Is the car pretty hard to start and is it very heasitant?

 

Yes, it's hard to start. When driving it still accelerates okay though.

 

I'm a tard. I didn't even know what plug was L1.

But Wayne, you say L1 and L2 fire at the same time so it shouldn't matter that I was setting the timing from L2?

Would this be the reason, that what I thought was T1 was actually T2, and wasn't lining up with the mark?

 

And I already took back the timing light.....ugh!!

 

T1 and T2 are the same so it doesnt matter which of those two you check the timing from, they should read the same.

also make sure you remember that L are the bottom plugs and T are the top plugs

 

Yeah, I did know that much. But what would make the Trailing plug not line up?

 

Gnome, since you don't have the timing light anymore, you can't actually check L1 and T1 again. Besides, with an inductive light, our trailing systems sometimes like to screw with the timing light's head, so to speak...How do your plugs look? Did you install new ones? Are you certain that your plug wires are connected correctly (trailing if swapped will create problems)? It's easy enough to match marks on the trailing coil terminal covers with the rotor housing marks, just remember T1 is the front housing...If she's running rough at idle, try "tweaking" the CAS to a point where she's running well, then take her for a spin again and see if any change in performance is noted. If she's running well at idle, but crappy with loads on the engine, it might be something else entirely. Hard to start how? Takes longer to fire up, have to push the peddle to the floor, etc...?

 

Giving you a bump, plus letting you know that T1 and T2 are NOT the same, as was stated in a previous post, they fire at different times (it's L1 and L2 that fire simultaneously).

So, if you set your timing using the L2 wire and the yellow mark, you should be damn close. If you happened to use the T2 wire to check the red trailing mark, and it wasn't close, no biggie- you were using the wrong plug wire. If the leading (yellow) mark is good using a leading wire, your timing is not your problem (unless something really weird is happening here)...

 

I was able to get the marks right when I stabbed the cas, but yeah, I noticed after setting the timing, that I could turn the cas and the engine seemed to smooth out a bit, but I've yet to try to drive it after doing that. I haven't changed the plugs, because I am just flat broke, and $30-$40 on plugs is just out of budget. I do know the plug wires are right, because I never removed them during the repair. I'll go out and fiddle with it tonight.

 

Thanks for helping me out.

 

At the very least pull the leading plugs & give 'em a good cleaning, you don't know what kind of gunk you were combusting in there for a while with that "mixture thing" you had going on...

 

sounds about right. @ kragen around here ngk plugs are like 20$ for a set.

 

I'll give these a good cleaning. I'll be sure to take some before and after pics. he he

 

I've cleaned the plugs up pretty good, the pis below are in this sequence:
T1, L1, T2, L2

 

Nasty aren't they.
But even after cleaning them up, and fiddling with the cas some more, it didn't seem to make any difference. But I'm sure it didn't hurt any.
The car is still running rough.

And I've noticed that after running the car for a bit, I'm losing some coolant. I can see any major leaks or drips, and the oil level isn't rising. The only thing I have noticed is around the coolant caps, a little water is getting out. But Is it possible to loose a couple pints of coolant, in 30 minutes of driving just from that?

 

have you tried starting the car cold with the radiator cap off?

 

What do you mean exactly?

 

maybe you have a bad coolant oring...

if you start the car with the radiator cap off and it bubbles, you have problemos

 

I broke that bolt off yesterday with a 3/8 drive rachet. Broke 1, but the second one broke the bolt loose. We also had forgetten to do that before we pulled the motor, so we had to do it with the motor out of the car.

 

That sucks.

 

I'm not running a thermostat, does that matter when it comes to this? And where is this coolant o-ring?

 

Gnome-it might be something simple, like a bad cap gasket (especially since you've probably removed & reinstalled the thing a million times in the last month), so take it off & look at that first...

The center electrodes on your plugs look like they have a LOT of mileage on them- you'll see what I mean when you get new ones & compare 'em. By the time they start "rounding" off like that, your gap is getting beyond efficient running...If anything, get a couple of leading plugs for now, like $12 at the auto parts store...

 

Excellent Idea.

 

As soon as get a couple bucks, I'm gonna get the leading plugs, and some replacement radiator caps. Right now I'm going to rtv the radiator cap flange to the body, and the same for the same for the water pump housing cap.

 

I'm starting to get discouraged again. This is really sucking. I drove the car earlier today for about 20 minutes, and then again this evening, and the water level buzzer went off, and the temp rose above the half mark. The car is running real rough, and once warmed up, it doesn't even want to idle.