OustedFairlady

Is there anywhere I can buy a good engine "block", i.e., no intake manifold, exhaust, etc. for my FC, and for less than $12901384.99 shipped to my house? I'd rather not buy EVERYTHING new when I have all of it, and all of the equipment I need to install it, sitting in my shop.

I'm not sure if I'll be needing a new engine, but I'm curious to see if I can or not.

It seemed I remember seeing a shop that sold rebuild engines minus all accessories, intakes, exhaust, basically a "Long block" or whatever rotaries without all that are called, for around $650? Anyone know where I could find something like that? I have a TurboII S4.

StevenL5975

I wouldnd buy a new/used one, just rebuild it yourself.

Thats what I am doing together with a friend on a S5 T2. Watch the mazdatrix rebuild video and do it yourself.
Its not that complicated. Being in the process of rebuilding a v6 piston motor I have to say rotary is a piece of cake.

Rebuild short/long block for 650$ ? That might be a scam or an cheaped out rebuild.
Properly done with all new seals and joints should be around 2000$ and more depending on the condition of the motor.

Rebuilding a running motor might come you cheaper than waiting until its blown
Seals are about 1000$ and add some various parts which needs to be replaced while you are in there. It really depends on the condition of the motor.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Any of the rotary shops can assemble you a basically new short block with all new components, but you're going to have to pay for that. Rotor housings, for example, are about $575 each for the 2nd gen. If you truly want a new engine, you're going to have $3000 just into hard parts before we even start looking at things like gaskets and seals.

If you are just looking for a rebuilt engine, any of the vendors will do that costing anywhere from about $1500 on up.

There are often good used engines in the classifieds section.

Or, you could rebuild it yourself.

OustedFairlady

Well, I'm pretty good with engines, as I've built quite a few stock and upgraded piston engines. I'm not scared of rebuilding the rotary, and I think I could do it with no problems. My issues are with the cost of parts. I guess I just need to be less cheap or stick a piston engine in the car. And I don't want to put a piston engine in the car.

So I guess I need to be less cheap, huh?

*EDIT*

Also, new engine isn't necessarily my goal...just reliable. If it's an older engine that I've refurbished, fine. I have no problems with running a rebuilt engine. As long as it's all within tolerances and won't just explode as I'm driving down the road.

StevenL5975

Yes, do it right or do it twice

Be sure everything is in tolerance, order your parts from a known vendor, mazdatrix atkinsrotary hurleyrotary etc ...

As aaron says a qualitive build will be 1500$ upwards.
If you do the build yourself you dont have to pay someone, so it will be less expensive.
That money you can spend towards a better rebuild kit and other stuff.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

I will build you a completely new short block for $1290138.98.

OustedFairlady

Sounds great. Who should I make the check out to?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the one quirk of the rotary is that there isn't much machining to be done, its mostly inspect and replace.

if you have a good running core, most of the time you can be into it right around $1000, provided your labor is free.

if you really want to go whole hog, and engine with lots of NEW parts really does run better, and its STILL cheaper than doing a comparable rebuild in ANY piston engine.

oh also since most of the parts that are worth buying come from mazda, it is CRUCIAL to get a good deal.

jjwalker

I spent about $6000 for my engine.

I hate R@R so I paid for it, that was $1000.

The rest was new fuel injectors, some porting, and 2 new housings plus a front iron.

OustedFairlady

Whoo...20B, here i come. If I'm gonna end up spending that kind of dough, I might as well go big.

By the way, I rechecked the compression today, and my prior readings were way off. 115 on the front housing, 110-115 on the rear. three even, nice compression pulses on each rotor. Pretty sure my engine has some sort of electronics problem.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I'm pretty sure my engine build cost me less than $2000 in parts, but I spent probably around $500 in tools to do the job right. The next time I go to build again, however, I'll have all the tools I need

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Unless hard parts (housings, irons, shaft, rotors, etc.) are actually bad, there isn't a reason to replace them. Irons don't need to be surfaced until they are worn down past specs. Unlike a piston engine, there isn't much machining done to worn parts (like punching out cylinders). Measure stuff, and if it is within tolerances, it can be reassembled.

A rebuilt engine should run like a new engine. Your primary wear points on the rotary are the apex seals and the housings. If you are concerned about having a perfect engine, new housings are always a good investment and of course you will use all new rotor seals when you assemble it.

These videos should give you an idea of what you are in for....

13B Engine Disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4

13B Engine Parts Cleaning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

13B Engine Assembly/Rebuild:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijJeUk_GqiI

OustedFairlady

Thanks! I thought I was going to hate this car, since it's so different from other cars, and I thought I'd end up sticking a 302 or 1UZ in it, but as it happens, I'm beginning to like the rotary. And the fact that I watched a video of a 787B on the race track didn't help at all... xD