Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

Im considering it... but in a way not sure if its for me. We all love and desire high hp potential. Yet I love having my car comfortable for daily.*enough creature comforts, yes my car is low and all fiberglass but still comfortable driving everywhere*. My goals are to hit 300hp, esp with this hybrid turbo im building. And due to the fact i may need to rebuild since my engine is not running.

I notice pineapple perhaps makes the best templates.
How much does a small or medium street port affect gas millage? is it even noticeable? and what tools are needed for the job?

Who here has one ? could you give me some input on if you like it etc

Bigger fuel injectors are of course a must as well as engine management.. I figure I can baby the car with all this til funds pick up to afford a stand alone while going through the break in period. Looking at upgrading my rtek 1.5 to a 1.8 or so when i get injectors to tide me over til i get something better as far as management.

Thanks

AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

I have a mild street port using Racing beat templates. I can't really compare to stock as my engine was street ported by the P.O. I can tell you that it sounds real nice with catless turbo back. And it pulls nicely. Sorry for the lousy help.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

gas mileage won't really drop much, it just requires a little more fuel at lower RPMs at stop lights to get the car going from a dead stop. on the freeway you won't notice any loss of fuel mileage if the car is tuned properly.

i use the racing beat templates also but port the exhaust ports slightly differently for most applications.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the help guys, thats good to hear lol.

Karack what tools did you use? Im really debating to take this on since ive been unemployed for soo long not sure i can afford to do this right now but if im gonna rebuild, would be nice to just do it.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

having built tons of engines, and done a couple of ported VS non ported cars, i'd have to say building an engine with NEW parts makes more difference than a port does.

ive done a few engines with all new housings + rotors, and these just run better.

if you want to port, a SMALL street port seems to have no downsides, mileage stays the same or better, low end power stays the same or better.

my friend has a big port template and a small one, and the small one makes more power. 390@12psi vs 380@15psi.

especially with a stockish turbo the ports, intake, and exhaust all have to work together.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

trace the outline with a sharpie and get a straight air die grinder with a carbide cutting bit, i use the oval shaped one for the quickest cutting of the outlines then switch to a smaller rounded head bit for fine touching up of the formation of the iron porting. you can use the oval bit for all of the exhaust porting up until the sanding roll step.

once the outline is done i get my dremel and use the larger sanding rolls to smooth out the surfaces, then either a small sanding roll(they have been discontinued now) or porting sand rolls from harbor freight to get the angles smoothed out.

the carbide cutting burrs work very well for reaming out the exhaust ports, just don't go too fast with the die grinder speed or it will foul out the burr with aluminum filings and you'll be picking them out far too often.. do the final touch up with the dremel sanding roll for the inside of the exhaust port. for the exhaust port bevel i use a metal cutting stone that has a v shape with the dremel, you can also use it to smooth out the trailing edge on the iron ports also. i bevel the trailing side of the port about 4mm and down to about 2mm at the lower edge of the port sides, the bottom edge of the exhaust port opening doesn't need a bevel.

the only spot you have to be careful with is the wall against the center of the iron, i try to avoid touching the top lip as much as possible, cutting too much into this area causes the oil seal to overlap the port and suck oil into the port. also on the trailing(wide) edge of the intake port you have to be careful to not make the angle too shallow or take off too much material so that you go into the water jacket on the other side.

i don't go massive on the ports, the main point is to get the air into the engine faster, not trying to cram as much in there as possible(extremely large ports). mainly because your intake runners are already restricting the flow because they are a smaller diameter than a huge port opening will allow flow to be, this has negative effects on power, i try to backcut the ports as much as possible. look at the opening in the port on the side of the housing, stock you can barely see the opening side in the engine side. backcutting the underside of the port opens up the airflow path much more than making the port massive does. seeing more daylight through the port towards the rotor means the air passing through has a more direct route into the engine with less resistance.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

for 300hp you really dont need porting..

i hit 300 with stock turbo/ports and now i am pushing 400 with the BNR stage 4 on stock ports. if my engine ever blows, i will probably even rebuild without porting.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

porting works if it is working with everything else correctly. porting a motor and putting everything stock on is not going to get you much but it is beneficial if everything else is tailored to it.

some guys have made 500RWHP on stock ports, but i wouldn't say that porting those engines wouldn't have allowed them to make more power. but i've also seen some guys do massive ports with stock manifolds, which is just dumb IMO.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

indeed karack, it all depends on the entire setup!

my reason for staying stock would be the ease of rebuilding.
if you have a ported motor and one iron is junk, its pretty hard to duplicate unless you have a template

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

think an electric die grinder like this will be good?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...aft-44141.html

im thinking it may be long making it difficult to maneuver ?

