GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

well after a couple of months working on my car (switching my EM and chassis harness to 88 T2 since the swap from an 86 n/a, installing damplifier, the turbo fuel pump, cleaned injectors ect.) its back together and ready to be started right? well i have this small problem, it wont turn over at all, turn the key and nothing! all of my accessories work (lights, turn signals, etc.) the starter worked before i switched everything and the wires are in much better condish, i looked over everything again and its all in order. is there anything else that might affect this?

Help?
Sean

whereiscarmensandiego

did u hook up the spade connector to the starter?

totallimmortal

I's guessing you already did but check all fuses, and maybe try to send voltage directly to the starter to test it using jumper cables.

Edit: forgot to add, burt out the voltmeter

coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like you need to start tracing the electricity to the starter. The first thing to do is to make sure the starter is physically connected down below. If those connections are right, I'd move to the relay. See if it is getting 12v when the key is turned to start. Make sure it is getting battery voltage on the high amp side all of the time. Does it click when you turn the key? If no voltage is coming from the switch to the relay, trace it back until you find what component it stops at. BTW, the starter relay stuff is in the cpu in the drivers side kick panel. Refer to fsm.

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

check check and double check your ecu/ realted nearby connections..guarentee you forgot one or more..

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

it clicks when you turn the key, and the connector to the spade is only reading 1.5v and i know i need 12v to engage the starter so what the hell is wrong?

Napsterfreak15

I did a swap and my rx tried to start right when i hooked the battery up. I tried another Ecu and it solved my problem.

coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

I had a car that did this. You could try turning the key several times and eventually it would work. It was a bad relay in the CPU. I think there is a write up on replacing the relay if you search. I just replaced my CPU with another one I got for $15.

Double check all of your connections to make sure nothing is loose before spending money on another part though. What spade are you getting 2.5v on?

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Could also be your neural safety switch.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

how could it be the nurtral saftey switch? more info?

o and i tested my starter switch for continuity and everything checks out except i cant get the single wire labeled as ST to get continuity to L,E, K1,or K2.
ST doesent stand for starter does it?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Your battery is dead. Recharge or replace.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

if only that were true seeing as it has full charge and is brand new ***Cough Cough N00b statement Cough Cough***

and dont get mad at that statement i know there's no way you could tell what condish its in, and im just messing around

Chris Boots

Since your car is an 86 I don't think you have a safety neutral switch (clutch has to be down in order to crank) BUT if you do you are certainly going to see it right away. I had this problem on my 88. I just jumped it with one wire (but that means i don't need the clutch down to start it anymore) The switch looks like a button at basically the top of the clutch lever, there will be two black wires that clip into the switch also white connector. Its easy to just unplug the connector and jump the two wires that go to the switch. Now there [I]are[I] two clutch switches though. One sends a signal to the ecu and the other switch (if you have it) goes to the starter. It won't hurt anything if you jump the wrong switch but it certainly won't help you either and if you on accident leave the ecu switch jumped it may make it interesting to set the idle etc when you get the engine running. Other than that you might as well check the starter to see if it works. I didn't know the ECU has anything to do with engaging the starter (the starter sends a signal to the ECU though to tell it that you are cranking, mine's disconnected/ switched so I can start it easy when its hot) anyway, if the ECU has anything to do with anything to make it crank you can do a test crank with your old NA ECU in it and see if it cranks. Its probably something simple like you said just check and double check all your connections and keep us up to date.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

#1: its an 88 T2 if you read it says i did a swap
#2: would a lack of clutch pressure be a problem in starting? i just noticed that im leaking clutch fluid near the release cylinder

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

If mits clicking, the battery is probably dead... Even if it's a new battery the shelf could have drained it, or sitting out. Do all your dash light dim when the starter clicks?

Try Jumpstarting it.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

O by months i mean about a year so im hating this car now and my incompatance to fix it!!! and i still cant find how to fix it!!!

the clock dims but i think thats all and i checked the battery with a volt meter it read above 12.00v

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

How about the connections on the battery. If they are corroded with that green crap or rusty the starter will do that. So its worth a look.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Have you tried to jump start it yet?

The battery probably doesnt have enough *** to sustain.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

i checked the battery with a volt meter it read above 12.00v and im just gonna use my charger to charge the battery. and i added new battery terminals and cleaned the cables there all corrosion free

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

should be seeing 12.6v on that bat.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

yup just double checked and its reading 12.62v

Ex-Eg-Driver

iTrader: (1)

Maybe your starter is done?

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

It may read 12.6 V but it still might not have enough *** behind it to start the car. What does it drop to when you crank it?

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

nope i ran a wire straight from the battery to that solenoid/spade and it started to turn over i think its my ignition switchi tested my starter switch for continuity and everything checks out except i cant get the single wire labeled as ST to get continuity to L,E, K1,or K2. the FSM says to replace if you cant get continuity!!
?ST doesent stand for starter does it?

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

it drops to 12.18v and then i looked again after and it was at 12.30v and climbing