rekx

my 10ae (s4 engine) was running before i put it away for the winter, and i decided to remove the vac rack. long story short, everything has been plugged, all gaskets save for the tb-tb elbow have been replaced, all sensors are plugged in, fuel lines are routed correctly and all vac hoses have been replaced. vac hoses were routed like this

lim nipple - FPR
top firewall nipple (capped, didnt have enough hose)
large middle nipple firewall side - oil injectors
bottom nipple firewall side - primary air bleed
top front nipple - pressure sensor
2 other front nipples are capped

capped the cold start assist

rerouted coolant line from rear housing to bacv

plugged TB where secondary plates and thermal wax were removed

wired up safc correctly, as well as a resistor box for gsl-se injectors.

sent the line from the intermediate housing to the charcoal, left oil filler neck open

set TPS to 1kohm at throttle closed, sweeps to 4.89k ohm when throttle open

afm plugged in

all pertinent sensors (i think) are plugged in, and the 2 lines off the IC are plugged in as well

. Anyhow, long story short, my car has only started twice and smokes like a bitch, doesn't hold idle on its on, and feels like its running on one rotor. When i manually turn the engine over, i can hear wooshes even with everything connected and the plugs in the engine. i pulled the plugs, and they are covered in both oil and gas. I cant for the life of me figure out what it is i did wrong!

thanks

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

pull the plugs and pull the egi fuse...and then crank the car over....a bunch of gas and oil and gunk should fly out of the spark plug holes ...then put new plugs back in and start her back up with the egi fuse back in...you car should run fine after this...sounds like one rotor got flooded....if this doesnt fix it...you might need to pull your injecters because they are leaking gas into the engine and flooding it...hopefully this will help. well good luck with this. Search the forum if you dont know how to pull and service your injecters there are plenty of helpful threads that explain how to do it. good luck
Ryan

rekx

sounds like you were right, i got it to start, but cant get it to idle. Im gonna see how to service my injectors now, if worse comes to worse ill throw them at a diesel shop and get them to do it!

is there something else it can be though? some solenoid or plug i may have forgotten to plug in somewhere?

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

well i am not a specialist with second generation s4 tII's but i am sure it has to do with a vacuum leak if your car can't hold an idle...also check your tps sensor...try searching for any kind of awkward noises in your engine bay

HAILERS

***bottom nipple firewall side - primary air bleed****

That is a mistake on a series four. That very bottom nipple should not go to the fuel injector airbleed. That nipple is the ONLY one on the back of the throttle body that pulls a vacuum FROM the throttle body.

The fuel injector bleeds are the ones that SUCK or are a source of vacuum, whichever way you want to put it. A source of VACUUM should NOT be going to the the fuel injector bleeds. It screws up the idle if you do.

The fuel injector bleeds are looking for a source of clean filtered air that comes PRIOR to the throttle plates. The top nipple on the back of the throttle body would be a good place to install that hose. Plug the bottom nipple on the throttle body so you don't have a vacuum leak.

rekx

sounds good, im gonna try that

thanks!

rekx

**fixed** AND theres a moral to the story

after fixing the lines, replacing the tb-tb elbow gasket (i permatexed it), moving that vac line, replacing the injector insulators and putting thermowax back on, my idle was still screwed. While i was test driving, i noticed that i hadn't adjusted the idle, so i did. Did help much but it did help.

So after much more cussing and cursing, i took it for another test drive and was monitoring the SAFC when i noticed that the correction at 800RPM was at -14%. HOLY SHITBRICKS i thought to myself, i must be the biggest idiot evar! I then remembered that i'd set it to that to get the car started after i had flooded it. Whoops., set the afc back to -6% and now the car idles like a champ.

anyhow, the moral of the story is, NO MATTER HOW GOOD YOUR workmanship is, always check the most OBVIOUS things first, even though sometimes they arent that obvious.

Thanks for all the help guys!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

changing the AFM signal (what an safc does) has nothing to do with the amount of fuel the ecu makes the injectors shoot during cranking for future reference.

Tofuball

Any idea what line that said airbleed comes out of on an S5?

Tofuball

To answer my own question: of the three nipples on the UIM, it's the top one ( I THINK! )