I've taken some more pics, these off my pulley mark, and cas settings, do they look right?

 

Please, anyone with input, I will listen.

 

Anyone?

 

Well, i checked the radiator while starting the car, and there wasn't any bubbles. But when the car made that out of timing burp, the coolant lvl dropped. ???

 

Well, I've silicone the coolant cap flanges, and tightened the tabs on the radiator caps, and took the car for a drive, and it didn't seem like I lost any coolant. :o)

Plus my exhaust had a leak at the donut flange, from raising and lowering the engine i suppose, I retightened that nut, being I only have 1, and the car seems to be running a little bit smoother.

So I might finally be in buisness..........

Thanks everyone, I couldn't have made it to this point without all of you guys help.

 

Well, I couldn't be that lucky. Yesterday, after putting maybe 20 miles on the car I checked the coolant once it cooled down, and bigger than sh*t, it had dropped again.

Where could this coolant be going, and how would I find out exactly where it is going? Because there are no visible leaks anywhere.

 

i would check the oil to make sure it not leaking into there, then check the plugs for anything that doesnt look normal

 

I've kept a close eye on the oil and everything is fine there.

You can see what my plugs looked like in post 339.

 

I'm thinking RTV'ing your rad caps was not such a good idea- you could have inhibited the valve/ spring functions of the cap (pressure release, vacuum relief)...

Is your overflow tank "adding" any coolant?

Also check under the water pump, leaks down in that area can be hard to spot...

 

No, I didn't rtv the cap, I rtv the cap flange that goes between the cap and the radiator, and also the cap flange that goes between the cap and the water pump housing.

I've looked all around the water pump, being I have just put a new one on a was checking to make sure the gasket and rtv setup correctly.

The overflow tank seems to be staying about the same.

 

not sure if anyone aready said this..too much to read..but did you bleed the air out? does your radiator have a bleeder valve? If so..use it to get most of the air out-open it while filling till fluid comes out of it then screw it shut..also make sure it closes all the way...then fill up the radiator as much as you can..cap it...Turn the heater on full blast...and drive the car for about 10-20 minutes adding coolant if needed...also, make sure you have a NEW radiator cap...you could be loosing fluid out the overflow since it fills or gets filled through that little hose near the cap..if the cap is bad the fluid will leak past it into the overlow....back to getting the air out...this can take a while and you will need to carry a bottle with you...and you are using the right mixture? Too much water can be a problem as it boils off(evaporates) and leaving air pockets that can cause your car to overheat since they have a tendancy to slow the coolant from flowing around properly....I had the same problem and it took me two-three weeks to get the air out..I filled about a cup or two every time I drove the car( i only drive it 2-3 times a week max)

 

I have added more than a gallon of water in this past week to the coolant system (no more than 50 miles).
I'm ashamed to admit that right now I am running straight water, because I can't afford the costs of the mix. :o(

I know, everyone's thinking.... he's poor, and his daily driver is an rx-7.....what's he smokin'?

 

any news yet?

 

Update, the coolant level still drops fairly regularly, I haven't tried the flourescent die test yet. But I can drive it quite a bit before it really need some more. I've probably only put 75-100 miles on the car since the repair.

The oil and water are not mixing at all anymore. So the freeze out was the problem to begin with.

I need to get another timing light and some fresh plugs. Because the car still just doesn't seem like it's running right. I've had to adjust the idle up, just to keep it from dying at stop lights and stuff. And it wants to die when I try to take off when it's cold.
The car, when accellerating, has a bad bog down spot right at 4k. Worse if the car is cold. What's that?

If I could just get it running good again, I can start working on the physical aspects of the car. The body does need some work.( why do people gotta key cars, and to top it off press so hard it leaves a crease in the metal? ) It's sad, the previous owner must've really pissed someone off.

 

I haven't checked this thread since the week it started, can anyone provide cliff notes to update me?

 

Cliff notes....he he

I think the coolant level is stabilizing. :o)

My timing seems to be a bit more on, cars running smoother...

 

isn't it bad to run these cars without thermostat?

 

mixed opinions, i suggest if you live in a cold climate keep it, i live in fl. and it takes a couple more minutes to get to operating temp with out it

 

Yeah, I just pull the thermostat out from may-august/september, then I put a new one in for winter.
I've done this in my past 2 7's as well, and haven't seemed to affect the car much, other than a little extended warm up time.

 

the 4000 bog down is probably the 3800rpm hesitation described in the FAQ, basically you some grounds on your engine are dirty and need some cleaning.

 

Yeah, I first noticed it when I replaced the clutch. So it being a ground makes sense. I will have to check this. Thanks Parastie.

 

While working on my exhaust today, up under the hot *** car, I hot a drip of coolant land on me. :o)
I think I have found the small coolant leak, it is the lower rad hose, where it connects to the inlet housing.
I didn't notice it before because it isn't coming out much, and as soon as it hits the engine it is evaporating.
This is great news that there isn't any internal leaks......woohoo.

 

did it arouse you when that coolant dripped on your head?

 

he he, I wasn't quite that happy, but pretty close.

I fixed the leak today, coolant seems to be holding steady.

How's your car doing Jacob?

 

its doing great. come check it out