ok ...

when i dropped my newer engine into my 88TII, i replaced ALOT of things ...
mainly gaskets, and heater hose ... etc

i also repalced the oil injectors, and the oil injector lines ...

i have put about 300 miles on the engine now, and the lines that are visible still look VERY clean ...

now keep in mind i only run synthetic, but it seems as though they would have been a little stained by now ...

to try to help lubricate, just if they arent flowing ive been running about 4oz (for every full tank) of Marvel Mystery Oil in my gas

ill try to get some pics, but i mean they still look pretty damn clean

anyone know???

 

Clean as in amber, or clean as in "still clear"?

They should be vaguely oil colored. At 300 miles, your engine oil should still be nice & clean, but amber.

-=Russ=-

 

I'm wondering if the lines are empty! I don't think these lines stain, but they'll varnish if kept plumbed into the main oil system, especially with the mineral spoil.

 

no they are clean as in ... still clear ... they look brand new .. which they are ... but oil has been flowing thru them ... synthetic oil ... ???

this seems like it could be bad??

 

Um... are you SURE oil has been flowing through them?

300 miles without oil on a rebuild isn't *good* for the engine, but it's not going to be horrible. Some threads suggest running a tank of gas with either no premix or very little premix on the first tank after a rebuild (if you're running premix). Doesn't strike me as the best idea, but it would help things wear in quicker.

Oil isn't totally clear. You should be able to see at least something in the lines.

One possibility is that the oil passage to the injection pump got clogged when putting the front cover back on. It's a tiny low pressure hole in the flange that the front housing seals to. If there was more than just a thin film (haze) of RTV, it will most likely squeeze into that hole, and block oil. It's not a high pressure line at all.

I think your best bet at this point would be to assume the system is non-functional. This means premix is now your friend. 1oz of 2-cycle oil per gallon of gas, give or take. This lubricates the seals, and has very few downsides (you can run synthetic oil in your engine without worrying about how it burns, better seal lubrication, cleaner engine insides - but you have to add the 2-cycle oil every time you fill up. Not a big deal).

If you go this route, you may as well remove the oil injection setup. No need for it, and if it does decide to start working again, you'll have carbon buildup in the engine from the crankcase oil burning. Pull the oil injectors, plug the holes with bolts, remove the injection pump (if you have an S4, which it looks like from your sig, it can just get totally removed - an S5 needs it plugged in or the ECU gets pissed off), cover it with a blockoff plate (two dimes get put in to help keep the shaft from slopping around), and stop worrying about it.

-=Russ=-

 

ok i checked the lines out on break ..

i think there good to go ... they are very clean (they are brand new), but i did notice a shade of tint inside of them ... ive only run synthetic so i think im good to go