background info:
- N/A to TII swap
- had TII motor w/ N/A drivetrain

goal:
- swap drivetrain to TII


everything's basically in
(except for a clutch problem i have - seems like something's up with the fork or throw out bearing but that's beside the point. and yes my clutch was put in the right way)
and can't seem to start the car because the starter spins by itself when the battery is connected.
used 2 different starters but they both did the same thing.



i did my best searching, but couldn't find any threads similar to my problem.

just for reference, can you guys review over of how everything's connected to the starter?

much help is appreciated. thanks.

 

so when you connect the battery the starter spins? sounds like you put the tiny cable that comes off the starter..and the power to the starter.. on the same bolt. ive done this before and received the same result. To clarify, there is a ground that goes under the mounting bolt that holds the starter to the transmission, but i am refering to the actual starter motor.

 

yes, that's exactly what i did.


hmm i'm actually done working on my car for tonight, but i'll definitely look into that tomorrow.

thanks.

 

that's the ground the battery, right?
it's held down by the nut on the front side of the starter i believe...

 

stock it was on the long bolt that holds the starter to the transmission...but it can go on either of the 2 mounting bolts.

 

you have the cable on the Wrong 12mm Nut.The Harness has a Mounting bracket that holds the Harness onto the Big Bolt of the starter.It goes through the Rear iron of the engine and through the Bell housing,and is used For Ground purposes.There is a Small wire that goes to the Solenoid(female spade connector) then there is another wire that connects to One of the 12 mm Nuts on the starter..NOW,If you hook the Darn thing up to the WRONG one,it will Spin the Starter when you apply 12 volts on it.BUT,if you put it on the Nut that the Wire SHOULD be on(lol),it will only get 12 volts when the Key is switched to Start,and the Solenoid gets the 12 volts needed to Roll the starter over.

 

The upside is that now you know how to jumper the starter solenoid if you ever compression test a motor that's been pulled.

Even if you didn't mean to learn how...

 

well, both previous problems i had, the clutch and starter, are finally fixed.

the problem was that the clutch fork wasn't placed in right... seems that we didn't take our time and put that metal pin that clips on the inside of the bellhousing.
so after dropping the tranny, we undid our mistake, and the tranny mated easily with the motor.
same goes as far as putting the slave cylinder (since last time, the clutch fork problem was there so it was hard.)
as for the starter, it's just having the "+" on the wrong bolt.



so as of now, after putting the tranny and driveshaft back on, exhaust and everything, we ran into 2 more problems...

1) now the slave cylinder leaks where the rubber boot covers that metal rod that pushes against the clutch fork.
other than that, the clutch is working fine, pedal feels the way its supposed to... but i feel it slowly loses pressure due to the leaking. just drips faster when stepped on it.

2) tranny is hard to shift when the car's running (we did a simulation drive on the jack stands).
i'd have to put almost full force just to shift gears. as far as shifting when the car's off, it's fine.
then again, i haven't done my part to check if the tranny oil level is good.
i'll do that later after school...


any ideas would help. thank a plenty.

 

You should rebuild the slave cylinder. It only takes 5 minutes and you can pick up the rebuild kit from Mazdatrix.

 

rebuild both the master and slave if you are doing one... gotta do the other.

 

Well if the tranny isn't lubed properly I suppose it might be harder to shift

When the cars off the tranny is easy to shift?

 

how about just "replace" the slave, quit being a cheap ***

 

bish.

 

i was told that i can just buy a slave cylinder from my local parts store.

what do you guys say?

because i'm leaning towards that.

 

Stop being cheap.

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=41-920C-F044

 

if i can dig up some money, i'll go to mazdatrix.

 

have you pulled the shifter out? (double check that everything is in there)

 

A slave rebuild kit at NAPA is less than $15. It takes about 5 minutes to do. Kit has a new spring, piston, seal and boot.

 

update: reason leaking - rubber line before slave cylinder has a crack

found that out in the process of trying to take off the slave cylinder.

brb, gonna finish replacing the line.

 

i say just junk it and quit wasting your time on that hazardous waste

 

I was going to buy a new slave cylinder from Mazdatrix, but they didn't have any in stock. You'll be fine with a rebuild, but Icemark is right, I forgot to tell you that if you replace one thing, you might as well replace it all. A rebuild kit for the slave cylinder should be about $15, steel braided clutch line ~$20, and a new master cylinder ~$30. It'll be worth it in the end.

 

well, replaced the cylinder with the autozone slave cylinder even though it wasn't the problem.
same goes with the clutch line... replaced it with my leftover line from the N/A slave cylinder.

all is good now as far as the clutch pedal and shifting...

didn't have time to replace the tranny oil but i do think it's low since there's a slight resistance when trying to shift.


thanks for all your guys' input.

i'll probably have this thread closed when it's finally on the road.
pretty much done for tonight since i haz hw to do.
slapping on the calipers and replacing the tranny oil is what i have planned tomorrow.

cheers.

 

I'm pretty sure you did already, but make sure those calipers aren't seized and the rubber boots aren't ripped.

 

hahaha and i was gonna post the price too when i made my comment