i clean the BAC valve. Run voltage through it and all that. But after the car is after sitting for a while does not want to start!

I do NOT think that it is flodding, after it finally catches there is no abnormal amounts of smoke. But it wants to die right away again. Then i start it up again and again and it holds and runs run... when it's hot engine starts like no ones business!

Any IdeaS?!

 

have you done anything to the intake recently? have you checked the spark plugs for extreme carbon build-up? And exactly how cold is it where you are at right now?

 

Umm, not very cold Car is in heated garage.. Changed plugs a month ago....No intake work recently

 

Probably just low compression. Worn out engine. Not enough detail to tell exactly.

 

It sounds to me like just a cold-start stumble, not a blown engine. Rotaries don't generally like to be started cold. The biggest "cause" of this is vac leaks. Do some checking.

Brandon

 

Everyone seems to say that rotaries don't like being cold started. I have not seen any evidence of this. Tina (when I drove her in the winter) always starts on the first try and runs smoothly even when cold. My '78/'79 beater (carb'd) starts first try too. Hell, my '86 parts car started after sitting for 2 years (replaced fuel pump) on two year old gas. That was Feb. in Canada, so yes, it was quite cold.

All my experience has been that RX-7s have HOT starting problems, not cold starting problems.

 

Sounds to me like classic RX-7 flooding!
Try installing a fuel pump cut switch and I bet your problems will disappear. Don't assume you don't have any compression.

 

Did whatever you used to clean the BAC get sucked into the manifold? It could be causing an overy rich condition and not starting.

 

all it was, was a little wd40! AND IT IS NOT LOW COMPRESSSION.....Can a low compression engine bake the tires in 1st cake em in 2nd.....all this while gettin bent in 1st? Doesn't even have 40,000 km on it!

its not flodding. Because when it starts there is no smoke...just normal exhaust. It loves to be started when hot...turn key, boom on.

 

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Im having the same problems right now with my car DC350. I just put in a rebuild, so far on my suspect list is:


Fuel Injectors ( I wired in resistors but maybe they still dont work?)

TPS (its all fucked up)

BAC (problems go away when I unplug it?)

Ignition (timing could be off)

The guy installed a bleed off pipe (ghetto rigged) on the 2 main fuel lines which might be causing low pressure.

Im just gonna systematically test each and every component i guess

 

Rotaries most definitely don't like to be started cold. Due to the large surface area / volume ratio, their combustion temps are lower than that of boingers. (This is part of the reason that you should run very low octane in N/As). The little oil that rotaries recieve in the combustion chamber also lubricates less effectively when cold. Now, that's not to say that rotaries are like Diesels

Now, will a rotary run cold? Most definitely - mine will idle at 600 RPM every time when started stone cold (coolant temps < 50 degF). That's why I put "problems" in quotes - because often rotary cold-start problems are attributed to the engine, while it's usually a vacuum leak or leaky injectors, or a myriad of other problems.

Now, to fend off the pundits, yes I'm aware of the high rotary EGTs. This is due to the fact that there's not a nice cold valve and head in the way of the exhaust stream. I'm talking about combustion temps.

Brandon