If you do have to do the repair, it really won't take you as long as it did me, I didn't have the right tools, and was learning as i went.

I almost gave up a couple times, but thanks to everyone here, I made it through it. :o)

thanks everyone!!!

 

just read all 21 pages...in one sitting..good job man...glad it all worked out!!

 

Yeah let us know if that worked for fixing the leak and if you got it timed right.

 

the water pump was wizzing, I'm gone to get another one.

 

I got the new pump and got it installed, and in record time i might add. I started the car again and let it run a little bit, and amazingly enough.....no leaks!!! woohoo!

 

I really don't want to run the car for more tyhan a few minutes, until I get another water temp sensor.
I'm not gonna be able to get a timing light tonight, being my transportation for the night has gone. But I'll probably get out there and fiddle with it for a little while to see what I can do by hand.
The throttle has like a half second lag before it responds to me hitting the pedal. So it's definately off.

 

Well, I fiddled with the cas, and got the timing about as close as I could by hand. Can't do anymore tonight.

Wish I had a meat thermometer, so I could at least get an idea of the coolant temperature. :o(

 

Very nice job sir. lol, i know how the whole record time thing goes, i thought i fubared something so i was able to tear it all back down in under 45min (and thats with the front cover off) same with the water pump housing.

Rule of thumb:

You know you own an RX-7 when you can set record times with repairs on your car.

 

Congrats, Gnome, I'm happy for ya

If you have one "laying around", get a 2 kilo-ohm resister (or so) and use it to short the two terminals on the harness plug for the thermo sensor. This will at least tell the ECU that the "output" is in the ballpark, and will allow you to run the engine for a little bit without worry (it will "tell" the ECU that your water temp is about 75*F)...Or, just leaving it disconnected will throw the ECU into the 176*F "fail-safe mode".

I discovered by trial and error I could get the timing within 5 degrees just by ear while "playing" with the CAS- just turn it clockwise till she starts "stumbling", then turn it back counter-clockwise about 1/4" (measuring at the stud), and you'll be damn close...Don't go romping on her yet, though, until you get a light on her

 

I would do that, but whether or not this fixed the problem is dependent upon the operating temperature of the car.
It's hard to determine at this point, whether the car is good to go or not. Being there is still much sludge in both systems.

I have a question, after the engine runs for about a minute, the water lvl sensor buzzes(and coolant is still full), is it possible that the sensor is being tripped by the oil that are still in my coolant.

 

jus clean that **** up. you need to do it anyway. then tell us ifthat was the reason or not. Fix your car.

 

no that wont cause the coolant level sender to buzz. unplug the coolant level sender and ground the wire to somewhere on the frame. if the buzzer stops buzzing, then the sender is messed up (provided that the radiator is still filled to the top with coolant)
if the buzzer still buzzes with the wire grounded, there is a short somewhere between where its grounded and the warning light cluster. (this is what happened to mine)

 

You got that ***-backwards, Jacob...The sensor grounds itself through the coolant to stay off...So, your right, just reverse everything you said

 

Gnome- if your coolant is still THAT nasty, it could be affecting thelevel sensor, since oil "attempts" to float on water. Don't tell me with all this excitement you've been going through that you actually left that gunk in your engine and cooling systems while doing the repair...Naw, you wouldn't do that...Flush that sucker with distilled water, at least two or three times, until you see no more oil "sheen" on the surface in the radiator...

 

i don't see where i said anything backwards. ???

if its buzzing and you unplug the sensor, ground the wire, and its still buzzing, then the wiring is messed up.
if it stops buzzing after grounding to the frame and the radiator is still filled with coolant, the sensor is messed up...

 

I've flushed the system more times than I can count. But I'll keep at it until I get it all.
I'm gonna go check that sensor.

 

I now have a timing light, but have never actually used one. Can you guys help me figure it out?

 

Oh yeah, and thanks to Mr. Gadget I have another water temp sensor on the way. Should have it in a couple days.
So for now I need to get this timing thing fixed.

 

Well, does it have 2 little clips, red and black, to connect to the battery posts, and then another thing-a-ma-bob that clips around the plug wire?

 

Yes it has battery clips and a magneting looking thing that i guess goes on the spark plug wire, it also has 0-60 degree advance thing.

 

I know I should like an idiot right now, I've just evere used one before, and can't find the information in the fsm.\

 

Start the car, make sure the idle rpm falls to about 750, connect the battery power leads, clip the pickup sensor around the L1 plug wire, and it should start flashing (pretty lights, mmm...). Aim it at your timing marks on your pulley, and you should see the yellow (right side) mark somewhere around the pin on the front cover with the strobe pulses...If not, remove the pickup, take a breath, count to three, dance a jig, whatever, and put it back on. Now see if the marks are there (don't know why the inductive timing lights "lose" the mark on our rotaries, but they do). Turn the CAS if needed to line up the yellow mark perfectly with the pointer. That's it, you're done...I don't know about the 0-60 advance thing, I guess set it to zero...

 

Okay, I will give that a go.

 

I guess it's set, starts pretty quick and idles smoothly. Thanks Wayne.

And I tested the water lvl sensor, and it goes off when grounded. Also when it's connected, it stops buzzing when I am flushing the system out, but starts buzzing again after I put the cap back on it and it runs for a few seconds. I guess it's just fowled out by the oil??

 

Alright I have an update. I took the car for it's first test drive just about an hour ago. And after about 20 minutes of running it. Here are the results:

*Water lvl is maintaining full, and water lvl sensor has finally stopped buzzing. (I'm assuming it was just gunked up with the oil, and once the car was at operating temperature, it stopped buzzing.
*Oil lvl is staying at full, not rising or lowering.
*Timing is still off, and the car is missing a bit, even though I have set the marks.
*Water temperature never rose above 1/3 mark (no thermostat)
*My throttle is sticking a bit when I give the car gas. And it seems it's from the linkage bar that goes down near the OMP.
*My oil pressure light is reading all the way up on the gauge, even if the car isn't running (some short or something)

But all in all, so far it seems the problem I originally set out to fix, has been fixed. So the repair was successful. The water and oil is no longer mixing. I am having a few problems getting everything working the way it did before disassembly, but hopefully I'll get it all working again.

One thing that is worrying me, is I hear this sound when I rev the engine, that I don't remember from before. I am worried that it might be the t-bearing because there was so much emphasis made about it.
So does anyone know what kind of sound this would be like? And what kind of damage will be caused from the bearing dropping?