I am turbo swapping my 1990 Coupe, my original plan was to run the PS ans A/C as i want this car to be a good daily driver and autocrosser. I know the game as much as anyone and people want thier cake and they want to eat it too, i am no different. I want a/c and PS, I can live without PS but really dont want to. I am also very interested in having a clean professional engine bay. I am removing emissions, running an open exhaust (downwpipe, RB presilencer, short y and catless).. I was not planning on relocating the battery either....I am going to post a picture of my new to me intercooler setup and you guys tell me if I have just thrown a wrench in my plans. Basically I am very stressed about the purchase I just made, I am wondering if I have complicated my build...

I bought a T2 hood with every intention of keeping the OEM intercooler, then this intercooler surfaced... I always do this... This is a picture of it on his car...



Im exhausted.

 

As you know it does prove difficult to route the intercoolering piping on the drivers side of the engine bay if you want the battery, PS and AC intact. If it's possible, maybe you can find the old style greddy kit or attempt to emulate it. It crams the piping all on the passenger side allowing you to retain PS and AC.
Here is a crappy pic of my setup; you get the idea.

 

If you want to autocross the car I think you're heading in the wrong direction. You want NO PS since the crappy stock one will hydrolock easily (wait till your first slalom if you don't believe me) and you will lose some serious boost response with a crappy piping setup like the one posted above (no offense to the owner).

 

I am going through the Same thing,Right NOW.
I can tell you that IF you keep your Power steering you Can run pipes to the Intercooler.(front).
You come up out of the Windshield washer Hole(driver's side) and do about 180(180 bend pipe.) it will Shoot the Pipe back down.then you go Between, where the A/C compressor is and then UP to an FC Greddy elbow.
It can be done!
I just took a Different approach.I Put an FD upper on.
So,If you think you are Stresssed out,..wah..wah,,what abbouutt me?..
this build is sayin,Have a Cold one Styx..(and I haven't had a drink in 4 years!)

 

None taken, my car came like that. I don't like the setup either, but i'm keeping it because it's funky and old. Probably the easiest way to retain all accessories (it was designed this way) even though I don't have AC & PS.

 

Question then, How do I remove the PS while retaining A/C? the A/C mounts to that bracket...

I was going to de-power the rack until noticing that it has to mount to the PS bracket..

 

here is my inner cooler piping ran next to the battery. works perfect. just had to move the coil over.

 

i also have a smaller battery that helps also.

 

Thanks for the pictures... Still nervous.

 

Just remove the pump from the bracket. You can even go so far as to trim away bits of the bracket you don't want afterwards.

Running that style (new greddy) intercooler CAN BE DONE while keeping A/C, P/S, *AND* the stock battery location.

IAN on this forum, a friend of mine, ran that setup for years. He eventually removed his P/S to get a better feeling steering for the track (although he now regrets removing it) PM him if you like.

Just takes some playing with the pipes to work. Totally doable though. TOTALLY.

 

Wow all these issues. I have been running my setup for three years. I time attack and auto x with all the factory accessorys. The car puts out 368rwhp. You don't have to get rid of all your accessorys. Just have a good cooling System ( Oil and water ). Checkout my pics in the members section.
Thanks Robert

 

what computer are you going to run?

You can put a WTB ad and try to find a non ps AC bracket from a S4 car, thats what I am running. I did have to customize it so I could bolt up a S6 compressor to it- but thats besides the point.

Get rid of PS, it clutters the bay and if you get a manual rack the car steers fine with it and feels even better once you are underway. Move the battery and you will have no problems with the IC pipes.

Just make your life easier now and get rid of the PS.

Back in the day the older style greddy was all the rage, it is a excellent set up.

 

I probobly have the non PS A/C bracket somewhere in my garage if you need it.

My car didn't come with PS and I didn't even notice until I removed my A/C, which didn't work anyway.

 

I originally wanted to keep the AC and PS in my TurboVert. I ordered two 3" oval transitions from Burn$ $tainle$$. The idea was to weld them together to ovalize the pipe briefly so as to squeeze between the strut tower and the pump/compressor. The 3" ovalized section wound up fitting through, but I was uncomfortable with the clearance on each side, plus 3" pipe to the throttle body was going to hit the brake master without some funky-*** bends. I wound up ditching AC and using a modded 1st gen bracket to keep PS as pictured below. If you can find 2 or 2.5" oval transitions elsewhere, I do think my idea would have worked.

I also should say that my old TII had the quickest ratio PS rack, which I de-powered per the method in the Archives. I also had a 300mm Momo wheel, which is very small. I really didn't feel the car was difficult to turn at all. If this is a track car, and this hydrolocking mentioned earlier tends to be an issue, I would just say lose the PS. I've never tried a manual rack. I've read they are 3.5 turns lock-to-lock, unlike the 2.5 of a de-powered PS rack, which may make a bigger difference in autocross.

 

I believe even the new greddy kits allow you to keep AC and PS, but the battery- not so sure.

Plenty of room in there for PS if one wanted it:

 

Well right now I am planning on the stock n370 with safcii assistance.

 

I was going to say that the AC circuit does run through the factory ECU, so removal requires jumping some wires to get the AC to function.