know how it feels

Nice thread revival. But solid mounts are the way to go unless you are daily driving the car (how fun is that...). Love mine, just be careful ordering them from Himni Racing because mine took two months to come in and the seller completely avoided my emails and messages.

Wow, one data point in a sea of noise...

Most people claim noise and vibration are increased.
I find all these cheap-ass designs a waste of time.
Anyone can slap a block of aluminum / wood / polyurethane / ice / doodoo and drill a hole in and use a bolt and nut.
I prefer the stock design and the Mazda Competition upgrade units work fine for me.


-Ted

I have to agree with RETed on this one. Those puck of material with a bolt through it isn't a very good design. Although I suppose if it's solid it's not nearly as bad as if it's a material with flex, like polyeurethane.

The only other mount that I'd really consider is the AWR mounts, they're the ONLY aftermarket mount I've ever seen that isn't simply a puck of something with a bolt through it.

im sold on the mazda comp ones... hehehe...

ive had solid aluminum mounts in my 240sx when i did the sr20 swap.... Loved how it felt... when your driving, its not noticeable. When your idling, you could feel and hear it lol.

I have solids never really felt the diffrence because i went form stock engine with stock mount to high horsepower engine with solids...i guess i will never know

Why isn't it a good design RETed? Please don't take this as me trying to fight with you but the majority of the posts I come across from you really don't show anything to support your opinion. I see a lot of don't but never why. I have no doubt you're a smart guy and you've been though a lot of this. How about a little more of an explanation?

I've been using them in my vert for 3000-4000 miles with no ill effects. No damage to be seen or felt anywhere. The vibration is minimal. I don't notice it at all while driving around and at idle it was only noticeable for a couple of days after swapping out my old rubber mounts. Even then I could barely tell the difference.

Between swapping out my motor mounts, transmission mounts and my shifter bushings my car feels brand new to me. Shifting has become crisp and the ride feels great! 100% worth it in my opinion.

I have solid mounts on my 240 with a KA24DE and the only extra vibrations are at idle, everywhere else I love the feel of instant power when I need it and the car starts faster and just performs better overall. I love them

The issue with that design is more around mounts that use flexible "pucks". In that case, the puck compresses and the bolt gets loose when you push on it, then when you pull on it all you're doing is pulling on the bolt, so there's effectively no give there and it doesn't isolate very well. The stock type mounts have studs moulded in that are seperate for each side, connected only by the rubber, so you therefore get isolation in compression and tension without ever getting it loose.

This has been rehashed enough already that a search should turn up the info.
If you use a little common sense, you can figure out the answer to this.
One of the vendors on here gets asshurt everytime this comes up.

I'm on my way out to work soon, but if you want a more detailed answer, I can provide on in a few hours.


-Ted

Those look really simple to make. I would imagine with using a bolt going all the way through that it risk breaking because the bolt takes all the abuse.

I have over 40,000 miles of abuse from all types of driving on my car with these mounts. I have removed and reinstalled them (for other jobs) probably 3-5 times, they still look brand new. Simple and effective, IMO.

unless the mount is in compression

I would think that a little lock-tite could solve that problem.
The issue that I have with the stock mounts IS the rubber between the two bolts. How many times has someone hauled a motor only to see the bottom mount just fall away? Happened to me twice. Hasn't thus far with the Mazda Comp mounts. However, everything in my engine bay is at such tight tolerances (IE - charge piping strait off the turbo's to the strut tower bar is about 3/16") that I MAY NEED these just to keep the motor from rocking as mush as it has in the past. Time will tell though. I also have a brace from the motor directly to the support going from the firewall to the shock tower that is, believe it or not, a rear end link with some energy suspension bushings in it. We'll see how that works but the movement in my setup needs to be minimal, as in 1/8" which is fairly har to attain with rubber. Like I said, time will tell.

there is really a strange stigma about solid mounts. They cause a very minimal amount of vibration (in our cars) and make the acceleration as well as the shifting significantly more crisp.

I've had solid mounts pretty much from the start with my car, when it was N/A with just a header, to now where I have the turbo swap, and couldn't be happier (I daily drove it for 3 years in the summer like this and put on over 70k km's on it like this), I have hauled the engine out likely 5 or 6 times and they haven't been squished, or deformed, I also use Nyloc nuts so they won't back off, and replace the nut every time I remove it from the bolt.

Guys ive ridden in a car in polly mounts and its was just as bad if not worse then solid mounts at take off and idle, and whats all this about them being so simple to make? of course their simple to make and thats y im glad i only paid 50$ for em not some outrageous price another well known company would charge.

Btw i ride around with powered by max competition coilovers with 10kg springs up front and 8 kg in the rear.... ive had this setup for a year now and i love it and guess what i didn't compress my spine or shatter my teeth my skull out like some of the overreacters on this forum love to say