Justen

iTrader: (12)

yeah, you might want a smaller one. or if you happen to have a decent compressor, the use the air die grinder from harborfreight. IDEALLY I would say you'd want to be able to hold the grinder somewhat like you hold a pen or pencil, that way you can rest your hand against the irons and housings as you do them... Gives you more stability/precision, and less chance of slipping and dinging up the surface.

Listen to Karack's advice.
The only thing i would say to do differently is that, when starting, shade the WHOLE area around the port with a sharpie or Dykem. THEN lay the template on top of the housing/iron, and use a small sharp pick to make your line by tracing (scratching) along the border of the new port-template. The line you made will scratch up the Dykem ink and show you where your porting boundaries are....

This will be a lot more precise than just tracing the borders with a sharpie. AND it will ensure that both ports are exactly the same, because the key to getting the most out of a port-job is getting the corresponding ports to be the same size and shape.

Justen

iTrader: (12)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiTkv0bGvh8
at around 0:54 you can see him laying the Dykem on the surface. When you scratch that, it leave you guide porting boundaries

I used the dvd with pineapple Medium Streetport, love it so far

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

i got a 21 gal harborfreight air compressor *i recently discovered it has been filling up low, and adjusted it to the proper 125psi tank pressure*, also didnt realize my air hose might be too long/big affected the air pressure. So im gonna see about trying to correct this, then perhaps a air die grinder.. but still gotta see, i want to crack this motor open first and decide from there.

Justen

iTrader: (12)

wait a minute...
I have the 21 gallon harborfreight air compressor.
...which only pressurizes the tank to about 95-100psi

Please share with me how you adjusted this.

lol

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

saw this about a week ago
they dont come properly setup out of the box.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkOPw4GAZf8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd8DmgBZIFw
he suggested to change the safety relief valve, i put a 140psi valve on mine.

this is good too, guy made some tweaks to it
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=23411

I took off the cylinder head and gave it a port job with a dremel since there was some cast flashing in there anyways.. I never timed b4 and after so i cant say the difference. But in that link, i think the changing of the air filter makes a difference in making it quiet but i have yet to get one.

I think my air hose is killing my cfm though, some air tools have instant pressure but then the air flow fades out a little so i think its related to the hose.

Justen

iTrader: (12)

wow. Great info, thanks.
I'll probably do the same with a dremel when I change the oil for this season.
I think mine actually has a paper filter, but its still loud as all hell.
And as far as your cfm drop-off, I would think that the increased pressure would help that a bit?

Turns out that I did my whole porting job with a de-powered compressor.
You'll be knocking yours out in half the time it took me

88SE_HI

iTrader: (2)

Some good info in this thread.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

so for a mild/medium street port, are you guys just grinding out the template area and then just smoothing out the inside of the port to meet it or are you porting the inside of the port too (like where the manifold meets and up to the port)? I don't know the proper terminology. I don't know if just opening up the port with a template on the rotor side is good enough, or if you actually need to port the inside too for this kind of port to be effective. I am a porting noob but want to try porting on my turbo rebuild.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

for the OP's goals he'd be better off putting the money toward replacing seals or housings with better parts

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I use a 40 grit sandpaper roll there. I don't enlarge the runners. Just match the lower intake manifold to the irons and you'll be good. so s4 irons to s4 manifolds, s5 irons to s5 manifolds. s5 and FD engines have a little bit larger runners

Justen

iTrader: (12)

yes, you probably want to smooth out the "inside" (intake runners), but you generally don't wanna make that hole any larger.

If anything, just match up the size of the intake runner hole with the lower manifold hole.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I have used the "real" version of that electric die grinder and it works fine. However, using everything from one of those to an air grinder to a Dremel for porting, I have to say that I prefer my Dremel and a cheap set of mounted grinding stones. I find I can make much better ports with a smaller tool.

Plus it is *so* nice not to have an noisy compressor running all the time.

You may find this video where I port my Cosmo irons and housings helpful in demonstrating general porting technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1Gy5sVMK3o

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info guys. what if I I'm using an s5 t2 mani and turbo on an s4 t2 motor?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

i changed the quick release fittings on the compressor themself to a high flow quick release fitting.. Made a huge difference. the old one was probably crapped up over time. Im confident about doing this now with that.


Now I also read about doing it with a dremel. I have one of the $80 variable speed dremels that I used when i modded and shaved the tb. Will that work? i read somewhere about someone using a dremel but the dremel failing while doing it. So Aaron, I can just get away with using a dremel?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

picked up a die grinder
Same one here, interesting how this guy ported it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fhpe4nfw5vA

Anyways, Im trying to source out the carbide cutting bits, any good online source, looked on ebay and amazon but dont think Ive seen the right ones.

Ordered pineapple racing medium streetport and ep2a exhaust templates.