So what tool did u invent
iduno if this counts as custom but on more than one occasion ive used a big steel pipe as a breaker bar when you stick it over a 1/2 drive ratchet. funny storyactualy. on my old honda i had the hub bolt that holds the cv axel in place cross-thread. i (at 200lbs) was jumping up and down on the end of the 2.5' pipe and the damn thing harly budged. lucky me i hadent reassembled the hub over it yet or i would have been screwed. pulled the whole cv axel out and back to autozone on waranty
had to make a torque mutiplier to remove the flywheel / torque converter plate bolt on and 88 and 86... it ended up needing close to 1000 pounds of torque to loosen the rusty bastard.
the setup i used was a 4 in. wide c channel bar with a flywheel nut sized socket welded in placec on one end and at the correect distance on the other end (pain in the ***) i drilled a hole for a shaft with a starter motor sprocket which indexed with the flywheel teeth and a 12/2 in drive socket on the other end. to make sure the shaft holding the sprocket and 1/2 in. drive didnt have too much play i cut a bit into the open side of the c channel and then welded a plate across that the shaft also went thru before i drilled it. worked like a dream. all i had to do was figure out the ratio (count the teeth on each gear) to torque it back down.
the setup i used was a 4 in. wide c channel bar with a flywheel nut sized socket welded in placec on one end and at the correect distance on the other end (pain in the ***) i drilled a hole for a shaft with a starter motor sprocket which indexed with the flywheel teeth and a 12/2 in drive socket on the other end. to make sure the shaft holding the sprocket and 1/2 in. drive didnt have too much play i cut a bit into the open side of the c channel and then welded a plate across that the shaft also went thru before i drilled it. worked like a dream. all i had to do was figure out the ratio (count the teeth on each gear) to torque it back down.
had to make a torque mutiplier to remove the flywheel / torque converter plate bolt on and 88 and 86... it ended up needing close to 1000 pounds of torque to loosen the rusty bastard.
the setup i used was a 4 in. wide c channel bar with a flywheel nut sized socket welded in placec on one end and at the correect distance on the other end (pain in the ***) i drilled a hole for a shaft with a starter motor sprocket which indexed with the flywheel teeth and a 1/2 in drive socket on the other end. to make sure the shaft holding the sprocket and 1/2 in. drive didnt have too much play i cut a bit into the open side of the c channel and then welded a plate across that the shaft also went thru before i drilled it. worked like a dream. all i had to do was figure out the ratio (count the teeth on each gear) to torque it back down.
the setup i used was a 4 in. wide c channel bar with a flywheel nut sized socket welded in placec on one end and at the correect distance on the other end (pain in the ***) i drilled a hole for a shaft with a starter motor sprocket which indexed with the flywheel teeth and a 1/2 in drive socket on the other end. to make sure the shaft holding the sprocket and 1/2 in. drive didnt have too much play i cut a bit into the open side of the c channel and then welded a plate across that the shaft also went thru before i drilled it. worked like a dream. all i had to do was figure out the ratio (count the teeth on each gear) to torque it back down.
the usual custom bent/cut wrenches. an old tranny input shaft i cut off to use as a clutch lineup tool. i once used a stack of encyclopedia books to hold my engine up high enough for the eshaft when rebuilding it..lol.
I have a drawer full of bitch screwdrivers/punches/chisels and when i need a weird pry/scraper/whatever, i grab one and take the grinder to it.
And of course BFH!!!
pat
I have a drawer full of bitch screwdrivers/punches/chisels and when i need a weird pry/scraper/whatever, i grab one and take the grinder to it.
And of course BFH!!!
pat
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