Is this the only way you can make yourself feel special, by insulting me? I mean, come on all I did was state facts, and because of this you find it appealing to resort to insulting, I guess I proved you wrong on something, why else would you get so pissed so easily?

 

Sorry for comments I am sick of people "bashing" on rotaries

 

I didn't bash on rotaries, I simply defended v8's by calling them easier to obtain parts for, usually easier to get more power from, also usually cheaper to get more HP out of. I'm building a T2 myself because I'm fascinated by them. But jeez, v8's aren't as bad as you guys think!

 

Well cause we (rotary people) are asking for a fair comparison, that's all.

I would like someone to show me a n/a 600bhp 350 chev and how much it costs, I have seen them and know how much they are.

 

I've got a 600hp 327 if you want me to take a picture, as far as cost, $500 (hehe) Purchased from a late model race car running off 93 octane gas. My dad had a dyno sheet on it somewhere, but since he's no longer with me I can't ask to find it. I'll dig for it and see what I can find. Also, i ripped the engine apart and it was completely clean, no bent rods/bad valves/springs/etc, only thing it could use is a paint job.

 

No one said they are bad !

It is a case of when v8 people come on and get their back up about how much more reliable their conversion is that pisses me, then you get a person who has been with rotaries for a while coming on and saying the same thing.

I have a different experience, and so do MANY others, just they are sick and tired of trying to defend the RE all the time...we know they are good, for the reasons I have stated.

They are cheap (in Aust) and reliable, so they are the engine I choose

 

I live in michigan, I mean, what else could you expect from me!?

 

You see, the thing is, a person can come to me and get this (600bhp) package made and set up ALL the time.

Finding a one off 600bhp 327 from a race car is a different story....

I would like you or someone to show me a n/a 350 chev package that meets the requirements stated long ago, i.e reliability, streetability, economy.

Then I will sell my RE and put one of those engines in it, untill then I will stick with my "expensive" 13B

 

fair enough :p

 

If you sell it, make sure you let me know, I'm looking for an engine!

 

The whole car is for sale !

But I am keeping my Peripheral Port turbo .....that will never be for sale

 

Damnit, I don't have room for another vehicle, 5 is enough!

 

The place I am moving into has only room for ONE car ! hence the sale , my next place in the near future will have safe car space, so I will never have to sell my rotaries ( want a few!) again !

Oh well, priorities first I suppose.

Next place, will have BIG workshop, hoist, dyno room ............

 

Good, you can fix my v8 for me when it breaks!

 

I will always miss going to 8K on my old 13bt, my v8 is not prehistoric,
hope i'm not throwing my reply in too late....just stumbled across this thread..

Chris, just wanted you to know that you were my 'inspiration' for my swap.

My tII did not get good mileage....it was average(16-21) after my rebuild about 14-18 before the rebuild....it also liked coolant

I've spent about $3k on my swap....sold the origional parts from the rex for $2K, so here is a pic of my 1K engine....

i truly consider my 7 an asset to the rx7 comunity, i have never gotten more attention from my car then after the engine swap. when people inquire about my car i get to pass on the facts about what makes the rex so great.

i will be conservative in my numbers, i am expecting about 280hp and 350lbs torque.

i build my rex because of the challenge(and yes this engine swap was a challenge) and for more performance FOR MY SITUATION, NO ONE ELSES.

 

You can't bolt a mazda 5 speed up to an LT1 and if you could you wouldnt want to. The only tranny that will work with a 3 rotor is one that is made to bolt up to a 13b. The TII, and FD tranny can only handle something along the lines of 400lb ft of torque reliably. Otherwise you would have to spend major cash to get an HKS tranny or something of the sort. An LT1 has lots of torque, but you can bolt a t56 up to it and sleep sound.

 

Well a 600hp small block could easily be acheived with Forced induction or Nitrous, but that wouldn't be fair would it? There are many ways to message 600hp out of a N/A small block, but people dont usually do it because it is not as cost effecient or reliable as forced induction or Nitrous. I can't come up with a formula for your 9500$ 600hp small block but it can and has been done. I have seen a few small blocks in florida that rev to 10k RPM driven on the streets daily. I would imagine they have 500+hp at the least. Handicaps aside, how about a turbo intercooled fuel injected small block against your 8k dollar budget rotary? It would far more cost effecient and could be done for under 9500 dollars to. Is your freinds bridge port putting that power to the ground, or is it fly wheel HP? And I have to doubt your 600hp formula. I want a dyno sheet, and a list of every part that you would need. I cant beleive this "turbo system 4500$, IC and pipes 1500$" stuff. For the sake of everyone rotary, what kind of turbo would you use to produce a reliable and streetable 600hp. And what is being done to the motor? Is it a 13b REW or a 13bt? And if it is a 13Bt what are you doing to address the flexing housings at that HP level? And how on earth can you get all that is neccesary to handle that kind of HP done at such a cheap price. I want more details man. I wont even Elaborate on a 600 hp 350 build up because I dont want to give a vague discription that makes it look easy, and leaves a bunch of stuff out. I want fuel injector sizing, what ecu you would use, 3mm apex seals? Titanium seals? Spearco? Greddy? Garret?
HKS? Haltech? Motech? So I can come to you and get a 600hp rotary for 9500$ So it should come with a 24K mile waurantee since it would live to 60K miles correct. Cause if it does, you will either have lots of money, or lots of lawyers. Sorry if I come of as an ***, I just need more details.

