The OMP system has a tiny pump that just floods the lines with a small amount of pressure. The flow is dictated by engine vacuum and the air bleeds on the top of the oil injectors diffuse the spray. The keg has vacuum in the chamber, so the engine itself sucks it in.

You should not have that much smoke from an OMP and I would guess you have soft seals that are worn. The amount of flow from the OMP is really not that much, also, the OMP gets it's oil straight off the oil pump itself. If you had an engine torn apart, you would see the oil path from the engine oil pump, through the front cover, and into the OMP.

 

I disagree completely that engine vacuum & injector air-bleeds have anything at all to do with it. I've got an S5 electric OMP right in front of me... The ECU tells the thing WHEN to pump... The Engine turned drive-cog provides the Pressure. What are you thinking? The Oil goes to the keg injector ports & has Zero to do anything else. There's No Air-Bleed Diffusion Doo-dad for the OMP... You're making stuff up.

The Air-bleed sockets are for the Fuel Injectors to eliminate a vacuum-condition behind the injectors so that the air-fuel mixture moves in a Steady Direction without causing cavitation in the Intake Manifold & the Diffusion Grids can properly atomize the fuel.

It's not my intention to foment an argument when there really isn't one to make... I didn't invent the thing... I just try to understand these things the best I can & I can make errors as easily as anyone else...

 

I'm not going to get into a pissing match here, because it's not worth my time.


The oil injectors have air bleeds on the top of them. That diffuses the oil. The keg provides the vacuum to draw oil in. The cog in the pump regulates the amount of oil injected.


The oil pressure from the engine oil pump sends it to the OMP, which steps it down and the gear provides a small amount of flow.


You are confusing the fuel injector bleeds with the oil injector ports. I'm not making things up and I suggest you read the FSM.

The MOP should only inject about 5cc of oil at 2000RPM in 5 minutes.

 

OK... See.. I can be wrong... I did forget about that part... Thank You for correcting me. I left those bits in the Bone Yard & just have the pump & lines & fittings on the bench.

I Apologize.

Anyway... The Point I was making about excessive smoke & that I might have problems is Still the Same. I could easily disconnect the Mechanical OMP rod & juke it up & down by hand to make a bunch of smoke... In My Mind... when I stab the Throttle, I'm getting the Lube to Flow. An S5 has a computer to tell it what to do... I have to think about what the S4 might want because It's Stupid & just a Mechanical Thing.

Some of the Smoking Issue will come from the Port Air for the exhaust providing oxygen to burn up whatever lube ends up in the exhaust... I'm not sure if it's working correctly or not, but there's no excessive back-firing... a pop or 2 from a rich mixture is otay for a stock ECU I guess... Not much I can do about it at this point...

 

The S5 OMP is just a stepper motor that controls flow, much like a IAC valve.

The S4 does it mechanically. I still think you have too much smoke from your tailpipe, which is likely due to worn soft seals.

The amount of flow you get from WOT vs idle, is really not that much different in the short term. Stabbing the throttle doesn't induce flow in the way that you think it would, since it's such a small amount.

5cc of oil is only a few drops, and that happens over the course of 5 minutes at 2000RPMs, so if you really were dumping enough oil to smoke like that continuously, I call that a problem. Stabbing the throttle also lowers the manifold vacuum. An engine only produces vacuum at idle and light cruise, or on decel. Generally, 18" idle, about 22-25' on decel, and about 5-10" at cruise. Stabbing the throttle opens the plates wide and you get 0-2" vacuum. Again, the vacuum of the keg is what draws the mix in, as does a tiny amount of flow from the pump itself. It's less a pump and more of a regulator anyway.

 

You may very well be correct... I'm Thinking Wishfully... I've only put about 100 miles on the car since I bought it a few years ago... It really needs to be exercised. Comparatively speaking, this one starts & runs much better than my Dad's old S4 before & after I swapped a used S5 engine into it.

Maybe Sheriff Andy will give me a Day Pass to do a few runs... I just can't go out to the Nuke Plant & do WOT speed runs down the deserted barrier island highway like I used to... Something about Homeland Security or something...

I just put in a new fuel pump and some relays & got it running again after sitting on the back 40 for a couple of years... So the Actual Condition is Questionable - as You Say - I'm the One that's Guessing & Thinking Wishfully... for sure... It's not really very informative just sitting there Revving, but Felt Strong on the Relative Butt Dyno Drifting around the neighborhood canal bridges.

Edit: I really did not intend to descend into an OMP Rant. I posted the Video More as an Audio Demonstration of the Exhaust. I'm Sorry for Digressing & Talking out of my Butt-Dyno. The Explanation of my "Peculiar Habits" was intended as context for the Audio. The Fogging Aspect is a secondary distraction...

