Background: 88 T2 : 157,000 New Clutch couple of months back.

Driving home last night, I stop at a red light, go to put car in 1st gear: No go : Try again no go. Car will not go into any gear !!!! First thought "Oh ****" it's damn cold out, and I left my cell in other truck !!! I try for several minutes no luck getting it into gear.

Car is still idling fine, just won't go into gear....

Pull (I mean push it ) off of the road into parking lot, still not going into gear.

Thought comes to me to turn car off....When off car will go into any gear, but not when running, so I using my its damn cold outside, and I am about 10-15 miles from home, I put the car in first, and then start guess what she rolls/bucks while starting but fires up and off I go I hobble her home trying everything I can to not have to come to a complete stop...I think PG County PO PO might be getting reports of a slow moving vehicle running redlights, but they don't show up to shoot my tires out, so I'm thinking I'm good.

Iget home, and park her no more problems.


I think my clutch might be gone, which is not good as I just replaced the damn thing less that 5000 miles ago.

This morning, once again car will go into any gear while not running, but not a one when idling, what gives ? Is it the clutch or could it be the tranny or what?

Still seems to be idling ok, started up in first gear just like last night so I could get her out of the cold and into garage.

any thoughts ? Comments ? Suggestions ?


Thanks

 

quick hunch: cluch slave line hose

 

Hydraulics not pushing the fork all the way (and holding it). Or pilot bearing. Or clutch disc disentigrated.

Have someone watch the slave cyl rod travel as you hold the pedal...it should move 1/2" and not creep back any until the pedal is released. IF this test fails, replace the master, slave, and hose.

IF you pass that, then we will hope it is your pilot bearing that has gone bad and spit some needles out, and locked onto the trans input shaft in the meantime. Put your e-brake on as tight as possible. Put the car in 1st gear. Depress the throttle. Hopefully your battery is nice and strong, if not, get a jumper. Of course the clutch pedal has to be pushed all the way in to start the car. Now crank it. Expect the car to lurch slightly and the starter to turn slow. What you are doing is breaking the pilot bearing's hold on the transmission input shaft. Hopefully the car starts and you can get the revs up which should take care of it. Once you notice it revs freely without "load" then you can try shifting in and out of gears.

IF that did not work, then either a) it was not actually the pilot bearing, you are no worse off than you were if you had not done the test, because the trans has to come off anyway

or b) the pilot bearing is so badly stuck that the trans will have to come off anyway, so again you are no worse off than you were had you not done the test.

 

first place to start is by checking to see if there is any clutch fluid left, next have an assistant press on the clutch pedal while you watch the clutch slave pushrod, if it is not moving then you have an issue with either the master or the slave, likely the master if there is no leaks in the system.

 

If the clutch hydraulics check out ok, my vote is for a broken pivot ball that holds the clutch fork.

 

[QUOTE=RotaryResurrection]

Put your e-brake on as tight as possible. Put the car in 1st gear. Depress the throttle. Hopefully your battery is nice and strong, if not, get a jumper. Of course the clutch pedal has to be pushed all the way in to start the car. Now crank it. Expect the car to lurch slightly and the starter to turn slow. What you are doing is breaking the pilot bearing's hold on the transmission input shaft. Hopefully the car starts and you can get the revs up which should take care of it. Once you notice it revs freely without "load" then you can try shifting in and out of gears.

How is this different from when I have started it...other than the e-brake being engaged. When I started it it did lurch, but fired up. is the goal to get the engine running with the car stationary, and unable to move ??

 

correct. We are guessing the pilot bearing has siezedm effectively joining the e-shaft and transmission shaft together, never allowing them to release. By locking the back wheels and turning the engine, we are trying to break that bond caused by the (assumed) bad bearing, allowing the engine and trans shafts to operate independently again, this will allow you to shift properly again.

I had this happen on one of my cars once...too much flame shooting at high revs in neutral at a car show tore the pilot bearing up. That is how I know this procedure can work.

 

you probably drove the car like **** and busted the pilot bearing!

Diagnosis complete.

 

check the clutch fluid.........same exact thing happened to me......it just needed DOT 3 fluid.

 

Thanks RR I'll follow your suggestion, afterwards, assuming it works is there anything else that I should be worried about. I assume that the bearing will have to be replaced.

I checked the clutch fluid level, all seemed fine, I will check the trans fluid when I can get her up on jackstands.

Thanks to those that posted useful info.

Kory: I take it from you uninformed opinion you must be psychic or something. Oh wait that would be wrong as you don't know me or my driving style, but since you provided no real info KISS OFF...

 

Should I plan on having to replace the pilot bearing?

If so, any idea how much that might run $$.

Thanks

 

have you checked the slave cylinder?

 

You can run without it indefinitely. It's function is to stabilize the tranny input shaft during higher rpm shifting, to save stress on the trans input shaft bearing. However, at this stage in the car/tranny's life, that bearing is worn somewhat already, so it is a moot point. Many people are driving on a missing pilot bearing right now, and dont even know it...the needles come apart and leave only the outer race, and usually dont give any indication of failure...but occasionally they fail and lock up.

IF you were a perfectionist, the argument could be made that the trans should come off and replace the bearing. The labor is the same as doing a clutch job to get to the bearing, which is inside the end of the eshaft.

I would never pull a working trans/clutch apart for just a pilot bearing, when it could still go 40k before it needs changed again.

 

Thanks RR I tried your suggestions, and I can now shift , I guess I'll try to go without replacing the part for now, but if I do that do I have to worry about any other problems as a result of this bearing issue ? I just replaced the clutch a few months back, can this bearing issue cause premature wear issues with the clutch?

I have not had an opportunity to check the slave cylinder, but will before she goes back on the road as my daily driver, just in case.


Thanks again

 

No.