setting timing without gun
setting timing without gun
i have s5 motor and s4 pulley, the pulley didnt fit good i had to drill out holes to make it fit. i was wondering if its possible to set timming just by sound of motor? and when u turn cas counter clockwise that would be retard?
I don't have much experience with S5's, but on s4's the holes in the pulley on the end of the eccentric shaft are offset so that the pulleys can only go on one way, so that you can set your timing using the marks milled into the inner pulley.
Other than that, to be absolutely sure, you'd have to figure out where in the rotation the rotors were, mark the pulley in reference to that, and go from there.
Or there's the old mechanic trick to get it close - start the car (if you can get it to start) then turn the cas back and forward while a friend watches the tach, set the cas to the point that gives you the highest rpm. If the highest you can get on the cas is all the way one way or the other, then stop the engine, unbolt the cas, move it one tooth and repeat.
Good luck, hope it all works for you!
Other than that, to be absolutely sure, you'd have to figure out where in the rotation the rotors were, mark the pulley in reference to that, and go from there.
Or there's the old mechanic trick to get it close - start the car (if you can get it to start) then turn the cas back and forward while a friend watches the tach, set the cas to the point that gives you the highest rpm. If the highest you can get on the cas is all the way one way or the other, then stop the engine, unbolt the cas, move it one tooth and repeat.
Good luck, hope it all works for you!
Originally Posted by rx7vadim
i have s5 motor and s4 pulley, the pulley didnt fit good i had to drill out holes to make it fit.
There is one offset hole so the pulley only goes on one way.
You just messed that up.
i was wondering if its possible to set timming just by sound of motor? and when u turn cas counter clockwise that would be retard?
You can get a cheapie timing gun from Sears for like $30.
If you can't afford that, you really should not be messing with the car.

-Ted
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i think its a little late, he already said in another thread that upon startup the engine pissed out all the oil.
well now this is a lesson to not try and hack your car together, read the FSM and do what it sais. i don't recall it saying anywhere to drill the pulleys if they 'don't line up'...
oh, and a rear main seal costs a grand total of $5, they also tend to like to spin in the rear stat gear housing after some time..
i guess that is why a number of people trust their money better with seasoned rotary techs, sorry to say to you now.
well now this is a lesson to not try and hack your car together, read the FSM and do what it sais. i don't recall it saying anywhere to drill the pulleys if they 'don't line up'...
oh, and a rear main seal costs a grand total of $5, they also tend to like to spin in the rear stat gear housing after some time..
i guess that is why a number of people trust their money better with seasoned rotary techs, sorry to say to you now.
1. Buy a used front pulley for your series car.
2. Put it on right. Like the man said, the holes are offset so it will go on only one way.
3. Buy a cheap timing light. Time the engine with it.
2. Put it on right. Like the man said, the holes are offset so it will go on only one way.
3. Buy a cheap timing light. Time the engine with it.
I just use the cheapest timing light available. I'm sure I spent less than twenty bucks.
If you want to play with timing, buy a RTEK2.0 and change it that way. That's after you set the timing with a light and have the pulley marks where they belong.
Others on the OTHER FRIENDLY FORUM claim that each pulley and timing marks are different for each engine. YOU can take that for what it's worth. I find it hard to believe myself. Makes no sense but they are True Believers.
If you want to play with timing, buy a RTEK2.0 and change it that way. That's after you set the timing with a light and have the pulley marks where they belong.
Others on the OTHER FRIENDLY FORUM claim that each pulley and timing marks are different for each engine. YOU can take that for what it's worth. I find it hard to believe myself. Makes no sense but they are True Believers.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Others on the OTHER FRIENDLY FORUM claim that each pulley and timing marks are different for each engine. YOU can take that for what it's worth. I find it hard to believe myself. Makes no sense but they are True Believers.
Originally Posted by Hellkat
restabbing the cas usually gets you close to your timing. And you can do that without a timing gun
All stock FC pulley should be all the same.
I thought J-Spec pulleys were marked differently, but I've verified that at least the one set was the same as the US-Spec.
I have never seen different timing marks on different FC pulleys myself.
Yes, ignition timing is advanced as RPM's rise.
This is also dependent on load.
If we all knew the exact numbers, we would all be running stand-alones, right?
-Ted
I thought J-Spec pulleys were marked differently, but I've verified that at least the one set was the same as the US-Spec.
I have never seen different timing marks on different FC pulleys myself.
Yes, ignition timing is advanced as RPM's rise.
This is also dependent on load.
If we all knew the exact numbers, we would all be running stand-alones, right?

-Ted
ok, the eccentric shaft pulleys on the hub (the hub is the thing the pulleys bolt to, it has four small holes and one big hole in the middle) CANNOT be taken off and swapped with pulleys from another hub. in other words each "hub and pulleys" is a matched set.
also while you have the front hub and pulley off, mark the pulley to indicate where the eccentric shaft keyway is (you know that big groove in the hub). i tell you to mark this because the keyway should be at the nine o'clock position (when you are facing the engine) and the timing marks on the pulleys should be right near the timing needle that is on the front cover.
in fact the yellow painted (leading) mark shoud be lined up with the timing needle on the front cover. after you have the leading timing mark lined up with the timing needle then align the tally marks on the crank angle sensor (cas), (distributor in older rx-7) housing and the cas (distributor) gear and insert the cas (distributor) and put on the locknut loosely.
you can then take off the cas cover and turn the cas housing until the projection of the signal rotor aligns with the core of the leading side pick-up coil. now start the car and use a timing gun to set the timing. you should set the timing according to the factory workshop manual.
also while you have the front hub and pulley off, mark the pulley to indicate where the eccentric shaft keyway is (you know that big groove in the hub). i tell you to mark this because the keyway should be at the nine o'clock position (when you are facing the engine) and the timing marks on the pulleys should be right near the timing needle that is on the front cover.
in fact the yellow painted (leading) mark shoud be lined up with the timing needle on the front cover. after you have the leading timing mark lined up with the timing needle then align the tally marks on the crank angle sensor (cas), (distributor in older rx-7) housing and the cas (distributor) gear and insert the cas (distributor) and put on the locknut loosely.
you can then take off the cas cover and turn the cas housing until the projection of the signal rotor aligns with the core of the leading side pick-up coil. now start the car and use a timing gun to set the timing. you should set the timing according to the factory workshop manual.
because the leading mark on my current s5 pulley is at arround 10 o'clock when the shaft key is in tdc. very confusing....
my last s4 motor i set timing on. leading was at 12 o'clock and shaft key was in tdc and thats it. the motor ran great.
my last s4 motor i set timing on. leading was at 12 o'clock and shaft key was in tdc and thats it. the motor ran great.