What do you Think about the Tone?

 

So that's a RB dual from header to mufflers (also RB, I gather) but no resonators or cats?

It would entertain me for about five minutes and then be too loud.
I couldn't be that loud yet so slow.
I'm way more fond of the near silent Z...I feel like a matte black shark silently circulating among tuna, and the straight six has the torque to actually be aggressive in city speed traffic*.




*Not that I would ever do that, nor encourage others to do so and remember to always wear safety glasses.

 

Yes, that is the RB True Dual Header & Mufflers with the "Pre-silencer" after the header.

My 240Z has a section of exhaust pipe missing ATM... The neighbors aren't happy when I start that one up.

 

That's in my sig since 2005

 

Too bad a Prius will kick my *** off the line...if "anti-Prius" means slow, that's an accurate sig.

Spent a few hours just going over the engine bay, laid wrenches on most of the bolts (everything was snug), wiped it down with a white tee shirt looking for leaks (maybe a mist from the lower rad hose, so I tightened them all), checked the plugs and timing (short of dripping oil or a melted end, I have no idea how to "read" this type of plug, so back in they went and the timing was spot on) and reset the TPS (it was at .97v and even though it now says 1.00v there's so much slop in the linkage I'll bet it's already changed)...basically, everything looks nominal.
I have new oil/filter but decided to hold off changing it because the dipstick shows a good level and the oil seems clean enough, so there's no compelling reason to dump this batch yet.

I even vacuumed out the interior and will wash her later this afternoon when the sun relents a bit.

I still struggle with the exhaust and think I'm going to have to drop the whole thing to make it good. The biggest problem spot is the rear of the cat>RB y-pipe...I can get it almost, but never quite sealed.
She's tolerable now and I see no point in tinkering further until I have a new cat to install, plus, I'm going to need new gaskets for the y-pipe>muffler joints if I break them open. Probably new hardware, too.

I haven't heard from Hiko lately, so no idea how the old engine is doing. Last news it was ready to go back together, using all the original main hard parts...which is amazing, if it works.

End transmission.

 

I'm disappointed but can no longer deny the facts...I don't like the Audi steering wheel and can't put my finger on why.
Previous experience shows that when it comes to ergonomics, even a few millimeters can make a big difference and the Audi wheel is about 1/4"-3/8" larger diameter than the old Mazda 6 wheel.
I can't say that's the issue but something just hasn't gelled...I find I'm still aware of the wheel after a few weeks of use and that's not right, it should be transparent and unremarkable.

It's weird that I love the wheel in the Z but not the FC.
Shouldn't surprise me though, the same thing happened when I first bought the Mazda.
I had just sold my 240Z, which had a wood rimmed Grant steering wheel that I thought was great, so I immediately went out and got one for the rotary (I think it was the first thing I bought for the FC) and absolutely hated it. Never was sure why, but that started a steering wheel hunt that I've continued to this day, the Maz6 being the best so far.

Oh well, it was worth a try.

 

You know I was never a big fan of the stock FC wheel, but once I applied a simple Wheelskins wrap, my opinion of the factory wheel improved dramatically. Just the slight increase in rim diameter and better feel of the new leather was all it took to make wheel much better in my mind. As always YMMV.

http://wheelskins.com/

 

I love the Mazda 6 wheel in my 7, from day 1 it's just seemed right. The only problem is that I sometimes find myself expecting to use the wheel-mounted cruise set and accel/decel buttons, as I do regularly in my 6. Because the spokes are a bit higher/thicker, I find it does block my view of the actual cruise stalk and lights, although even with the factory wheel, those were marginal.

 

how exactly do those go on? I'm intrigued, but they look like they are a tight formed fit?

 

Video from their site

 

durr, didn't see that on their site

 

Yup, totally agree. I have a wheelskins wrap on my 90 vert. Unlike the video, I removed my wheel and laced the wrap in the living room watching a Parcells coached Dallas team.

The only win that day was the wheelskins wrap install.

 

I bought a basic perforated lace-on wheel wrap for the Volvo P1800 which had a rather delicate & large thin wooden wheel like the 240Z. I really had to stretch the first one I tried & it developed a few small rips - so I went back & bought the slightly larger one & just went over the first el-cheapo wheel wrap.

That really made a Big Difference - as the Lady-friend drives the Volvo - The hand clamping effort is much reduced as well as direct vibration from bumps without loosing direct feel. I got a really Nice Dinner for that improvement.

To me, the extra "Compliance" of the 2 wheel wraps tamed the manual steering rack & decreased the low-speed turning effort very effectively.

