serious idling issue, s5 turbo
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
serious idling issue, s5 turbo
hey guys.
i was hoping someone here has the solution to my very annoying idling issue. I am already with this a couple of months and i cannot seem to solve it so far.
Last winter i did a couple of mods, completely removed all the emmision and most of the vac system leaving only that what is neccecery. After the first start it ran perfect, idle was a bit high back then. I adjusted the throttle primary valve with a clearance of 1mm like said in the workshop manual but closed it a bit due the high idle.
I got it to the uk to map it, and since the first few full throttle pulls it didnt want to idle anymore. On the way back it was either stalling or idling higher then normal.
After trying many things and map adjustments at idle and low rpm we are down to this:
Cold start, under 1500rpm unstable idle. Drops below 900 and then comes back up to 1500, would say vac problem? If it is at operation tempreture it CAN idle perfectly. But am i driving and i push the clutch to make it idle it first drops to idle speed and almost immediately drops further down and stalls.
in the time from the remap until today i have replaced intake manifold gaskets, oil norzles (2 were broken), different rubber caps for the vac nipples on the uim. ignitons seemed to be early and has been set to normal. And last week i took of the ACV blockoff plate to put an oem gasket between it. Also checked the vac hoses again.
Soo... i realy have no clue where to look anymore. I am about to give up cuz i dont know what to do. I feel like the only option is to take everything appart.
Car specs:
Vacuum system:
-hose from side of uim to greddy bov
-hose from inside lim to 3 pressure sensors
-hose from between oil norzles to FPR
-oil norzle vacuum is same as stock
-powerbrake is stock
-all other nipples are capped off.
few car mods:
-streetport (done before i got it so it ran good with it)
-stock turbo, ported wastegate
-TB mod
-emmision completely removed, no bypass valves left
-vacuum system down to that above
-walbro 255lph pump, pump rewired, aeromotive fpr, 800cc secundair, s4 rails parallel
-apexi power FC from a 93 FD with banzai adapter kit
-apexi AVCR
-hks ignition amp
-act prolite flywheel and extreme clutch kit
-simple intake with apexi filter
-breather tank connected to the small pipe just above the engine on the oil filler pipe
Questions? Please ask. More info needed, tell me what.
Thanks
kevin
i was hoping someone here has the solution to my very annoying idling issue. I am already with this a couple of months and i cannot seem to solve it so far.
Last winter i did a couple of mods, completely removed all the emmision and most of the vac system leaving only that what is neccecery. After the first start it ran perfect, idle was a bit high back then. I adjusted the throttle primary valve with a clearance of 1mm like said in the workshop manual but closed it a bit due the high idle.
I got it to the uk to map it, and since the first few full throttle pulls it didnt want to idle anymore. On the way back it was either stalling or idling higher then normal.
After trying many things and map adjustments at idle and low rpm we are down to this:
Cold start, under 1500rpm unstable idle. Drops below 900 and then comes back up to 1500, would say vac problem? If it is at operation tempreture it CAN idle perfectly. But am i driving and i push the clutch to make it idle it first drops to idle speed and almost immediately drops further down and stalls.
in the time from the remap until today i have replaced intake manifold gaskets, oil norzles (2 were broken), different rubber caps for the vac nipples on the uim. ignitons seemed to be early and has been set to normal. And last week i took of the ACV blockoff plate to put an oem gasket between it. Also checked the vac hoses again.
Soo... i realy have no clue where to look anymore. I am about to give up cuz i dont know what to do. I feel like the only option is to take everything appart.
Car specs:
Vacuum system:
-hose from side of uim to greddy bov
-hose from inside lim to 3 pressure sensors
-hose from between oil norzles to FPR
-oil norzle vacuum is same as stock
-powerbrake is stock
-all other nipples are capped off.
few car mods:
-streetport (done before i got it so it ran good with it)
-stock turbo, ported wastegate
-TB mod
-emmision completely removed, no bypass valves left
-vacuum system down to that above
-walbro 255lph pump, pump rewired, aeromotive fpr, 800cc secundair, s4 rails parallel
-apexi power FC from a 93 FD with banzai adapter kit
-apexi AVCR
-hks ignition amp
-act prolite flywheel and extreme clutch kit
-simple intake with apexi filter
-breather tank connected to the small pipe just above the engine on the oil filler pipe
Questions? Please ask. More info needed, tell me what.
Thanks
kevin
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
front 5.8 5.5 and 5.9
readings of the rear was one chamber above 5.5 and 2 other below (their tester could not read lower).
But i might need to tell that they had it running on both the front and rear rotor and they both sounded the same.
vacuum, need to read that to make sure i say the right number, i am going to drive it in a few mins to a meeting.
