finishline

iTrader: (13)

so i finished porting my wastegate and was making sure everything was torqued on well and what not.
well, it seems that while torquing on the bolt that holds the oil line under the turbo,
i snapped it due to too much force.

so now i have more than half of the threading stuck in there.
i'd hate to run my car with only 1 bolt holding that oil line under the turbo while it leaks.

any solutions? i was told to drill it out? any others?

thanks.


if anyone wants to know, it's an S5 turbo.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Definitely don't run the engine with only 1 bolt. It will leak badly.

You'll need to drill it and use a remover tool.

finishline

iTrader: (13)

a buddy of mine was showing me this to extract the bolt and what not.

http://www.aldn.com/drillout/

never tried it before or had to settle for such a thing, but is this what i'm ideally aiming for?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Yes, but those look too big. The screws for the oil drain should be M6.

vato2000taco

iTrader: (1)

yes try to drill it and use a sbrew extractor and if no luck find a really good welder and weld another smaaaalllllll bolt to the broken bolt and back it out that way i had to do this to my lim ( lower intake manifold)

finishline

iTrader: (13)

yikes. i hope all will go well with extracting it.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

it wont
it will be a pain
have you at least tried using a vice grip? or is it flush?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

oil drain is M8

finishline

iTrader: (13)

it's pretty much in there. nothing sticking out from the hole. only the other side that's against the middle part of the turbo which has no room to work with.

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

So take the turbo off the car and take it apart to get more room.

afpreppie04

iTrader: (5)

I had this same thing happen to me last week, except with the coolant feed line stud. I didn't have enough sticking out to grab with vice grips or anything. Ended up pulling the LIM and taking the whole thing to a machine shop. $15ish bucks later i have it back and ready to put in. IMO well worth the money, I hate dealing with broken studs/bolts.

finishline

iTrader: (13)

well, did a lil research online and found this website.

never really though how left-hand drill bits would actually help.

http://www.madelectrical.com/worksho...en-bolts.shtml

i guess this will be my first method of taking it out.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

if it is flush - there is a certain type of screw extractor

the one where you use the bit on it, then it expands into an outer washer looking thingy - and the more you drill into it, the more the outer washer expands and holds on the bolt...

i doubt you need something that crazy for a turbo oil drain... but that can remove some really stuck bolts!

take the turbo out and try to do it - that way if you screw it up - you can still helicoil it and it would still be usable....

or just buy a used turbo.... not sure how much they are now but they used to be 50-75 a pop.... it is pretty cheap to blow them up and bolt a new one on!

GTU_FAN

Damn it's been so long since I've posted all my old threads are gone... but I had an epic battle with a busted downpipe stud and the only thing I could do with that one is use a full package of titanium plated drill bits drilling the sucker out. Took hours.

finishline

iTrader: (13)

ah, i shall keep that in mind...

if not stock turbo... maybe time for an upgrade? psh, yea right.

i didn't port that wastegate for no reason.

mo_hish

Hm, I'm actually thinking about buying an FC with a broken exhaust manifold bolt... I would be getting it pretty cheap because of it... I could just take it to a mechanic and he'll be able to take care of this relatively cheap right?

ATRON3000

Mo_hish... a good muffler shop should be able to help you out

Paul Spickard

I snapped a bolt on the metal fitting on the radiator house it took about ten minutes to drill it out very carfully and spin a tap in there.

finishline

iTrader: (13)

oh shoot, forgot to update the thread.

ended up buying that bolt extractor tool by craftsman (the only thing i can find at Sears).

worked like a charm.


i ended up snapping the stud too for the coolant hardline from the turbo that connects under the BAC,

so i just used vice grips to twist it out, and now have a bolt of the same size substituting it.

i need to be easy on these parts. maybe invest in a baby torque wrench or some sort.

thanks everybody.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

I've had good luck with easy out bits. Just be very careful to drill the pilot hole as straight as possible. Center punch the broken stud and use a very fresh very sharp very small drill bit to start your pilot hole. Drill in about 1/4". Step up the drill bit sizes until you can fit an easy out in the stud. Make sure the easy out goes into the stud as far as you can fit it without drilling through the stud. You want to give the easy out as much "bite" into the stud as possible. This is important for very tight studs.