2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Safe RPMs

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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 05:44 PM
  #1  
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Safe RPMs

I have an 87 NA

The car beeps right before 7 grand.

I know RX-7 are higher reving but what is a good limit before 7gs after 7gs like it doesnt matter?

When im driving normally i heard i should keep it in a little bit higher rpm range.
What is this range?
Does it actually need to be driven a little harder?

Thanks
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 05:51 PM
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Also if my car has about 120 thousand miles
Bone stock and decent condition what would it run on average?
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 06:17 PM
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You have no valvetrain to worry about, so rev the **** out of it! Seriously though, it matters less than in conventional engines.
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 06:22 PM
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Are you running the stock ECU?&nbsp The ECU has a rev limited built into it, so you're going to be bouncing off of it anyways.

Why do you want to rev so high?&nbsp The engine makes less power after 6kRPM, so why unnecessarily stress the engine with little or no gain?

The who engine (and auxiliaries) were designed to handle very brief amounts of runs up to redline.&nbsp If you're constantly revving to redline, you're going to blow up one of the auxiliaries.&nbsp Do you like replacing parts?



-Ted
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:19 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
they dont have revlimiters until 89

mike
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:24 PM
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I had my '87 Turbo II throttle cable stick on me.&nbsp I know there's a rev limited on it.&nbsp Sorry, but my experience dictates otherwise.


-Ted
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:36 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2. my 84 gsl would stop revving about 3 seconds after the tach stopped moving it wouldn't go any faster

mike
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:36 PM
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Who cares about the engine. If you over-rev the engine and it blows, it doesn't take out the clutch, bellhousing, starter moter, rear engine plate, brake system and bonnet like the stock flywheel will if you over-rev it...
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:42 PM
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I think Ive heard that the stock stationary gears are good to about 8000rpm. But if you aren't making anymore power up there its pointless.
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Who cares about the engine. If you over-rev the engine and it blows, it doesn't take out the clutch, bellhousing, starter moter, rear engine plate, brake system and bonnet like the stock flywheel will if you over-rev it...
yes, thats the part to worry about.

mike
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 07:51 PM
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2. my 84 gsl would stop revving about 3 seconds after the tach stopped moving it wouldn't go any faster

mike
Same here, except substitute 88 GXL for 86 Base and 85 GS for 84 GSL
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 08:09 PM
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the reason your not hitting the rev limit is bad solding/wiring etc. they should have it. weither it works is another thing.
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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So at what RPM should I start worrying about my flywheel/clutch exploding?
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Old Jun 21, 2002 | 08:51 PM
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9000+ is when I get worried. I like having fully functional legs.
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Old Jun 22, 2002 | 08:34 PM
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2.
Sure, I pegged my tach too when the throttle cable got stuck.&nbsp Does that mean there's no rev limiter?&nbsp If there wasn't, >8kRPM would easily spun a bearing.&nbsp I tore down the engine 10k after that incident with no signs of bearing trauma.&nbsp The revs did bounce off 8kRPM briefly for the time I froze fumbling for the ignition switch.&nbsp This just proves to me my car has a rev limited built into the ECU.



-Ted
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Old Jun 23, 2002 | 12:29 AM
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I have an 86 with an 87 NA engine and there hasn't been anything to suggest that there's a rev limiter (Mr. Layman Guy here.) And my ECU was given a once-over less than a year ago, so if this is due to a malfunction, it isn't there...

And if the rev buzzer uses that little buzzer built into the dash circuit board, I don't hear it cuz I yanked the ******' thing (it was buzzing all the time when I first got my 7 cuz the light switch was *starting* to fail - drove me crazy - fixed the light switch, stored the buzzer.)
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Old Jun 24, 2002 | 09:16 AM
  #17  
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So if i have no more after 6000 rpm is that what i should shift at if im racing or should i let it go till 7000 to stay in higher rpms next gear?

Plus im just talking about regular driving on my way to work should i be at higher rpms cause its a rotor engine and i heard they run like **** if you dont run them kind of hard. So if im just on my way to work should i be shifting at like4-5000 or 2 to 3000
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Old Jun 24, 2002 | 09:35 AM
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I shift at 3000 on regular driving, and redline it once in a while.
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Old Jun 25, 2002 | 11:42 AM
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Originally posted by DCmina
I shift at 3000 on regular driving, and redline it once in a while.
At 3000??? do you actually drive it like that?
4-5K min even if being easy on it. Take her to the buzzer if your in a hurry. Mine too is a daily driver. For 8 years.
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Old Jun 25, 2002 | 11:46 AM
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yea, sometimes I even shift before at like 2.5k.
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Old Jun 25, 2002 | 12:20 PM
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Can you say...CARBON BUILD-UP?
Bad stuff, granny shifting, Exercise your motor, thats the reason why you have a Rotary...to hear it sing!
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Old Jun 25, 2002 | 01:08 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by RETed
Sure, I pegged my tach too when the throttle cable got stuck.&nbsp Does that mean there's no rev limiter?&nbsp If there wasn't, >8kRPM would easily spun a bearing.&nbsp I tore down the engine 10k after that incident with no signs of bearing trauma.&nbsp The revs did bounce off 8kRPM briefly for the time I froze fumbling for the ignition switch.&nbsp This just proves to me my car has a rev limited built into the ECU.



-Ted
i've seen an engine where the driver went from the top of third to 1st. it stripped the stationary gears, but the engine still ran and the bearings were fine. when you guys bench tested the ecu did you test it out? have you driven an 89+? if the pre 89's have a limiter it feels way different than the 89+ cars. you realize that you have as much proof that supports your side as i do mine right?

mike

Last edited by j9fd3s; Jun 25, 2002 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2002 | 08:47 PM
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ok... so what does the 89+ rev limiter "feel" like?
(just want to know when to let off the gas... lol.... )
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Old Jun 28, 2002 | 09:33 PM
  #24  
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My '91 hits a brick wall at 8500rpm.
My friends '87 quits at (i think) ~7700rpm. I haven't driven it in a while. Sometimes I wonder about the optimistic Mazda tachometer accuracy at higher RPM's.
And, both cars are extremely noticeable when the engine quits revving. Must be the rev limiter. Seems to kick in ~500rpm after redline. The(my) buzzer should be replaced with a voice chip--"Shift up idiot!". Stock and mildly modded rotaries don't need all that RPM. My '91 feels quickest when shifting at ~7200rpm.

When MDrace used to sell chips, they had different stage chips with different raised rev limits. Its funny that their website is down now that I have some money. Woe is me Anyone know their contact number or if they still are chipping ECUs?
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Old Jun 28, 2002 | 10:38 PM
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I had my throttle stick once too, fortunately it was in neutral! What a helacious bapbapbapbapbap off the rev limiter, with many backfires also till I ran back into the car and turned it off. Scarey!
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