shifter cup removal
04-09-12, 07:50 PM
#3
What cup? The "cup" on the end of the shift fork that the little ball at the end of the shifter sits in? Or do you mean the plastic bushing? And how is it stuck in reverse? Is it jammed in and won't budge out, or can you just put the shifter back in and pop it out of gear?
04-09-12, 08:26 PM
#4
i just had mine apart. ask away
if your talking about the broken plastic bushing you can replace that, as Agreen said if it is stuck in reverse put the shifter back in and pop it back into neutral.
when replacing the bushings there are 3 the white lower one (as seen broken) a metal spring clip that goes under that, and a blue bushing that sits on the top of the shifter ball.
there is also the return spring that is almost always broken but you need to pull the trans and acess the side cover to replace that.
yours looks broken
did you recently pull apart the trans? if you put the select lock spindle in the wrong way when putting together the tailshaft you can lock it in reverse.
new return spring (pain in the ***)
side cover removed for return spring
damn i with i took pics today when i replaced my trans and swapped around the springs and bushings
oh and see the knoch in the last pic? the shifter bushings and shifter ball have to line up with that when installing. that could mess you up too
if your talking about the broken plastic bushing you can replace that, as Agreen said if it is stuck in reverse put the shifter back in and pop it back into neutral.
when replacing the bushings there are 3 the white lower one (as seen broken) a metal spring clip that goes under that, and a blue bushing that sits on the top of the shifter ball.
there is also the return spring that is almost always broken but you need to pull the trans and acess the side cover to replace that.
yours looks broken
did you recently pull apart the trans? if you put the select lock spindle in the wrong way when putting together the tailshaft you can lock it in reverse.
new return spring (pain in the ***)
side cover removed for return spring
damn i with i took pics today when i replaced my trans and swapped around the springs and bushings
oh and see the knoch in the last pic? the shifter bushings and shifter ball have to line up with that when installing. that could mess you up too
Last edited by J5sense; 04-09-12 at 08:28 PM.
04-10-12, 11:03 AM
#5
phirzcol
Thread Starter
many thanks
Perfect, as always picture worth a thousand words. What about cutting 5x5 inch cut in floorboard to pull off side cover to get the pin out to remove the metal cup part? Other thread mentions replacing the plastic ball receiver with a brass bushing. Could i put inside the cup a bushing to "fix" the fact that 1/4 of the cup fractured off?
04-10-12, 02:43 PM
#6
Oh... now I see what you're talking about. That block is a pain to remove, even with it out of the car. What I've found is that if you can tap the roll pin with a tiny little tap and thread in a screw, you can cobble together a sort of puller to extract the roll pin out towards you. You could potentially do it with the transmission inside the car still. You'd just have to loosen the engine mounts and drop the transmission mount and let the transmission hang down a little so you can get at it. It's not going to be quick, so plan on doing this as an all day event.
04-10-12, 11:26 PM
#7
yes it is a all day event. lower the trans tail end down by pulling the exhaust and driveshaft out. then with the trans still connected to motor lower the tail end and remove the 4 10mm bolts to the side cover of the tail housing.
push the shifter forward to the bell housing (shaft slides into the trans) you then have to remove the 12mm bolts on top of the trans tailshaft. take a block of wood and a hammer and pound the tailshaft back to free up room for the block to pop out. take a punch and pop the roller pin out. and take the block out. install new spring and new block and new roller pin. fill the tail end back up with fluid too.
push the shifter forward to the bell housing (shaft slides into the trans) you then have to remove the 12mm bolts on top of the trans tailshaft. take a block of wood and a hammer and pound the tailshaft back to free up room for the block to pop out. take a punch and pop the roller pin out. and take the block out. install new spring and new block and new roller pin. fill the tail end back up with fluid too.
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04-11-12, 04:33 PM
#8
phirzcol
Thread Starter
pin
yes it is a all day event. lower the trans tail end down by pulling the exhaust and driveshaft out. then with the trans still connected to motor lower the tail end and remove the 4 10mm bolts to the side cover of the tail housing.
push the shifter forward to the bell housing (shaft slides into the trans) you then have to remove the 12mm bolts on top of the trans tailshaft. take a block of wood and a hammer and pound the tailshaft back to free up room for the block to pop out. take a punch and pop the roller pin out. and take the block out. install new spring and new block and new roller pin. fill the tail end back up with fluid too.
push the shifter forward to the bell housing (shaft slides into the trans) you then have to remove the 12mm bolts on top of the trans tailshaft. take a block of wood and a hammer and pound the tailshaft back to free up room for the block to pop out. take a punch and pop the roller pin out. and take the block out. install new spring and new block and new roller pin. fill the tail end back up with fluid too.
The cluch stuck in gear normal for this kind of failure? Or did i kill a hydro cyl?
04-11-12, 08:18 PM
#9
yes its normal for that kind of falure. have a friend press the clutch pedal while you look at the slave cyl to see it pushing on the shifter fork to be sure
read this thread too.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacing-centering-spring-manual-trans-871351/
read this thread too.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacing-centering-spring-manual-trans-871351/
