Hey guy's.... I'm new here and was just wondering if it is ok to rev to 8K rpm's on stock motor. Currently the car has Intake, High flow cat, custom 2.5" catback with dual magnaflow mufflers, Rotary Extreme Ignition box with built in adjustable rev limiter, electric fan and aftermarket all aluminum radiator.

It "feels" like it makes power past 7K.... but it redlines at 7K. I have the rev limiter set at 8K rpm's on the ignition box. Is this ok.... or will I damage something?


-Joe

 

Stock redline is ~8200 for an S4 and ~9000 for an S5 I believe. Wether or not I'm right, redline is definitely above 7000 for both series.

 

Nah(maybe rev "Limiter").... but my "redline" on my tach is 7K rpm's... and the tach Ends at 8K.


-Joe

 

There's a reason why the rpm's turn red after a certain point. I wouldnt take a stock motor past the redline.

 

I forgot the redline started at 7k

Forgive me, I haven't been in an FC in weeks!

 

s4 is 7k, s5 is 8. unless you have a port job, there is no need, the power band has more than leveled off by redline. It may be 'cool' to be able to do that, but you are just wearing parts out much quicker that were not designed for that rpm.

 

its ok to rev past 7000 sometimes, but not all the time. it will wear things out ALOT faster if your reving past 7K,

if reving past 7k was truely verydamaging the rev limit would be at 7... and not at 8

on stcok ports you wont make any more power past 7000 anyway... so reving past 7 isnt really needed for anything really....

 

yeah, I know it's there for a reason, but the guy that had the car before me said he used to take it there once in a while while racing and never seemed to have a problem. I just got the car and am just a little leary about taking it there. I took it a LITTLE past 7K once... and it felt like it was still pulling up there, so I was just wondering.

Oh, and the motor only has 70K miles on it. He dropped this motor in after his old one that had like 170K on it blew.


-Joe

 

if you take it up to 8K your fuel will cut out so there is really no point to and on a stock engine you quit making power after 6800 rpms now if you want to go past that then i would get harder stationary gears, and a new flywheel and a scatter sheild for the fly just to be sure and so no one gets hurt, and the key to get over 8k is to get a full standalone fuel system like a microtech or megasquirt. and to make power at the high of rpm you will need a good size port job. and replace all of your seals with new ones cause stock seals really cant that kind of punishment


hope this helps ya some

 

yes it helps alot... and MAN you guy's reply very fast..... excellent web site you guy's have here! Very helpful.


-Joe

 

I have an s4 engine with a very open intake filter(2x bonez cone filter), and full str8 pipes for exhaust. It pulls all the way to 8, but for gas saving i usually drive it only up to 6.5 or 6k to get going fast, 8k only when racing, if you want your car for years too come don't do this, it will wear it out fast, i however, dont care .

look in the video section for serveral rotaries held WOT for serval minutes with no problems, until they get hot...

It is a good idea to visit the redline a few times a week too keep it clean on the inside.

 

This thread is mixed with allot of butt dynos and half correct info and correct info kind of expected though on this topic.

The bottom line, on a stock internal S4 with stock turbo since you have a TII. The turbo is fading allot by 7k and only drops faster above 7k your power band as stated is falling off rapidly by 7k +. As far as it pulling like you said past 7k is your butt dyno kicking in. Past 7k are very hard on your stat gears and could brake them sending your rotor smashing around in there. The stock ports also don’t flow very well for this type of revving but are capable of making well over 400whp, people don’t give them enough credit.

At 8k on stock turbo you are only probably making 2psi of boost.

 

Where is the videos section, cause I don't see one.

 

um.... what are yuou saying? your saying that his [perfectly fine stock seals are soo out of spec that a set of new seals will make a difference?

anyone care to resurrect the tw idiots who destroyed one engine by reving it up to 9+k rpms on one rotor. it died from loss of coolent cus the radiator cap was absent but none the less. i think it will be fine if you just bounce it into redline territory and back down, but if you keep iit there sustained for any periods of time, idk, a rotor slamming into a rotor housing doesnt sound too fun.

 

its good to take it to redline once or twice a day(within reason) to blow out carbon build up.

 

no im not saying that its just if he is going to put as much punishment on that engine as i think he would and if it has quite a few miles on it then i dont think the seals will hold up for as long as he hoped for them too.