photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

Here's the story:

I've been casually looking around for FC RX7s in my area as I've been interest
ed in them for awhile. I'm a sophomore in highschool though so the money i get is kinda limited. I'm looking for a job through the summer at least and most likely through the school year as well.

(The interesting part)

One of my friend's parents bought a red '86 RX7 GXL for $300 that supposedly ran good when he bought it (a week or so ago). However, when he was driving it back to his place, it died on him and he hasn't been able to get it running again.

He can get it to turn over but it won't start. I wasn't able to talk to him in great detail about it but thats basically what he told me. He's going to sell it (for $300) since he doesn't have the time or means to figure out whats wrong w/ it. He knows his stuff on cars, just not rotaries. So, basically, I have the opportunity to buy an FC for $300.

(condition of car)

The exterior is red and the paint seems to be dyeing in a few places (a few specs, chips) and someone tried to break into the driver side door so theres a bunch of dents in that area. I didn't get to look at it that much but i didn't see any rust. The interior looked overall very nice. The driver's seat had a chunk missing out of it though. The engine bay looked very clean as well.


So... a few questions:

- Is there any possible way that this could be an easy fix or is it for sure that the engine is blown (can you tell off that little info)?

- Should I get it? It would basically be sitting around for awhile before I could get the money and fix it up but... for $300...

- How much work and money would have to be poured into it to get it working? I'm willing to work but its the money thats the issue.


I know I don't have much info on the car's problems but, any advice... appreciated much. Thanks guys.

MasonX

Go down to your local Napa or equivalent and tell em you need a compression tester. Ask them to tell you how to use it. I don't know how much these cost but it shouldn't be more than $20. If the engine has full compression (90+ psi) then its a winner. If one of the rotors has about 15 psi then the engine needs to rebuilt which is major $$$ for a high school student.

Dyre

It could be a blown motor, or it could simply be VERY flooded...
You need to check the compression.
If the motor is blown its very expensive to fix, flooding is much eaiser.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

How much would an engine rebuild run?

Or could it be cheaper to buy a j-spec?

Thanks for the replies.

rxseven

At the very least, pull the spark plugs and crank. If you get 3 distinct/loud clicks the car is only flooded. Check rx7.com for the unflooding procedure. If it's any other problem other than compression it's a steal for $300.

A rebuild will run you $1800 with core exchange with $500-$800 to get it installed.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

$1800 and $5-600? crap...

Can an engine flood while you're driving (causing it to die like it did)?

I hope its something simple.

SirRX7

For $300 you should jump on it. Blown engine or not. If shes just flooded you got a great deal, If she's blown you can part her out here and on eBay and make your $300 back and quite possible a little profit.

Therx7ist

you have to eliminate one thing at a time. Determine if its flooded or missing spark before you do anything else.What causes you to immediately assume you need an engine swap?

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

I guess I don't really have much of a reason to just assume its blown... i didn't know exactly what else might cause the car to die and not start.

Can you do a compression check if the engine doesn't start/its flooded (sorry, i dunno how it works)?

If you can I think I'll just check the compression first and then if its good go from there (check for flooding or what not).

I'm just kinda hesitant to buy the car ($300 or not) if it has a blown engine... I don't want to spend the money on it if I'm just going to part it out (and I'm not even sure how well i'd be able to do that).


Thanks for the suggestions...

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

*bump*

Well I'm going to do a compression test and if its fine I'll try to buy it.

It should be interesting though, because the money i've got coming in has been going to saving up for my 3 week trip to Japan this summer.

Hopefully, I can do both.

jspecracer7

If it's flooded, pull the egi fuse and crank the engine over and stop(crank for appx. 5 to 10 seconds). Crank it over again and stop. Have someone crank the engine over and while they're cranking the engine, put the fuse back in. That's how I deflooded the engine in my n/a FC and TII.

Felix Wankel

I doubt it is flooded. Flooding won't make a car die while it's driving.

To save cash, do what I affectionately call the ''ghetto compression test''. Pull the EGI fuses, one leading plug at a time, and listen for three pulses. If you get them on each rotor, buy it. Anything else is a simple fix.

BlackDragon

Don't you have to get a special compression tester for rotaries? If so (or if not, whichever) can I get a more precise price check on that? Also, is there a special way to compression check rotaries, if so, is there a "how to" someplace? Thanks

RX-7Impreza

hey photo,

where are you located?? if you are in this area i could prolly help, same with most of the guys on the forum. unless you live in canada.... sorry i had to, but i am J/k

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Well, if it died while he was driving it, chances are it's not flooded. I just got an 87 NA recently that croaked while being driven, and all it turned out to be was the MOTOR fuse was blown, go figure. I'd check compression, and if compressions a go, it should be an easy fix.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

I live in Camas, Washington and any help would be very appreciated.

This forum is awesome.

RX-7Imprezza, when can I expect your flight in?

I'm going to school.... later

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Is there a way to see if its flooded without unflooding it?

If so, buy it cheap, unflood it at home, or be mean like me, the cfar i bought was "undrivable" but a little brake fluid, and that clutch he said was bustyed, came to life, bet he was mad

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

You've answered most of my questions except this one:

How does the compression tester work? Can I do the compression test if the car doesn't start?

Thankyou.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

*bump*

don't mean to be impatient but I need to know the answer to this asap. And if you wanted to know I have been searching around for this but haven't found anything yet.

gotorx7

The motor doesn't have to start, just turn over.

The compression test is done by removing the spark plugs and putting a compression guage in the hole(s)..

PlayinW/Wankel

The engine has 2 spark plugs per rotor so dont remove both of them, just the leading which I do believe is the top one (someone correct me if I am wrong). If you remove both you wont have compression when you put the tester in the spark pulg hole. You can use a regular autozone compression tester to do a basic compression test, There should be a valve on it, it releases the pressure on the gauge, you need to hold that open, and have someone crank over the engine while you watch the gauge. While its cranking watch for 3 bumps up to around 90 PSI if you only get 2 then you have a blown seal and it is time for a rebuild. Check each rotor, but usually its the rear rotor that goes. Hope this helps

P.S. If a apex seal blew it should run of the other rotor right?

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

Okay, thanks guys... i got it. Thanks for the explanation, PlayinW/Wankel.

Anyways, it doesn't look so good for me, though. I just called the guy and he said that some person is out there looking at the car right now and possibly buying it (I should of told him i was interested in it sooner but even so i guess this guy got to it first).

Hopefully, he'll see what a piece of junk it is and not buy it.