mop?

 

What is good to use to break up and the gunk?

 

Thanks amur. I was kinda worried about those lines. :o)

 

Cheap engine degrease and/or gasoline. I would go with the degrease, works a bit better. Might have to get a wire brush as well though.

 

Yeah the engine compartment is pretty grungy Wayne. Thanks for the compliment on the pan, I really coated it thick.

And to think this was my best shirt..........he he

 

I hope to get a vert one day, yours looks pretty nice parastie.

 

Oh yeah, looks nice from far away. But she needs new paint, new top, new seats, new tires. Thanks to Dan Atkins she no longer leeks coolant but there's still the oil leek that i need to remedy...eventually I'll have her fixed up though.

 

MOP- Metering Oil Pump, also called the Oil Metering Pump (OMP). I guess it depends on whether you're from Texas or not, lol...

The CAS can wait until you've damn near got everything else back together, then we'll help you with that, it's not hard at all, as long as you marked the pulley with the timing marks on it before you removed it, and then reinstall it exactly the same way....If you didn't, we can still help out, it'll just be a little more complicated, but no sweat- don't lose sleep over it

 

I know someone right now that has a vert, and can't get it started. Maybe i can pick it up for cheap. :o)

 

Thank god, becuase I forgot to mark anything, and after taking the stuff apart, i though to myself with the way the gears are, there is a possible 30+ positions it could set in. I'm glad to know it can be figured out without the marks, thanks again Wayne.

 

So where is the metering oil pump?

 

Lol, it's that thingy with the oil lines coming off of it that you were asking about earlier...

You're going to need a flashlight & a small swivel mirror to see the rear rotor apex seals through the spark plug holes, since you didn't mark that pulley...Just a "heads up"

 

ewwww.........that sux, kinda like searching for tdc huh?

 

That's exactly what you're going to be doing- might as well read up on it a little

The good thing is, all you have to do is get it in the ballpark, then line up your pulley holes with the bolt holes on the e-shaft that come the closest to having your timing marks near the pointer on the front cover (that make any sense?)

 

Man, I've already threadlocked the main nut, and isn't the main pulley of the shaft on a cotter pin?

 

And you lost me after you wrote: 'might as well read up on it a little '

 

Lol, don't worry about it for now, it'll all make sense to you when you get to that point...I said nothing about the main nut (or bolt, you mean?)

 

Where do you find this small mirror?

 

But if i can't find the mirror, I have narrowed the e shaft location to 1 of 4 positions based off the pictures i have taken. Yeah, i've been trying to think of solutions. he he
And i'm relaxing drinking beer......

 

No wonder, that explains everything (drinking beer), lol...

Somebody might know what position that e-shaft keyway should be in (3 o'clock, etc...) with everything at TDC, if you can remember where yours is in relation. There's a writeup on this somewhere, in fact someone just had a thread going on this a couple of days ago...

Drink some more, and don't get in a frenzy over this at this point

 

Tomorrow is a new day.

 

Alright, I'm about to start working on the car again, and found a picture i think might help with the timing, this picture was taken before the Crank angle was removed. Can I use the mark at the top of the fan mount to determine tdc?

 

I don't believe that's TDC. You don't even want to set it to TDC to stab the CAS. I think that matches up with the leading timing mark, but I can't remember exactly. You can just put a bolt or two on the front pulley and line it up that way, then stab the cas (remove the top plastic cover on the CAS, then line it up with the dot, and LOOK at the top so when you are pushing it in place you can verify that it doesn't move as you push it down), then you're all set.

 

Okay, well I'll finish installing the rest of the stuff and then come back for some more help.

 

Yes, when you put your front pulles on (they only go on one way) you line it up with the timing mark (as shown in the FSM) and then you line up the CAS and drop it in. Your timing at that point should be pretty dead on.