No, they should be showing alternator voltage (system voltage with the car running, basically) from the time the engine's started until they come on line under load. It's ***-backwards from what you'd think should be happening, because the ECU controls the ground...

 

ahh ok gotcha. now there is no way to just test this with the car ignition to the on posision is there? I just took the uim off to check all my connections and everything looked fine. Just to make sure do you know witch line is possitive and witch one is negative at the injector plug? I would figure I have them on right if they primaries work fine (primaries and secondaries are hooked up the exact same way).

 

+ - doesnt matter on injectors, just as long as they are both hooked up.

 

ok, lol, yeah they are both deffinatley hooked up soldered and shrink wrapped. hum.............Interesting.

 

Oh man just looking at that picture makes me want to cry too! My car started smoking on start up and between shifts. I decided after I took my twins off to replace, I might as well go single! so I did. I'm almost finished and worried that the first thing I'll see is that same white **** pouring out from behind. Good luck with the fix! Dan

 

thanks man I'm working on it all tonight if it fuggin' kills me. Tonight I'll be working on the bogging problem however I'm going to contact brian to see what the next step to take will be. Thanks again.

 

Whien you pull the turbo inlet duct off, is the duct dripping with oil. The intercooler also. If it isn't then maybe its another thing. Maybe the hot side of the turbo and if not that ??????????????????

 

Damn that sucks you're still having that problem. I hope the hybrid I'm having built for me doesnt have these issues. Maybe the turbo oil seal had already blown from the previous time and the restrictor isnt able to help anyway now that the seal is blown?

 

Hailers, the tid has the usually small layer of oil however when I pull the downpipe off the oil is in the hotside of the turbo so I don't really know what that means. ilike2eatricers it may be a bad seal and from the looks of it I'm not totally sure going to a smaller restrictor is going to work. I mean it reduced the amount of oil leaking from the hotside but the car is still smoking like a mother!

 

If you can make the secondary ops check test work that's in the Haynes manual (maybe in the FSM too?), you could check it out in the driveway. I think I tried to test my secondaries that way a long time ago, and it didn't work for me. Something about disconnecting the boost sensor line and revving to 3800, I forget now. I've always checked 'em out via meter at the ECU while driving.

You don't care which wires at the injector are positive or negative (they're both positive, technically, until the ECU switches the ground on), because you'll be reading the voltage at the ECU (it'll be positive there, other meter lead on a good ground). Don't know which ECU pins you'll want to "backprobe" (the plug will stay on the whole time), you can find that info in the FSM for your car (or do a search- I've seen the ECU pinout charts for the different cars several times here).

I have yet to convince myself that the injectors are not polarity sensitive, it depends on the design of the internal magnetic core...Suffice it to say, when I check mine out off of the car with my 12v battery setup, I keep the same polarity that the car wiring has

 

oh **** today just gets worse and ******' worse! I just changed the sparkplugs, checked my injector connectors under the uim and rechecked all the ic piping for leaks under boost. well I got it back up and running and had to fallow my fiance to the tanning place and it did the same exact thing there, bogged way down like there was absolutely no power when the secondaries kick in so I figure oh well I'll stay at the tanning place until my fiance gets out. SO about 20 minutes goes by and she gets out, I go to start the car up and I can't ******* start it, DAMNIT!!!!!! ******* ****! I really don't know if its flooded because I put the pedal all the way down but still couldn't start the bitch! I left and will go back in about 2 hours with a pair of jumper cables to see what I can do. Why oh why did I ******* want to upgrade my car. Bitch!

 

For the bogging issue: What do you have the corrections set at for your SAFC? I'm sure you know all the unflooding tricks already.

 

Well the bogging can't be caused by it being to rich because when it bogs it the widebands a/f ratio pegs the lean side of 21. Yeah I know all the unflooding stuff I just figured if it was flooded it would pressing the pedal to the floor should have fixed it. Oh well **** it, I can't take too many of these fucked up days.

 

Man, you're not getting any detenation with those A/F ratios?

 

Have you checked to see if the injectors actually work or not? You can test them by taking them out a putting 12v to them very quickly just to make sure they click. If one or more of your injectors failed you should be getting a CEL.

 

no detonation probably because no boost. I need to check and see if the injectors are good or not. I got them off of a guy on this forum so they may not work? WHo knows. Going to get the car now. I'll report in a couple of minutes (hopefully )

 

well I just brought it home. on the second try it started so who ******* knows. anyone wanna buy my car for a dollar lol, jk.

I'll check to see if the injectors work tomorrow.

 

You sure about that?

Honda Dude, I'll buy it for $2, and give all of the turbo stuff back to you as an added bonus

 

lol, don't tempt me

 

Not positive but if it is an electrical problem with the wiring or the injector it should pop up according to code 71 and 73 (for s5 anyways). Now that I think back I did not get a CEL when my rear primary failed (you might remember my thread since you helped me out so much). It was a problem with the injector itself and not the wiring so that may be the issue with the no CEL. Sorry for cluttering the thread but seemed somewhat relevant.

 

if these are bad injectors I'm going to be pissed, oh well, really to tell you the truth if I just find out what it is I'll be happy. It can only be a couple of things though. Only things I changed was

added resistors
put the 720 secondaries in the primary location and put new to me 890cc injectors in the secondary location and rewired new injector connectors.

 

Where did you put the resistors in the scheme of things?

Did you check out the injector coils with a meter before installing 'em?

 

I just did an ohm test and they came out to like 12.4 on both but thats all I know how to do. How would I check the injector coils? I was just going to hook up 12volts to it tomorrow to see if that would work like ilike2eatricers mentioned. What do you think.

 

Yeah, if you already have them out again, just to make sure they click...

The resistance check sounds good, BUT...if the injectors are 12.4 ohms apiece, then they are hi-impedance boys. WHY do you have resistors in the circuit???

 

hum....cause I"m an idiot? Let me recheck those numbers

edit lets just say if I go out there and it is high impedance injectors what would happen if I ran them with resistors? burned ecu? man I'm about to feel retarded.