So my s5 has been slowly leaking clutch fluid out and i got around looking and it looks like its coming from the slave cylinder.

Now does anyone know if the s4 and s5 are interchangeable?
Ive got a spare s4 slave lying around and am curious if i can just swap em out

If anyone knows or has an idea let me know

Thanks

 

All 2nd gen NA slaves are interchangeable, so yes.
All 2nd gen turbo slaves are interchangeable, so yes.

It's win-win.

 

But just to add that N/A and Turbo slaves are different(mounting wise),so you can't use a TII slave on an NA trans..and vice versa.

 

you can, but you have to adjust the slave rod length .. else a NA unit will ride the turbo clutch
and vice versa may need lengthening as clutch will need to be floored to shift

NB.. the detail change is in the positions of the mounting lugs on side of the slave.. and the throw rod lengths

 

sweet thanks guys

 

Instead of starting a new post ill just ask on this one.

Ive changed the slaves out and when i try to bleed the clutch system the only time fluid comes out is when i have the bleeder unscrewed and having somebody pump the pedal.

No fluid or air comes out while somebody pumps and i loosen the screw as the fsm recommends.

and the clutch pedal is even worse. Whoever is pushing the pedal has to pull it back up manually to push it back in...

Im stuck and have no idea what to do next

Any ideas?

 

So im just going to replace the master and slave so i can eliminate the two of those problems. Ill let ya guys know what i come up with

 

Not that replacing the cylinders is a bad thing, but I think you were just having bleeding issues before and may well again with the new stuff.

 

the new slave requires equalising before it will bleed properly... problem is often worse when its the master end you swap

little trick is to grab a second master lid.. punch a hole in it and put an airline fitting on ( or bike pump )

be sure there is LESS than 5 psi in the compressor,, and use it to squeeze fluid through to the slave bleeder

once flow is established without air,, it should bleed normally... if not the new slave or the old master is faulty

 

OKay so i must be retareded or i dont know how to read the fsm..

Will somebody please help me out and tell me how to bleed the clutch system properly?

I was in the garage for like forty five minutes trying to bleed the **** and it did this

- id pump the clutch and pull it back up with my hand very fast and i could feel it build up pretty good pressure and once i pushed it mostly all the way it would lose the pressure and retract down all the way to the floor...

I tried over building up the pressure getting out and lossening the bleeder screw and it seemed to work and i could see the resivour going down hair by hair.

But when i stopped pumping rapidly and slowly pushed all the way down to the floor it lost all the pressure and im back to square one.\

Ive got to be doing something wrong here...

 

Could be a leeky or rusted bleeder. Although it does take many pumps and holds to get the air out .

 

Also the soft hose there tends to leak at the crimp point

 

Try this, it's especially helpful if you're doing it alone...
Get a long- @4'- piece of clear tubing that fits snugly on the bleeder screw.
Fit one end to the bleeder, hold the tube up and slowly add about a foot or so of brake fluid into the open end, then attach the hose (I use the hood) so the end is as high as it will go.
Now crack the bleed nipple open and slowly depress the clutch pedal a few times.
Leave the bleeder open.
If you're lucky, you'll see the fluid in the tube begin to get sucked back into the slave, if so, refill the tube as necessary so the slave can't suck air.
You should be getting a more normal pedal feel, even though there's still air in the system.

If the fluid ISN'T getting pulled in, don't despair...just wait.
Leave the bleed port open and walk away, let gravity and physics do the work for you.
Ultimately the air bubbles will make their way to an end of the circuit, either the MC end (where they bleed out into the reservoir) or the slave end where you'll see them rise through the fluid filled tube on the bleed screw.

Either way, once you get pedal all the way through the stroke, you're home free.
You can finish bleed as normal.

BTW, this technique also works on brakes, in fact, even better because you can unbolt the calipers and suspend them higher than the MC.
Don't push the brake pedal while hung like this because there's nothing to restrain the pistons, but gravity will remove most of the air in a fresh brake overhaul without a single pump.

 

okay im pulling my hair out now...

Is there any other issues i could be having? Ive tried everything and its still not working...

I would glady buy someone some beers and pay for your gas as well as lunch if they could help me diagnose/ point me in the right direction...

clokker*cough*cough*

 

You have a PM.

 

can a 1986-1992 non-turbo clutch slave cylinder be used on a 1985 rx-7 gsl-se ?

i don't have the factory workshop manual for the 1986-1992 so i can't find out the inner diameter.

maybe i could just interchange the internals ?

i have searched and can't find the info i need.

 

so ... i know i may sound absolutely retarded here, but i just want to be absolutely sure. the T2 unit will not physically bolt to the N/A tranny?

and the reason i ask is because i installed new a master and slave and they both installed just fine. I've bled the living **** out of the system and somehow the stroke of the slave is not long enough. it will move the fork, but not enough. the pedal still sticks to the floor. so now that i'm considering other ideas, i'm just wondering if it's possible that they sent me a T2 slave instead of an N/A.

 

Were you able to bleed the slave ??
That needs to be done.
Long shot but.... if you couldn't bleed it, pull out the slave, unscrew the bleeder valve and check if a hole is there. Believe it or not, I bought one with NO hole. When I unscrewed it...WTF .
And this is from NAPA.

As for the difference, the TII is much longer and mounting points are different on cylinder.

 

yeah. i did. i bench bled the master and then bled the slave. everything appears to have gone well in that regard, but the damn thing just isn't pushing the fork enough and i think it maxed out the stroke, so if it is indeed the right part, then i'm officially stumped now.


i saw a reference to one of those slaves without a bleed screw. as i have no intentions of getting one, i wasn't interested enough to ask how it works.

 

I think you have the wrong slave . The TII is much longer.
I never trust counter clerks. You have your old
slave?

 

i don't trust them either. at any rate, i bought this from RockAuto (over 2 years ago). i'm pretty sure i tossed the old one ages ago, but i guess i'll check my garage tomorrow just in case.

 

Ack...nevermind. You're using a spare slave . I thought you bought a new one. I'll check for a comparison pic of NA and TII slave.
Check back within few minutes.

It's a damn simple piece. If it is leaking , it will be obvious.

 

no. it is a new one. i just never installed it until recently.

 

NA on left and TII on right

This pic should tell you which you have

 

well, looking at your photo they do share a bolt pattern and mine looks more like the T2 one. so i think you have solved the mystery for me. thank you very much!