Saving her from hurricane sandy
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Before i start its an 88 s4 n/a gxl. Gonna ask a bunch of questions
So I've finally been able to pick up my car from my dads place after hurricane sandy hit him (lives on the beach) don't ask why I left it there. She won't crank only click but if I push start it, it fires up no problem. I'm assuming the starter is seized, how hard is it to change it out? I read I have to lift it up to get to it from the bottom. Also as I was driving it back I started to smell that sweet smell of coolant and popped the hood to see this Attachment 485292 What exactly is the name of what's leaking? This leads to the t-stat housing I believe right? Is it the gasket or the coolant bleeder valve? I want to fix this ASAP because I know how deathly it is for rotaries to overheat, I just don't know what I'm looking for. While I'm replacing that should I pick up a t-stat as well? My cars always stayed at 1/3 which I always keep an eye on. While I clean her up I'm changing ALL fluids. What fluids are recommended for the tranny? I want something that'll help with smoother shifts and quiet down my syncros a bit. And what fluid is good for the rear diff? I have an LSD. What else would be a good idea to change? I'm doing this all myself so it isn't a big deal all I'm doing is paying for parts Attachment 485293 Right after I picked her up haha |
Thanks in advance guys!
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That's a radiator (pressure) cap - though it isn't on the radiator in this case. That is one of two parts that should generally be replaced with OEM parts... the other being the thermostat.
The starter is a piece of cake. A couple nuts/bolts. Easily reached either the car is on a lift, or with the front end on jack stands. Yes, that's the thermostat housing (at the base of that neck). Also just a few bolts if it is the gasket. I'd assume most people don't use the gasket and instead use RTV sealant (5-6 bucks at any auto parts store). Its really up to you. The leak looks to me like its just coming from the cap. And since it is the easiest/quickest part to replace... I'd start there. Check the FAQs for what oil to use in the tranny... you'll get lots of differing opinions. Good luck. |
The starter is "a piece of cake".
Get it from underneath after disconnecting the battery. Remove the two electrical connections- the starter wire (spade connection, just pulls off) and the battery power cable (12mm socket). Two bolts hold the starter to the block. The bottom one just threads into the rear iron (14mm socket), the top is actually a long bolt with a nut on the end (both ends are 14mm). This bolt also holds the starter ground cable. In the transmission I use Red Line MT-90 (75w/90). |
The thermostat should be replaced with an OEM unit.
Also the plastic housing(what the cap sits on) that sits on the aluminum neck has an O Ring on the bottom of it.If you take that off(using a 12mm socket or wrench) you will see it..Don't forget that O ring. |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11332353)
Also the plastic housing...If you take that off(using a 12mm socket or wrench)
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I had one of those flat caps somewhere, if I could find it its yours, but I think they are cheap anyhow
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11332372)
10mm, actually.
Or it could just be my over tightening problem :scratch:. |
You are lucky man.. Could have been worse. Could have been Sandy hooked
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Its just a "Drill" so no worries
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Originally Posted by BrettLinton7
(Post 11333379)
And be careful not to snap the heads off the bolts...
Or it could just be my over tightening problem :scratch:. |
Thanks for all the replies so far guys, I just need to find some time off work to get started on working on her. As well as some money. You've all been great help
All 4 brakes seized up so I'm planning on rebuilding all 4 calipers, drilled slotted rotors, and aggressive hawk or ebc pads. There really is no need for a BBK on a street car right? Stock 4 piston fronts should be more than sufficient right? |
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Attachment 485428
This was right after the hurricane by the way. I really was lucky and so was my dad that his house wasnt destroyed.... His car on the other hand. Well you can see that in the back |
So I replaced the cap and the actual housing is leaking. What's the name or part I'm looking for
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Originally Posted by NYsNumba1Man
(Post 11334856)
So I replaced the cap and the actual housing is leaking. What's the name or part I'm looking for
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One of mine got it pretty bad too... 1st pic is the nose after the water pushed her 10 ft up the driveway... 2nd is looking out front of the driveway @ the neighbors truck. 3rd is the interior waterline, (btw 83 leather that *WAS* mint). This was Long Beach. Don't ask me why I parked her there either...?? After Irene ate my pretty decent TII parts car u think I would of learned my lesson. No big deal though considering the mess peoples homes suffered.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...480756F50C.jpg http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...4904D6A370.jpg http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...4A3DAF7991.jpg |
If you want to save $50 vs buying that plastic thermostat neck to cap plastic part from mazda-
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit. http://www.speedyzx.com/NDC/DSCF0032.jpg You can see it here. |
I love it when people find out shit like that...
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11336105)
I love it when people find out shit like that...
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Originally Posted by Landon303
(Post 11336102)
If you want to save $50 vs buying that plastic thermostat neck to cap plastic part from mazda-
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit. You can see it here. |
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