safc question
#1
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safc question
if someone can point me in the right direction i would be greatly appreciative i tried apexi's website but the directions come up as dots. . I need to know how to get the rpm setting right no matter what ive tried its always like 300 rpm off. how do i fix this?!
#2
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How do you know IT is off. If your comparing the SAFC reading with the tach, it's always possible the Mazda tach is the one off.
But if your using some meter like a Fluke 88 to compare the reading on the SAFC and the reading on the SAFC is off, then I can't help you fix the SAFC to read right. Just the usual ....make sure the gnds for the SAFC are set up per the SAFC manual. I believe there are two gnd wires on the SAFC and one is supposed to be a mm closer to the ECU than the other. Something like that. Or? bad connection b/t the grey wire on the SAFC to the rpm wire at the ECU plug? Cold solder joint there?
Or if you have a meter that can measure freq, you can backprobe one of the primary injector wires at the ECU and it'll show the rpms.
But if your using some meter like a Fluke 88 to compare the reading on the SAFC and the reading on the SAFC is off, then I can't help you fix the SAFC to read right. Just the usual ....make sure the gnds for the SAFC are set up per the SAFC manual. I believe there are two gnd wires on the SAFC and one is supposed to be a mm closer to the ECU than the other. Something like that. Or? bad connection b/t the grey wire on the SAFC to the rpm wire at the ECU plug? Cold solder joint there?
Or if you have a meter that can measure freq, you can backprobe one of the primary injector wires at the ECU and it'll show the rpms.
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yah i was comparing it to the mazda tach but the reason i asked is because the only settings ive been able to go between is the 4 and the 3 cylinder under car select and both are about 300 off the 3 cylinder is high 4 is low
#4
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Here's my thread from installing the SAFC Neo in our 90 Tii vert. Might be useful items in there. I followed the instructions and the RPMs read correctly.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=SAFC
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=SAFC
#5
Rotary Freak
I'd say it's a Mazda tach problem. I've one car that read a couple hundred??? high? low? I forget. I know this because I used a Fluke with a tach input feature plus reading the freq off the primary injector wires. I'm not a perfectionist.
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#8
Rotary Freak
Won't ROLL OVER. Means the starter won't spin? Do you hear the CLICK of the starter solenoid when you go to START?
Or if you hear no CLICK of the solenoid, then put the key to ON and then see if the wipers work or if the turn signals work with key to ON. If neither work, and they worked before, then your MAIN RELAY is blown or the black wire that runs from the engine bay fuse box to the black wire at the ignition switch is *open*. As in disconnected. If disconnected, it would be disconnected close to the engine bay fuse box.
Or if no CLICK of the solenoid, and the wipers and turn signals work, then the clutch interlock switch has failed for unknown reasons. Like its plunger isn't being depressed when the clutch pedal is depressed.
No, not ECU or SAFC involved. Neither is a player in the starter spinning over. Both can be laying in the street and the starter should work.
Or if you hear no CLICK of the solenoid, then put the key to ON and then see if the wipers work or if the turn signals work with key to ON. If neither work, and they worked before, then your MAIN RELAY is blown or the black wire that runs from the engine bay fuse box to the black wire at the ignition switch is *open*. As in disconnected. If disconnected, it would be disconnected close to the engine bay fuse box.
Or if no CLICK of the solenoid, and the wipers and turn signals work, then the clutch interlock switch has failed for unknown reasons. Like its plunger isn't being depressed when the clutch pedal is depressed.
No, not ECU or SAFC involved. Neither is a player in the starter spinning over. Both can be laying in the street and the starter should work.
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nothing works at all lol i put my key in the ignition with the door open and it beeps but as soon i try to turn the car on all the lights in the car go out.. . its never done this beore. .
#12
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If you put jumper cables on, and turn the key to ON, do your turn signals work and does your wipers work?
I'd say batt cables like the man above said, but if you have batt cables on, and the wipers and the turn signals don't work, then you've either a blown MAIN FUSE or the wire that feeds the ignition is disconencted in the engine bay.
There is a fuse box in the interior. It has three busses. One is the batt bus which has power even if the key is not in. Then you have the IG1 and IG1 busses (rows of fuses) that ONLY have power if the key is put to ON. The ignition key feeds THOSE busses. The wipers and turn signals are on IG1/IG2. So it stands to reason, if the wipers and turn signals don't work with the key to ON, then the MAIN FUSE which feeds the ignition switch, is BLOWN. It is held in the engine bay fuse box with two BOLTS. It does not just pull out without unscrewing those two bolts.
IF the turn signals and wipers work with key ON and jumper cables on, then I'd say the batt termanals are shot/need repair/something on that order.
When you say you turn the key to start and the interior lighs go out..........that is a certain clue the battery terminals are not making good contact with the batt.........kinda like what was said in the other mans post. I'd look there first rather than the MAIN FUSE. The interior lights are on the BATT BUS in the interior and should have stayed lit up even if the ignition key was not getting juice from the main fuse.
There. I've contradicted myself at least once or twice in this post.
I'd say batt cables like the man above said, but if you have batt cables on, and the wipers and the turn signals don't work, then you've either a blown MAIN FUSE or the wire that feeds the ignition is disconencted in the engine bay.
There is a fuse box in the interior. It has three busses. One is the batt bus which has power even if the key is not in. Then you have the IG1 and IG1 busses (rows of fuses) that ONLY have power if the key is put to ON. The ignition key feeds THOSE busses. The wipers and turn signals are on IG1/IG2. So it stands to reason, if the wipers and turn signals don't work with the key to ON, then the MAIN FUSE which feeds the ignition switch, is BLOWN. It is held in the engine bay fuse box with two BOLTS. It does not just pull out without unscrewing those two bolts.
IF the turn signals and wipers work with key ON and jumper cables on, then I'd say the batt termanals are shot/need repair/something on that order.
When you say you turn the key to start and the interior lighs go out..........that is a certain clue the battery terminals are not making good contact with the batt.........kinda like what was said in the other mans post. I'd look there first rather than the MAIN FUSE. The interior lights are on the BATT BUS in the interior and should have stayed lit up even if the ignition key was not getting juice from the main fuse.
There. I've contradicted myself at least once or twice in this post.
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