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Say goodbye to engine flooding!!!!

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Old 01-15-12, 05:13 PM
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Hot start issues....

I am having major hot start issues. New injectors, temp sensors, plugs, wires, no vacuum leaks, NEW tps in spec, etc. I still have to cut the fuel pump after it is warm or it won't unflood. I even have the rtek chip that is supposed to cut the fuel pump at wot start, but for some reason is ineffective...? I have to cut power to the fpump, or no start... I haven't replaced the temp sensor in the radiator yet... Could that be the issue??
Old 01-16-12, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bigolsen
I am having major hot start issues. New injectors, temp sensors, plugs, wires, no vacuum leaks, NEW tps in spec, etc. I still have to cut the fuel pump after it is warm or it won't unflood. I even have the rtek chip that is supposed to cut the fuel pump at wot start, but for some reason is ineffective...? I have to cut power to the fpump, or no start... I haven't replaced the temp sensor in the radiator yet... Could that be the issue??
I did say "good bye too flooding forever".

I spliced a brake light switch into the fuel wire coming out of the ecu that is only active during starting and put the brake light switch in the passing gear switch hole on the gas pedal. So all I do is floor it when the car is warm during starting and it cuts the fuel and starts. This wire is not active except during starting. This has worked perfectly for 20 years.

I have posted this before.
Old 01-17-12, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Wms10th
I did say "good bye too flooding forever".

I spliced a brake light switch into the fuel wire coming out of the ecu that is only active during starting and put the brake light switch in the passing gear switch hole on the gas pedal. So all I do is floor it when the car is warm during starting and it cuts the fuel and starts. This wire is not active except during starting. This has worked perfectly for 20 years.

I have posted this before.
Passing gear switch hole?...
Sounds like you've had the issue since your car was almost new then?
Old 01-17-12, 03:00 PM
  #29  
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Pin 3B is a Black/Blue wire on the small plug of the series four ECU. '

This wire is a INPUT wire TO the ECU from the START circuit (key to START).

If the ECU sees batt voltage on 3B, then the ECU does not use the AFM for fuel but instead uses an internal start fuel map for fuel delivery as long as the rpms are under ??? 500 rpm.

IF the ECU never sees this batt power on 3B, then the ECU uses the AFM for fuel during Start. This results in much LESS fuel being delivered during START and this in turn prevents flooding during HOT starts.

But lack of said batt voltage during COLD starts (on 3B) will result in more difficult starts when the engine is stone cold.

So if one rigged a switch to the gas pedal and that switch when "made" (circuit completed), would interrupt the power to 3B if the pedal is held down.............................................. .that would make sense to me why your not having HOT start problem when you hold the gas pedal down.

I was confused when I read the above post because I saw the word BRAKE switch. But when I realized he was using a brake switch for this application then it made sense. Any switch would do the same thing. It's the word BRAKE SWITCH that threw me off. Has nothing to do with the switch on the brake pedal at all.

This actually mimics what the series five does when you hold the pedal all the way to the floor to prevent flooding...........but on this applicaton mentioned above {It Does Not Cut Fuel}, it only limits the amount of fuel delivered during Start. Series five actually cut the fuel when the gas pedal is HELD to the floor.

See the Series four Training manual on how this works during START sequence.

Passin gear switch hole on the gas pedal??? Sounds like a automatic car/pedal. I must go look at my gas pedals someday to see wha this thing is.
Old 01-17-12, 03:21 PM
  #30  
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I was having major hot start issues.... the car simply would not start when hot regardless of fuel quantities. The only way to make it start was by pull starting to over 1k rpm.
This was explained by rotary aviation to me (I had their apex seals): since my motor had been detonated and the seals over heated/stressed, they would not keep their shape when hot...
I don't know if that would affect other types of apex seals or not.
Old 01-18-12, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bigolsen
Passing gear switch hole?...
Sounds like you've had the issue since your car was almost new then?
Since '91, when the previous owner had it. I was the Service Manager at the dealership. This problem became widespread when Kali started using "winter gas". I devised the fix for it by using his(my) car as the pilot for that repair. We did that repair that way for more than 10 years.

All FC's have a hole for the passing gear switch. On a stick shift it is open.
Old 01-18-12, 01:10 PM
  #32  
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technically you could also just use the brake switch and tap into the wiring for that to trigger the input for pin 3B(well thinking about it, might not as you have to hold down the clutch and may need your second foot for throttle control).

but all that aside, i find the 3B pin to not always work with every car, the fuel pump cut off switch or some other method to cut off the pump has always been a more reliable method to leaning out the mixture enough to get the engine to start consistently even on series 5 cars.

even RX8's aren't immune to the same flooding issues, i have had to deflood 2 8's in the past 2 months. if you think these cars are a pain to deflood, try a renesis.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-18-12 at 01:14 PM.
Old 01-18-12, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wms10th
Since '91, when the previous owner had it. I was the Service Manager at the dealership. This problem became widespread when Kali started using "winter gas". I devised the fix for it by using his(my) car as the pilot for that repair. We did that repair that way for more than 10 years.

All FC's have a hole for the passing gear switch. On a stick shift it is open.
I don't remember seeing this hole... Is it just a hole where you can put the switch?
My car is in my shop right now.I'll have to go look and see what youre talking about..
It must be a hole that was there for automatics under the gas pedal so when you floored it it would shift down??

Last edited by bigolsen; 01-18-12 at 03:09 PM. Reason: thought about it
Old 01-18-12, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigolsen
I don't remember seeing this hole... Is it just a hole where you can put the switch?
My car is in my shop right now.I'll have to go look and see what youre talking about..
It must be a hole that was there for automatics under the gas pedal so when you floored it it would shift down??
Yes, it is there, on top of the pedal, not under it. The switch screws in. The factory switches,brake light switch,clutch switch for the cruise control and kick down switch, all will screw in that hole.It's just a matter of picking one that is normally open or normally closed. You want the one that is normally closed.
Old 01-19-12, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Wms10th
Yes, it is there, on top of the pedal, not under it. The switch screws in. The factory switches,brake light switch,clutch switch for the cruise control and kick down switch, all will screw in that hole.It's just a matter of picking one that is normally open or normally closed. You want the one that is normally closed.
Oh, I see. Good info!

Thanks!
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