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Searched and i have a simple boost question

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Old 10-18-05, 12:20 PM
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Searched and i have a simple boost question

i know this up and down left and right...i know for a fact that yes stock boost guages arent accurate...BUT id like to know...what the +40 means how many Kpa/PSI is taht? my car almost hits the +40 mark now with hollowed cats...(i have a minor exhuast leak(only 2 bolts hold the precat(gutted precat and main cat) to the exhust housing.so i mean im worried that if i correct this problem it might have boost spike....(im getting an HKS FCD from a guy offa the forum...to help ) but i have the RB downpipe...thats not installed and that is probly going signifigantly increase power and boost...so what would my best options be at this point
(and yea i really do need a boost guage.....boost controller would be a good bet to lower spool time and most importantly control the amnt of boost?)

thanx guys! your always a great help!
Old 10-18-05, 12:32 PM
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Its a measurement called TORR or mmhg. Here is the conversion:

the +40 on your gauge actually represents 400 TORR or about 7.735 PSI. In kilopascal thats about 53.33, and in BAR (cause we are JDM like that), its about .52 or so.

Rat
Old 10-18-05, 12:38 PM
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It should say on tha gauge face "mmHg x 10".
That's millimeters of mercury times 10.
Full scale would be 450mm.
I think that's about 8.5 PSI.

WARNING - the FCD will fake out the ECU & the dash gauge.

Any intake & exhaust mods will then push your boost above what the ECU, pump, & injectors are programmed to handle.

Then- pinety ping, popety bang, end of motor. (BTDT)

Half the mods in my sig were needed to get me to 12 PSI on 93 octane.
I'm currently tuned for 10 PSI on 87.

Last edited by SureShot; 10-18-05 at 12:45 PM.
Old 10-18-05, 12:56 PM
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so with the catless stock exhuast....im assuming im pushin my luck boost wise and shouldnt do anything else until i get a boost controler and make it stick to 8lbs? or is 8lbs too much? thats crazy im bumpin like 7 lbs of boost...would it hitting the 40 be too much or is that as high as i should let it go?(until i get a boost guage..)


so i should use this as a model:

ported waste gate, TB mod, all emissions removed, TID, CAI
MBC w/solenoid bypass, FD fuel pump, 720 secondarys, S-AFC, HKS timer, FCD, AFR & boost gauges,

Last edited by --MAstermind--; 10-18-05 at 12:58 PM.
Old 10-18-05, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
It should say on tha gauge face "mmHg x 10".

I am pretty sure it already says that.
Old 10-18-05, 01:05 PM
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how much HP are u rockin at 12 lbs because it seems ur running stock TMIC and stock turbo...so with those modds it brings me some hope....
Old 10-18-05, 01:09 PM
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The ported waste gate is the big deal. It keeps your mods from creating uncontrolled boost.

A boost controller of any type can only RAISE boost.

All the other stuff is to keep the fuel supply up to the boosted air supply.
Old 10-18-05, 01:14 PM
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ah...but couldnt i tell it to hold boost at like 8lbs? and that help me out so i dont spike?
Old 10-18-05, 01:19 PM
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NO.

A boost controller can only RAISE boost, not lower it. If your running 12 psi without a boost controller, then with a boost controller you'll only be able to run 12 psi or higher. It will only raise boost above what your getting without it. And a electronic boost controller (even some high quality mechanical ones too) will make your turbo spool FASTER not slower.

PORT YOUR WASTEGATE

~Mike.............

Last edited by RacerXtreme7; 10-18-05 at 01:21 PM.
Old 10-18-05, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by --MAstermind--
how much HP are u rockin at 12 lbs because it seems ur running stock TMIC and stock turbo...so with those modds it brings me some hope....
As you noticed, the TMIC is my limiting factor.
My best pull with the G-tech was 220 net HP.
Depending on how you factor out drag losses, that comes to maybe 240 at the flywheel.
Old 10-18-05, 05:29 PM
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Surely you know if you run any more than 8.6 psi the rear rotor cuts of and you have to buy that fuel cut defender. But if your planin to stay at 8 your good.
Old 10-19-05, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
WARNING - the FCD will fake out the ECU & the dash gauge.
I don't know why a big deal gets made out of this. Fuel cut is at ~445mmHg which is off the top of the S4's gauge and right at the top of the S5's one. The FCD should hold the signal at a level just below this. So if you need a FCD then you need an aftermarket boost gauge anyway because the stock one can't read high enough (even if it was accurate). The stock gauge just becomes a "healthy MAP sensor" indicator. The fact that the FCD effects it's reading is irrelevant.
Old 10-19-05, 07:10 AM
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GOSH i do like this site very much i appreciate everything...poor thing my alternator siezed yesterday....and i need a double sheave pully for it so it doesnt happen again...i completely understand what i need to do now...alls i need is the monies for it all..or get a good deal.....

thank you all!
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