So all my pulleys have been powdercoated .. now this poses a wee bit of a problem considering I have no freaking idea where the timing mark is on the pulley lol.

Thoughts on how to time?

 

Take off your pulley, and either compare it to a stock one to remark the timing, or peruse it until you can find the mark and remark it.

 

the bolts sit at 12,3,6,and 9..roughly.
check your cas to see where it is.
But ya,the best thing is to get another stock pulley and Fore-go guessing.

 

ah more work .. fawk.

so throw another pulley and time with that guy, then put back mine>?

 

negative. you need your original pulley cause the pulley and the hubs are tied to the e-shaft in regards to timing. Mazda just drilled and tapped 4 holes through all the pulleys when they assembled the engine.

If you take your old pulley off you should be able to feel around for the marks. They are made with dents into the metal.

 

what?

are you trying to saying the e-shaft and the crank pulley cant be seperated or replaced.

 

there is a long standing myth that that particular pully that came on that particular e-shaft, are one piece. meaning, if you slap another pully on there, the timing marks might ( MIGHT ) be off slightly.

 

now is this actually fact or fiction?

 

im gonna file this one under fiction. if this is true it would render all aftermarket/gilmer pulleys useless

 

it may be fiction but you should still be able to recover the timing marks on your painted pulleys.

if not you can user HAILERS method described here
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...b+shaft+pulley

 

Uhhhh.... the pullies only line up one way. The bolt holes are spaced different and only attach to the e-shaft one way.

Yes, there are different pullies between years. This is because the trailing spark plug holes moved between S4 and S5. so general rule of thumb is that you use S4 pullies with S4 rotor housings and S5 with S5.

 

It is FACT regarding the pulley's being off between engines. Any engine builder will tell you that. An aftermarket pulley works because the hub and the pulley are one piece, and the marks are based on the keyway off the e-shaft.

 

Only pulleys of different series are different. All series four should be the same. A series five on a series four will not be right.

A 1982 RX pulley when put on a series four will show TDC when the first mark is aligned with the fixed pin, unlike a series fours first mark showing -5* when the first mark is aligned. The only problem there is that only three of the four bolt holes will align, but IS a good way of finding TDC on a series four engine (TDC not -5*).

An aftermarket pulley/hub from Racing Beat will be accurate, but most likely will be a undersized pulley of no good use on a street car imho.

TDC can be found on any rotary engine by screwing a two foot piece of clear vinyl tubing into each L sparkplug hole and filling the tube and rotor chamber up with oil, then moving the e-shaft back and forth slightly each way while watching the level in the clear tubing first rise then start to fall. The point between rising and falling IS TDC. Takes patience a the WILL to do it.

That said, you have to be close to TDC already for that to work. Not hard to figure out how to do that.