i have a 91 n/a and it has two tps sensors and i tried a read for hours trying to get then adjusted, i got the upper one adjusted to 1k and the lower one starts at 5k but i'm not sure if that is right and my hanes manual does hel with this subject so any other help would be great!

 

The upper (long range) TPS is self adjusting.
You shouldn't have to mess with it.
Its job is to tell the ECU how to run the MOP.

The lower (short range) TPS is also self adjusting, but it needs to be manually adjusted start with.
It's function is to tell the ECU when the throttle is closed, so the idle program can be run.

With the cold start fast idle cam pulled off so the throttle sits on the hard stop, the short range TPS should be near 1K ohms.
While you have the meter clipped on, hold open the throttle and work the TPS plunger in & out and watch the meter sweep for bad spots or drop outs.
A drop in the sweep will tell the ECU to idle at part open throttle & give fuel cuts while driving.

 

I have the same problem finding information on adjusting the S5 TPS.

I actually picked up a spare TPS and it had the same 'problem' as mine.

Both of them go from 0K to 2K, then stop (infinite) halfway through. Then I plug into the third wire and they go from 2K to 0K for the other half of the way through. All the sensors I have do this, except the one that I have, the lower sensor does this:

.5K, .8K, .5K, .9K, 1K, 1.1K, 1.2K, etc.
((EDIT) Translation: Starts at .5K, goes to .8K, then goes back down to .5K . . . . )

Thats where my low-throttle problems come from, I guess.

 

I assume you din't have a "checker light" and you are using a multimeter. As SHURE SHOT said, all you do is the initial adjustment munually. The numbers will fall within range all by itself. If the TPS is bad it will give you a "check engine".

With a checker light, you just turn the screw until one light bulb goes out and one stays on.

Very simple, 2 minute deal.

 

The check code is tripped only if the TPS resistor goes open.
The wiper track can have worn out spots that can cause fuel cuts without causing a check engine.

The check light verifies the idle setting, but may not show a worn spot at part throttle.

A cheap needle type meter is the golden test.
The needle should sweep smoothly from near 0 to near 5K as the plunger moves out.
If that's good, then you can set the idle value.

 

From 0 to 5K on what electrodes? What wires should I connect them to?

 

Pins A & B (orange & black) wires

 

Ok, so the bottom TPS I should check the orange and black wires and they should sweep smothly from 0K to 5K (and NOT 0K to 2K!)

I'll do that later today most likely. Thank you very much

PS: Your pic is dead. RIP.

 

thanks a lot guys now i have a new problem i'll start ba new thread, white white smoke, and car starts mifiring out of control and my car won't idle, it ran fine last night. and i just unplugged the trailing coil and it starts to clear up but it wont idle unless i hold mu foot on the gas?