nah, I just thought about it on my old 93 probe gt and have been doing it since, but now i'm interested, what is option magazine, and where can i get it? never seen it before.

 

Option video is like the super street of japan, except 1000 times better cos they have a mag. and monthly videos that come out. and some times those videos can so you some pretty neat *****.

 

would this toggle swith work? because i have 1 and cant figure out wut to do with it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Missi...spagenameZWDVW

 

itll work like a champ ill post some pictures up of my set up

 

 

here are some picturessss

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wooo alll ahhhh
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wow, that wiring looks like total and complete ***, you know you could have wired it THROUGH the firewall and hide all the wires.
BUT, im not going to be mean, just post a pic, it makes me laugh just thinking about it!
is called, drunked/retarded eye mod.
i dont remember whos car it is, but w/e, pm me if there is a problem

peace

 

im not gonna lie it really does i just couldnt find a spot to run the wires through the fire wall, and i wanted to be sure it was going to work. any suggestions on where i can run the wires through the firewall? picture mebe?

 

There are so many things wrong with that wiring job....

First and foremost, you need to run the wires through some kind of grommit on the firewall. Just get a flashlight and look long the firewall for the spare rubber grommits, or fish it through an existing harness grommit.

2nd, electrical tape should NEVER be used to insulate electrical connections. Use proper adhesive lined heat shrink tubing after soldering the joint.

3rd, you need to protect those wires with some kind of wire loom.

4th, you should not be switching high currents with a switch directly. Switch a relay and use the relay contacts to switch high currents.

5th, you just cut the stock wiring harness with no regard as to how you would reverse this modification. At least spade terminals are easy to undo...

6th, I hope that you use the fuse box cover when you aren't taking pictures. If not, then water and dirt will quickly corrode the terminals. Use dielectric grease to prevent this.

 

Man, thats a LOT of work just to end up with a crappy wiring job and IMHO retarded looking headlights. The appearance is my opinion of course, but, do you think it was worth it?

 

thanks arron cake. i corrected the wiring but theres some things i didnt understand.
1.adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
2.Switch a relay and use the relay contacts to switch high currents, what type or relay would you suggest.
3. yes my fuse box cover is on when im not doing poor wiring jobs. but hey im 18 and i just got this car so imma noob, of couse imma do **** at first. thank again for the help full tips on how to correct it.

 

cutting the arm is the way i have heard. the motor isnt just up and down. the motor moves in a complete circle. when you turn it on . it goes from 6 o'clock to 12. then off is 12 to 6. one complete clockwize rotation. it hasto go completely up to go back down. unless, aparently. you cut the rod, so i have read.

 

ok, but even so, why the F would you cut the rods, unless its a F around car (that you dont drive at night AT ALL) and if it isnt the primary car. that was just a dumb comment. i do love your headlight conversion though, dont have the cash but if i did i would purchase a set from either you of the other dude offering them.

peace

 

Instead of electrical tape, use heat shrink tubing. You slide it over the solder joint and then heat it up with a heat gun or flame. The tubing shrinks around the joint and the adhesive inside seals it up.

Just a standard 20A automotive relay.

 

I did search and none of them explain how to do it the way I want to..

I want the lights fully up when on and when u turn them off they fold down to the sleepy look.. (which means they dont completly close)
thats how I want them to work..

but then again I have changed my mind on this it was only to see how it would look