Slave Clutch Cylinder - Broken Bolts
05-20-05, 12:15 PM
#1
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Slave Clutch Cylinder - Broken Bolts
I just replaced the master cylinder without any problems. When I tried to do the slave cylinder; I found out the previous owner had broken one of the bolts and he had just glued on the head of the bolt. I tried taking off the other bolt, but it's not giving. I am afraid to apply too much force on it and break it off. My question is: Is it possible to drill out the broken bolt without taking down the transmission? Has anyone done it succesfuly? Any other ideas on how to get around it? Taking down the transmission myself if pretty much out of question since I don't have the tools, knowledge or space to do it. TIA
05-21-05, 10:29 AM
#3
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This must be a somewhat common problem- my 1st gen had the same problem (one of 'em broke)...
If you have to, get a good breaker bar and some extensions on it, to get the ratchet/ bar up out of the engine bay to get some torque on it. A wobbly extension works best, because you can't really hit it square with a socket.
If the shank is still sticking up into the cylinder body (on the broke bolt), and you don't want to go to the hassle of trying to extract it, just leave it there. The shank will at least help to keep the slave from moving much during its pressure movements. This is what I did on my 1st gen, it worked fine...
You have to get the other bolt out, of course, and if it breaks too then you'll have to concern yourself with pulling the tranny. You could try some PB blaster or other penetrant on it, but the shoulder of the bolt head is probably going to prevent most of it from getting down in there... They're 12mm bolts, IIRC, so they're pretty stout to begin with.
A lot of rust in that area because of the cast iron materials of the slave, so you probably have a bit of corrosion messing with you. If you do happen to get it out successfully, use some anti-seize compound (hi temp nickel based stuff works best) when going back in with it...
If you have to, get a good breaker bar and some extensions on it, to get the ratchet/ bar up out of the engine bay to get some torque on it. A wobbly extension works best, because you can't really hit it square with a socket.
If the shank is still sticking up into the cylinder body (on the broke bolt), and you don't want to go to the hassle of trying to extract it, just leave it there. The shank will at least help to keep the slave from moving much during its pressure movements. This is what I did on my 1st gen, it worked fine...
You have to get the other bolt out, of course, and if it breaks too then you'll have to concern yourself with pulling the tranny. You could try some PB blaster or other penetrant on it, but the shoulder of the bolt head is probably going to prevent most of it from getting down in there... They're 12mm bolts, IIRC, so they're pretty stout to begin with.
A lot of rust in that area because of the cast iron materials of the slave, so you probably have a bit of corrosion messing with you. If you do happen to get it out successfully, use some anti-seize compound (hi temp nickel based stuff works best) when going back in with it...
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