Small crack in block.. am i screwed?
03-08-06, 09:18 PM
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Small crack in block.. am i screwed?
ok so i finally got some time to take the tranny off my s5 tii engine. So when i went to take it off i noticed that one of the bolts must have been cross threaded into the block and split the very thin metal surrounding it. I've included a picture were the bolt goes on the transmission but it is the area on the block around the bolt that has split. It didn't seem like such a big deal but i though i would post to make sure.
Last edited by driftin8ez; 03-08-06 at 09:32 PM.
03-08-06, 09:35 PM
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ok here are some actual photos... Is my engine destroyed? oh i thought i would post a pic of the car before it goes under the knife.
Last edited by driftin8ez; 03-08-06 at 09:39 PM.
03-08-06, 11:40 PM
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Don't think that cracked from someone cross threading it, but rather from detonation. If I were you, I would just replace the rear iron then risking the crack reaching the oil passange over time. Once that happends.. you will have a mess of oil in the engine bay along with a trashed engine.
Just replace the iron, and two coolant seals. Pull the engine, put it on a stand facing down, (pully close to the floor, rear end up) and take out the tention bolts in squence. Swap the rear iron, change the statationary gear and oil pressure regulator into your new iron. Replace the two coolant seals and the oil-ring on the oil passage. Do not spin the engine when you have the rear iron out. Reassemble and and you should be fine.
Everything shouldn't cost you more then 100$. 40 for seals and o-ring and leaves 60$ for a rear iron.
Just replace the iron, and two coolant seals. Pull the engine, put it on a stand facing down, (pully close to the floor, rear end up) and take out the tention bolts in squence. Swap the rear iron, change the statationary gear and oil pressure regulator into your new iron. Replace the two coolant seals and the oil-ring on the oil passage. Do not spin the engine when you have the rear iron out. Reassemble and and you should be fine.
Everything shouldn't cost you more then 100$. 40 for seals and o-ring and leaves 60$ for a rear iron.
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03-08-06, 11:54 PM
#8
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by trainwreck517
Don't think that cracked from someone cross threading it, but rather from detonation. If I were you, I would just replace the rear iron then risking the crack reaching the oil passange over time. Once that happends.. you will have a mess of oil in the engine bay along with a trashed engine.
Just replace the iron, and two coolant seals. Pull the engine, put it on a stand facing down, (pully close to the floor, rear end up) and take out the tention bolts in squence. Swap the rear iron, change the statationary gear and oil pressure regulator into your new iron. Replace the two coolant seals and the oil-ring on the oil passage. Do not spin the engine when you have the rear iron out. Reassemble and and you should be fine.
Everything shouldn't cost you more then 100$. 40 for seals and o-ring and leaves 60$ for a rear iron.
Just replace the iron, and two coolant seals. Pull the engine, put it on a stand facing down, (pully close to the floor, rear end up) and take out the tention bolts in squence. Swap the rear iron, change the statationary gear and oil pressure regulator into your new iron. Replace the two coolant seals and the oil-ring on the oil passage. Do not spin the engine when you have the rear iron out. Reassemble and and you should be fine.
Everything shouldn't cost you more then 100$. 40 for seals and o-ring and leaves 60$ for a rear iron.
See it all the time, N/A's and TII's. Think N/A's detonate?
I see it all the time when torque specs aren't followed and someone over torques that bolt. Usually the piece cracks right off.
Take the car to a welder, have it welded, chase the threads with a tap, and reinstall the bolt with antiseize on it, to the proper torque spec.
I can't believe anyone would suggest taking a motor apart for something with such a trivial fix.
03-09-06, 10:48 AM
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Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by trainwreck517
Don't think that cracked from someone cross threading it, but rather from detonation.
Please don't post if you don know.
If I were you, I would just replace the rear iron then risking the crack reaching the oil passange over time.
Just replace the iron, and two coolant seals. Pull the engine, put it on a stand facing down, (pully close to the floor, rear end up) and take out the tention bolts in squence. Swap the rear iron, change the statationary gear and oil pressure regulator into your new iron. Replace the two coolant seals and the oil-ring on the oil passage. Do not spin the engine when you have the rear iron out. Reassemble and and you should be fine.
Originally Posted by GodSquadMandrake
I would get it welded if possible.
03-09-06, 12:59 PM
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OH,YOU TOUCHED MY TRALALA
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i had that happen to my TII except it completly broke off.....and i drove it till it blew up. another 6,000 HARD miles. dont worry, it will be fine. if your that concerned about it, get a smaller bolt and nut with a fue washers and go that route.....i just left it alone, i knew i was going to blow my motor anyway, but you have what? 4 or 5 other bolts holding your tranny to the motor. from personal experience dont worry about it. hope this helps.
EJ
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