VTA1 and VTA2, need to look that up aswell, but i can say i have checked them today directly at the sensor like said in the workshop manual.
readings of the rear was one chamber above 5.5 and 2 other below (their tester could not read lower).
But i might need to tell that they had it running on both the front and rear rotor and they both sounded the same.
vacuum, need to read that to make sure i say the right number, i am going to drive it in a few mins to a meeting.
VTA1 and VTA2, need to look that up aswell, but i can say i have checked them today directly at the sensor like said in the workshop manual.
#4
Your compression readings are seriously low, 6.0 (85 psi) is the minimum Mazda spec.
Don't bother checking the TPS at the sensor, you have a commander for that. Let me know the readings when you get them.
If your car stalls when you come to a stop with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to check the clutch switch at the top of the pedal assembly.
Don't bother checking the TPS at the sensor, you have a commander for that. Let me know the readings when you get them.
If your car stalls when you come to a stop with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to check the clutch switch at the top of the pedal assembly.
#5
Full Member
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
yea, bit a shame actualy. Previous owner did a rebuild with streetport without any other mods. I've got the idea that the car drove to long with that settup until i upgraded other things.
Anyway, forget the vta values everytime so thats why i did it at the sensor. Was easy to reach at the time.
vta 1: 0.69v
vta 2: 0.98v
at closed position.
Yesterday, again same story. Cold start, very unstable below 1500 rpm and if i take my foot of the pedal it will stall.
Got into a traffic jam for an opened bridge when i tought it would be a good idea to take a vid about the way it idled at that time.
Second video is at the meeting were it idled smooth with sometimes like the first vid.
And i must say, idle at first vid is already a bit different then before. Got the gauges in de vid aswell so you can see some values.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gzriWrzEtk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luvGcWLncV0
Anyway, forget the vta values everytime so thats why i did it at the sensor. Was easy to reach at the time.
vta 1: 0.69v
vta 2: 0.98v
at closed position.
Yesterday, again same story. Cold start, very unstable below 1500 rpm and if i take my foot of the pedal it will stall.
Got into a traffic jam for an opened bridge when i tought it would be a good idea to take a vid about the way it idled at that time.
Second video is at the meeting were it idled smooth with sometimes like the first vid.
And i must say, idle at first vid is already a bit different then before. Got the gauges in de vid aswell so you can see some values.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gzriWrzEtk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luvGcWLncV0
#7
You do not have enough fuel in your idle cells, you can see from the AFR that it is running too lean. In general rotaries like to idle at around 13.00-13.50 AFR.
A really quick test. Go to PIM volt, press next, yours is going to be set on option 2, press next. There will be a table showing RPM and percentage, go down to 1000 rpm and change the setting from 100% to 120% see how that effects your idle and AFRs.
A really quick test. Go to PIM volt, press next, yours is going to be set on option 2, press next. There will be a table showing RPM and percentage, go down to 1000 rpm and change the setting from 100% to 120% see how that effects your idle and AFRs.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hmm,
My first tought was that it was flooding because it was so rich at idle, thats why we tried to get it a bit leaner. And at the moment it would drop and stall the afr would drop to 10 or sometimes even 9.
My first tought was that it was flooding because it was so rich at idle, thats why we tried to get it a bit leaner. And at the moment it would drop and stall the afr would drop to 10 or sometimes even 9.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
yes but this is a video i made saturday.
I remembered i had another video. This video is made a couple of days AFTER the first remap. The remap were the problem started.
Note that every time the rpm is going up, that is becaus i push the pedal a bit to keep it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WA3Ph36Zx98
So this video is short after the problem started, and that is what i meant with running rich. We tought it was flooding at the point of stalling so we tried adjusting it leaner at idle. Thats why the 2 video's above show a lean value.
I remembered i had another video. This video is made a couple of days AFTER the first remap. The remap were the problem started.
Note that every time the rpm is going up, that is becaus i push the pedal a bit to keep it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WA3Ph36Zx98
So this video is short after the problem started, and that is what i meant with running rich. We tought it was flooding at the point of stalling so we tried adjusting it leaner at idle. Thats why the 2 video's above show a lean value.
#11
Save the map. Reload the base map that we sent you and see if you issue goes away. If it does, then take the car to a better tuner.
So which video is showing what the car is actually doing now? Posting bad diagnostics is not going to get you the answers you are looking for.
So which video is showing what the car is actually doing now? Posting bad diagnostics is not going to get you the answers you are looking for.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That is actualy the only thing i can think of to try chris.
first 2 video's is how it is running at this moment.
Last video is were it started with. And yes, i don't think i am going back there to get it fully mapped.
Thanks so far chris,
first 2 video's is how it is running at this moment.
Last video is were it started with. And yes, i don't think i am going back there to get it fully mapped.
Thanks so far chris,
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