 

So, if I read this right, it was the increased girth that did it for her?

 

Yep... Double Wrap It... The Girth Increase really made a difference for Her... I was fine with it Bare, but whatever... She tends to get moisturizer on it from her hands & I wouldn't want it to slip out of control when it gets a little rough.

 

OK, enough ****, time for a more wholesome adventure.
features a car built by the owner of my habitual junkyard.
Apparently, I am not the only one who bowls up and wanders the yard for inspiration.

Next time I'm there I must make a point of seeking out and shaking the hand of this fine gentleman.

 

I use the same inspirational techniques myself... Perhaps I'll make a pilgrimage when I'm in Boulder in a few weeks & check it out for myself. I had been perusing the Radial & Rotary aircraft engines a few days ago for giggles... Quite interesting for Pondering Rotarded Ideas as I wander about my "Back 40" seeking Divine Insight into Silly Things. :P

 

He should split the exhaust and run two back and into stacks out of the bed, behind the cab, to get the full airplane/truck effect.

 

That car/thing is now on display at the junkyard and it's quite the thing to behold.
It's more like the distilled idea of a hot rod than an actual car because it was obviously never intended to actually drive or even run for too long, but it does look way cool.

I visited the yard three times this week, looking for inspiration to complete the Z interior and possibly a better gauge setup for my FC.
I found no solutions (not even improbable ones) to gamble on for the Z strut towers and am currently bereft of ideas.
I'm about ready to give up on my gauges (bear in mind that my Miata cluster is fully functional, it's the lighting- already a massive improvement over the stock FC setup- that I dislike).
New stuff, with all the LED lighting is what I want but it's all CANBUS operated and I have no way to interface with it. Just upgrading my bulbs to LEDs migh be better but they'd still be running through the stock diffusers and the murky dials (someone at Mazda brilliantly thought that tinting the white indicator markings (on a black face), should light green at night.
The gauges look underwater to me and nowhere near as clean and crisp as say, Sigfrid's RX 8 cluster (which I like a lot).

That's just being picky though, I distinctly recall thinking that she's running great, possibly better than ever, and even asked Corey to drive her and provide an unbiased appraisal.
Before he got back to me, ole Sprocket decided she just couldn't anymore with first gear.
No idea what happened.

I was once again on the way to the yard, it's all 20-45mph street driving, and was stopped at a light. Prior to this moment I had no indication anything was wrong but as I took off from the green, there was a loud and disturbing mechanical banging/clanking noise, but it stopped as soon as I hit second gear. I felt nothing through the shift lever and she still shifts fine. There is no noise at idle in neutral, it only happens in first- second through fourth are competely normal.

I dunno but guess I'll start looking for a trans.

Meanwhile, Sigfrid and I were schedule to work on the Z today and I figured what the hell, and drove the FC 17 miles on city streets (lots of stoplights) through Denver. Only had to use first gear once, which I thought quite amazing given the lightweight flywheel, but it was no big deal at all.
My car is slow but she's a trooper.

Anyway, because I'd struck out with the rear strut tower covers (I kinda think FC trim might work but am loathe to pull mine and see), we decided to attack the doorpanels instead.
Presumably an easier project.
At least, so we thought.

I had prepared by watching innumerable YouTube videos but ****, those guys have proper materials, tools and a clue.
We have Home Depot, JoAnn Fabrics and round end scissors.
And absolutely no idea what we're doing.

Our first attempt was a hilariously comprehensive failure...turns out, contact cement melts the hard foam we first tried. Like, turns it into goo.
We're trying to reprofile the panel to better mate with the Miata dash and we need to add some structure- figured we'd glue on some foam (like styrofoam), carve it to shape and then skin it with fiberglass. That would give us a hard surface to glue the finish (soft) foam and vinyl on.

We scraped the first chemistry experiment off and then tried expanding foam...just sloobed it all over and we'll see how that does.
It'll need to cure before we can carve/shape it, so I don't yet know how that'll turn out.

Meanwhile, and on a welcome note of success, we did manage to eliminate a clunk from the rear end. Not sure what it was cause we just went over everything, nothing was disturbingly loose but a few bolts did take a bit of a turn, so who knows.
And really, who cares...the noise is gone, so we're happy.

And that's what's new.

 

yeah the Rx8 cluster is pretty good, you know maybe a 90's lexus would work? it'll be green, but it probably won't be canbus, and they light the gauges like the rx8. just a thought.

fot the trans, our race car, which is a miata is doing something like this, except its 5th/reverse. its sometimes fine, sometimes not. we're transmission shopping too :/ last night we got it stuck in reverse in the middle of the street trying to get it up the ramp to the hotel, for a wedding.