But isn't that supposed to stay in place as long as the clutch stays pressed down.
With the way my luck has been going for the past couple months, I really don't want to do anything unless it's an absolute necessity.
You know that old saying about letting sleeping dogs lie.

 

Yeh, just follow Sonic's advise and leave 'em alone then...

The problem with keeping the clutch down for long periods, is if you have a microscopic leak past the master or slave internal seals, sooner or later the clutch will "disengage", even with the peddle down. How old are your master/ slave seals?

 

And i can use RTV on the water pump housing, water pump, and thermostat right?
So basically all i need to get is the front cover seal, o-ring, and freeze out?

 

Ewww.......
I don't know, I've never touched them.

 

Man that sux

 

What would i look at to see if the clutch has actually engaged, without removing the pressure from the clutch?

 

You can just look at the slave cylinder, and by how far extended the arm is off it. It should be extended about 1 1/2" or so.

 

I'll check that now. Thanks.

 

I didn't see the arm you're talking about.

 

Follow the line from the clutch master cylinder, and on the top of the tranny you'll see the slave cylinder. It should have a shaft that extends out of it (the arm I was speaking of, it's covered with a boot) and it presses on a little tab that sticks out the top of the tranny.

 

Oh duh, gotcha.

 

I can't get to it, everything is still in the car.

 

if your going to have this apart for a while, reassemble the front stack except for the front cover and oil pump chain. torque the bolt to only about 20 ft lbs (clean off the loctite first). this way everything stays in position while your parts are comming (I shipped the freebee's earlier today for you). I'll post a pic tonight. I have a motor on the stand I just rebuilt yesterday i set the front pack on, but got too lazy to finish the long block assembly. It will show you waht I am talking about.

 

hey, thanks for the freebee's. I really appreciate it!
I don't have a torque wrench, so what would feel close (doing it by hand) to that torque you specified

 

Is this how you mean I should put everything back together......I haven't put any torque on the bolt yet......

 

Well a storm has blown in, so I'm prolly done for the day. I just put the nut on and with a wrench, hit it a couple times to make it snug. Hope that does it.

 

Nope, you need to put the pulley on with it, the pulley is what provides the pressure, just putting the bolt on won't do anything. The pulley will press against the CAS/omp gear, and hold it all in places.

 

Damn, out in the storm I go.

 

Okat got it on.
I have another question. When i first started this job, the bottom fell out of the charcoal canister...is this a vital component, or can it be bypassed and removed?

 

The gas tank vents to it, and the charcoal helps filter the fumes, IIRC the purge valve also runs to it. I'm sure you can pick one up for free from someone on here, as most people ditch them/etc.

 

Thanks

 

Here is what it should look like (except I dont have the oil pump chain on)

 

Thanks for the picture.

 

I just got done ordering the parts from mazdatrix. But they didn't carry the small freeze out I needed.
I guess i'm gonna see if Dan Atkins has it.

 

Excellent, just got off the phone with Dan Atkins, and I got the parts on their way. I kinda feel bad that I didn't get the other parts I needed from him. He was very helpful and genuinely nice.
I think from now on I'll be checking with them for my parts first.

Thanks Dan!