pushrod activated suspension idea
While measuring the inside of my wheel well to determine how fat of a tire i could fit, i got a bright idea.
If i replaced the shock with a formed bar, and had it connect to a set of shocks that connect between the rear shock towers.
what i discovered, is by doing this, it allows you to fit a 14" wide rear tire, without any fender modification. There are also obviously performance benefits from the loss of sprung weight in the suspension too.
Please guys, let me know if there is a possible market for a bolt in kit for something like this. I am not about to start selling right now obviously, i am just curious, because i think i will be making one for myself.
-Zander
If i replaced the shock with a formed bar, and had it connect to a set of shocks that connect between the rear shock towers.
what i discovered, is by doing this, it allows you to fit a 14" wide rear tire, without any fender modification. There are also obviously performance benefits from the loss of sprung weight in the suspension too.
Please guys, let me know if there is a possible market for a bolt in kit for something like this. I am not about to start selling right now obviously, i am just curious, because i think i will be making one for myself.
-Zander
That sort of suspension- long used in F1 and various supercars- requires an enormous amount of engineering and fabrication experience.
I can't even imagine such a conversion as a "bolt-in kit".
I can't even imagine such a conversion as a "bolt-in kit".
Yea, that's a good idea but the packaging is tight and I don't think it's worth the effort. Plus I wouldn't want to be driving if the bell cranks failed. Even with finite element analysis to guide the design it's difficult to estimate the loads caused by a big bump.
Here's an example of inboard shocks on a fsae car. Do a google search for 'fsae bell cranks' and 'inboard suspension'
Here's an example of inboard shocks on a fsae car. Do a google search for 'fsae bell cranks' and 'inboard suspension'
Only thing about an FSAE car, when that stuff fails, you aren't 1. Spending more money then you need to replace a custom part, or 2. careening into adjacent lanes, or even worse, oncoming lanes!
FEA is key! If you've got the resources to do it, go for it!
FEA is key! If you've got the resources to do it, go for it!
Trending Topics
It could very easily be a "bolt on kit", or more like a "weld on kit"
there would be a little X brace between the two rear shock towers, with a horizontal bar passing between the top of the towers. Placed on top of each shock tower will be a little CNC'd lever, which will connect to the suspension element. The shocks will both connect somewhere in the middle.
here is a build thread, being done in a civic:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2040195

I would be very cautious about anything you read in SUPER STREET. Those guys think winning is an ice man cold air intake.
I hate how the NOZZZZ bottles are mounted high up so they can be seen through the windows.
I dare you to find me picture of front on board suspension.
I hate how the NOZZZZ bottles are mounted high up so they can be seen through the windows.I dare you to find me picture of front on board suspension.
I have no doubt you could do it and make it function. It is really not that complicated. The questions is it really worth it... and woudl it be any better.... not really.
On an FC you are going to hit the rear trailing arm before you hit the strut anyway.
On an FC you are going to hit the rear trailing arm before you hit the strut anyway.
and god damn.. i just went out and looked for myself, and you're right about the rear trailing arm. I guess I would have to make a set of those as well.. or modify the existing one.
hondas have alot of room in the engine bay. rx7s have a lot of engine room but after seeing those pics and how it would have to mount, i think it would be very difficult to get them to fit. with ppl running larger turbos plus the brake master cyl and res. and the clutch res. and ignition coils etc. i dont doubt that the back could be made to work, but the front i really cant see the front happening. if u do get a set going id very much like to see it
however, i have to finish building my engine first.
i applaud you for your intuitive and innovative ideas. that's the stuff that keeps car guys in the game. maybe this idea won't work, maybe it will. but Chaotic is brave for thinking of trying something not normally used in FC's. Keep trying different things as that is what will make you an expert fabricator and all these naysayers will someday be asking you to build something for them.
i have a friend that i worked with at a performance shop, and he was always creating fast and crazy projects. He started in the same way and now his own shop is busy and packed with work. his shop has cars that are full race cars to sick street cars. He is also my age so he started earlier than me, which makes me motivated in my projects. This all started with him and a welder.
i have a friend that i worked with at a performance shop, and he was always creating fast and crazy projects. He started in the same way and now his own shop is busy and packed with work. his shop has cars that are full race cars to sick street cars. He is also my age so he started earlier than me, which makes me motivated in my projects. This all started with him and a welder.
I remember seeing an "area 51" *I think* FD with inboard shocks mounted on the back of the rollbar or cage many years ago.
Cool, but as others have said make up some trailing arms first for rear tire clearance and sell them please.
I can't believe no one makes trailing arms for us that eliminate the triaxial hub as well as give clearance for tire and drop weight...
Once (if) you clear the trailing arms the muffler(s) become a tight fit. I had to use steel u-bolts tightened all the way down instead of donuts on the inside to keep my heavy RB mufflers from swinging into the tire while cornering on 275/40-17 on +40 rim.
Cool, but as others have said make up some trailing arms first for rear tire clearance and sell them please.
I can't believe no one makes trailing arms for us that eliminate the triaxial hub as well as give clearance for tire and drop weight...
Once (if) you clear the trailing arms the muffler(s) become a tight fit. I had to use steel u-bolts tightened all the way down instead of donuts on the inside to keep my heavy RB mufflers from swinging into the tire while cornering on 275/40-17 on +40 rim.
thanks for the kind words man (pistones)
and BLUE TII, If this works, i will absolutely be reproducing what i've made, including the trailing arms, and the shock kit.
and BLUE TII, If this works, i will absolutely be reproducing what i've made, including the trailing arms, and the shock kit.
the reason why i am doing it is to be able to fit a 345 M/T ET street radial in the stock fenders.
and god damn.. i just went out and looked for myself, and you're right about the rear trailing arm. I guess I would have to make a set of those as well.. or modify the existing one.
and god damn.. i just went out and looked for myself, and you're right about the rear trailing arm. I guess I would have to make a set of those as well.. or modify the existing one.
I remember seeing an "area 51" *I think* FD with inboard shocks mounted on the back of the rollbar or cage many years ago.
Cool, but as others have said make up some trailing arms first for rear tire clearance and sell them please.
I can't believe no one makes trailing arms for us that eliminate the triaxial hub as well as give clearance for tire and drop weight...
Once (if) you clear the trailing arms the muffler(s) become a tight fit. I had to use steel u-bolts tightened all the way down instead of donuts on the inside to keep my heavy RB mufflers from swinging into the tire while cornering on 275/40-17 on +40 rim.
Cool, but as others have said make up some trailing arms first for rear tire clearance and sell them please.
I can't believe no one makes trailing arms for us that eliminate the triaxial hub as well as give clearance for tire and drop weight...
Once (if) you clear the trailing arms the muffler(s) become a tight fit. I had to use steel u-bolts tightened all the way down instead of donuts on the inside to keep my heavy RB mufflers from swinging into the tire while cornering on 275/40-17 on +40 rim.
im with pistones, theres too little ppl trying new stuff out. i do think it be a super tight fit
but if it could be done, itd be bad ***!!
and besides theres ppl doing things that arent near performance related, that are FAR more dangerous than that!
but if it could be done, itd be bad ***!!
and besides theres ppl doing things that arent near performance related, that are FAR more dangerous than that!
Chaotic, I say go for it and do it. It can obviously be done, and it can be marketed. Not that your market will be huge but you can maybe get your cost back out of it. I think it will be badass to see the progress you make with it and post some pics.








