Moksha

iTrader: (5)

So i bought some new motor mounts for my ride from mazdatrix and after i installed them my car it won't shift into first or second while the car is on. And when the cars off it shifts but when i try to start the car tries to roll.

So Idk wtf i did

help would be cool. Thanks

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

seems like your clutch isnt engaging. have a friend push the clutch pedal and look down the drivers side to the clutch slave and see if its moving with the clutch pedal

REAmemiya_fan

I don't know how likely this is, but you might have damaged the input shaft from lifting the engine with the trans attached and bolted to the car. I don't think that would happen, but it could be likely.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

^^ input shaft or pilot bearing / throwout bearing

spahn1

actually that does seam plausible. there aint a hole lot of space between the top of the trans and the bottom of the car. lifting up the engine would have most likely pulled the trans into the bottom of the car. however, it seams to me that if doing this would bend the imput shaft, it would probably bend/stretch the bolts holding the trans to the back of the engine block. check to see if you are leaking trans fluid. if you are, pull your trans and

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Transmission is bolted to the engine and held in place there's no possible way the input shaft could have gotten damaged from doing motor mounts. My bet is it's just a coincidence that it happened. I would verify your hydraulics are functioning properly, if everything appears to work properly, either the shift fork got bent or the throwout bearing is jamming on the support hub.

REAmemiya_fan

Yea I figured the input shaft being damaged was very unlikely, and I'm glad someone came in to say it. I was freaking out trying to think of a way it could happen.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Yeah the input shaft is well supported, it could be damaged by a massive failure and that's about it. My bet is it's hydraulic, or throw out.

REAmemiya_fan

With the age that these cars are, if the whole hydraulic system hasn't been replaced yet, might as well just go ahead and do that. Especially if the hydraulic fluid was not regularly flushed. New units can be easily sourced through RockAuto, or OEM. If going through RockAuto, I reccomend the SACHS replacements. I have them and never been a problem. Then go ahead and replace the clutch/pressure plate w/ throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Would be wise to have the flywheel resurfaced as well. Also it is easy to overlook the bushings in the shift linkage. The best solution to that would be to drain and flush that fluid, remove and inspect the shifter and the bushings. Simply replace them and check the return spring as well. Once you're all done, fill with your favorite synthetic fluid and tighten everything back down. You might also want to consider draining, flushing, and refilling the trans fluid with a good GL5 synthetic fluid. Check for bronze shavings on the drain plug as well, this indicates worn synchronizers, which will cause the trans not to change gears.

Since the OP was pretty vauge, this is the best advice I can offer. These are all the most common failure places in terms of not being able to shift properly or at all. Refreshing them will make a noticable difference.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

The clutch slave and fork are on the top of the transmission....when you jacked the engine up to replace the mounts you probably squished them both against the firewall. Have you tried bleeding the clutch slave yet?

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

^^I think K-tune has a good point. Make sure you didn't bend the fork or damage the slave.

Moksha

iTrader: (5)

So i bought some hydro clutch fluid because it seemed low.I had a my mopar buddy come over and pumped the clutch as i watched the resivoir. He said the clutch stuck to the floor he then pulled it up with his foot and now i have my clutch back.

So i believe it was the fluid was low.

thanks for the input guys she seems to be running fine

Wms10th

iTrader: (2)

You ain't done yet...your fluid was low because your clutch slave cylinder(or master cylinder, or both) is leaking...that's how the fluid gets out in the first place. They will need to be replaced. That fluid is not low at anytime unless it leaked out.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

That fluid isn't expendable. If it was low, that means some went somewhere. Somewhere outside of the system. Start looking for leaks.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

I cant believe in the 12 posts prior to this one, nobody said anything about this........

Moksha

iTrader: (5)

Roger. Ill check it out, all i know it was fine before i had swapped anything out.

But then again things do break..

REAmemiya_fan

Maybe you missed my last post..... You know, the one where I said to replace both the master and slave. I just didn't say they were leaking because, well, usually when things need replaced it is because they are faulty so I didn't want to be redundant. And yes it was a long post, but I don't just talk out of my ***. And trust me, I know what I am talking about with a good majority of manual trans topics, hence my sig.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

What? That you're an automotive student? You'll get a ton more credibility on here based on your posts (and experience) than saying you're going to school for it.

Thats like a guy telling me that he's an expert welder because he graduated from TWS. I'm a QA specialist for the navy... and I can definitely say that TWS can certainly teach you how NOT to weld!



I missed your post, anyway. Probably because it was too long.

REAmemiya_fan

I know what I'm talking about, I've done it many many times. And my teacher is an ASE master cert, so I don't think I'm being mislead at all.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

i agree... (10 year master tech.) reamemiya knows his mazda ****

REAmemiya_fan

If you were serious, then thank you.

If you were sarcastic, then I give up. lol.