 

ok just toi combine threads a bit here

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=44799


UHM heres a question. Mainly just to play devils advocate while I am waiting on a stripe set to repair.

IF his V8 is only 130lbs heavier than it was with the 13b, what would a LS1 do in a Rx7 being as its over 220lbs lighter than the cast iron blocked engine he put in? wouldn't that actually make an RX7 rear biased as far as weight goes? also the extra mass being higher would not really matter since its actually less weight over all.

I asked this in the other thread

 

BogusFile has some good points......Rice Racer.....where is your hard evidence? not to bash your points but it would be nice to see some pics/dyno sheets/parts lists.......

 

buwah, hahahahahaha, what a **** face

 

Send me an e-mail and I will be glad to quote you on that Exact set up !

riceracing@ozemail.com.au

You can visit my web page to find more details or do a search on this forum to find ALL the performance data of my car. If you are serious or you just want some advise on what to do I will be more than glad to help you or anyone else who is in doubt as to what CAN be achieved with these engines.

Look forward to hearing from you

 

Bogus file -

Rebuilt Cosmo 13B REW, ported, 3mm alloy composite 2 piece seals with single springs, dowelled - $5000
Garrett TA45 turbo. .84 front, 1.22 rear - $2000
turbosmart 45mm external wastegate - $700
custom front mount intercooler - $1500
custom exhaust manifold - $800
custom intercooler piping - $300
2 x 550cc primary injectors - with the engine
2 x 1650cc secondary injectors - $500
Haltech E6K tuned by HITman - $2000
T2 coil packs - $500
1 x carter low pressure high volume fuel pump feeding a 3 litre surge tank and then into 2 x bosch mercedes fuel pumps rated at around 4 litres/minute EACH - About $1000
RE Amemiya twin plate clutch and lightened flywheel - $1500 second hand ($3000 brand new)
T2 gear box with custom made quick shift kit - $700

Here are some pictures of my car:

Turbo -

Intercooler -

Engine bay -

Dyno sheet from last weekend:



On 22 psi and pump fuel my friend. And that was on a dyno dynamics dyno. On a Dynojet dyno, that figure is equal to around 500rwhp. ON PUMP FUEL! With C16 I could get that figure up to close on 600rwhp on a dynojet dyno!

I drove the car to that dyno shootout, it was 280km away and the dyno was at around 1900ft elevation. I got to the event on 30 litres of petrol. The car is nice in traffic (a bit bumpy with the twin plate clutch) and does not overheat. It has a standard 85 RX7 radiator if you are wondering.

And the grand total of my engine not including labour to fit everything? Around $17000AUD! Jesus, thats cheaper than Rice Racing! :p

How'd ya like them apples huh??

 

17,000.00 AUD = 8,796.15 USD

and AJC13B, you have any info on that "quick shift kit" for the T2 tranny?

 

Node - Thanks! From memory it was a little over $300AUD...

 

AJC13b, nice dyno. A far cry from the 600+ hp Rice_Racing claims for the money, however. Maybe you need to talk to him about cheap power. It's also about $6000US more than I spent on my conversion and engine. Also, what's the torque output? How does the torque curve look? Is it flat? Have you got 60k miles on your engine yet?

Rice_racing and AJC13b, you guys are in Australia. The cost to build up SBC and SBF engines is outrageous there. If you followed my link in the other thread, you'd see the cost of cams, springs, etc here for them is dirt cheap. Under $200US for something Rice-Racing claimed cost $2000. Same goes for all parts. The single cheapest engine family to buy speed parts for in the US is the SBC. With a few billion of them produced between 1955 and now, finding good used engines to build from is not only easy, it's often free. A free (or $150) SBC with a $600 PAW or Summit rebuild kit (crank, con rods, pistons, cam, bearings, gasket set, etc) is a 400+ hp engine. Fresh. You simply can't beat that here for power per dollar. A 400hp crate engine, all new, wil only run $4000. That's a far cry from that $17kAus rotary.

OTOH, costs for rotary stuff seems to be a bit cheaper there than it is here.

http://www.superchevyperformance.com/12496769.asp

385 hp. 385 lb ft of torque. $4k. With a $500 cam/rocker kit, that's 430 hp... And the torque is much more than the rotary. Considering it's an aluminum head engine, it will be rather light (not as light as a rotary, but not really much heavier than a full on turbo/IC 13B).

Guys, we're not bashing on the rotary. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. I like rotary engines, and have owned many (and installed them in non-rotary cars). But here in the US, the swap can be a cost effective way of mating large reliable power with an attractive, excellent chassis on a budget. The fact is that the SBC and SBF V8s are time tested, virtually bulletproof engines with huge aftermarket followings. And the 2nd gen RX7 is attractive, and considerably better built than any Camaro or Mustang, and has a better chassis for cornering as well as being lighter (at least in coupe form...those 'verts are heavy). If a dead RX and a cheap V8 seem the perfect combo for a sports car enthusiast on a budget, then you shouldn't bash them for that choice. None of them bash you for choosing rotary.