S5 TII, what's it need for 300whp?
S5 TII, what's it need for 300whp?
What would I need? Full exhaust, clear intake, bigger intercooler, 550's, more boost...what else to make a good, reliable 300hp?
I'm considering the 13b as a swap. My E36 is becoming a bit too ridiculous to keep the sensors up to date and I've been wanting to do something interesting to it for a long time. I can't find any TII E36's out there. I've been considering Toyota 1jz's but it's been done before and I would still be out a little money...by the time I sell my M52 and getrag I could come out enough ahead to put a little back in the bank.
Only thing is, I want 300hp.
I'm considering the 13b as a swap. My E36 is becoming a bit too ridiculous to keep the sensors up to date and I've been wanting to do something interesting to it for a long time. I can't find any TII E36's out there. I've been considering Toyota 1jz's but it's been done before and I would still be out a little money...by the time I sell my M52 and getrag I could come out enough ahead to put a little back in the bank.
Only thing is, I want 300hp.
Well the T2's already come with 550's. I would say 720's at least for the secondaries, big intercooler, a BNR stage 2 turbo, and some way to manage your fuel and extra boost, then you're good to go.
I was thinking TII's had 440's...but that's NA's. So bigger injectors and an S-AFC or the like. Then bigger IC, intake, exhaust.
Will the stock Hitachi not hold up to 300hp? What are it's limitations? Would it be better to just ditch it and go for a better unit?
Will the stock Hitachi not hold up to 300hp? What are it's limitations? Would it be better to just ditch it and go for a better unit?
No, the stock Hitachi is only good for about 14psi, but really after about 11psi you are just blowing hot air. When my T2 was running w/ 720 secondaries, big trust front mount, S-AFC, emissions removed w/ a RB downpipe and full exhaust, intake, and stock turbo running at 11psi with stock ports I was making about 260hp, that's an estimate, but from what I've read you aren't going to make much more than that on the stock turbo. A hybrid however, like a BNR, will bolt right on and get you safely making power up to 15 or 16psi (on a stage 2 BNR anyway). So yea, just get a hybrid bolt-on so that you wont have to deal with after market manifolds, waste gates, etc. 300 hp is easily attainable.
260hp would be fine for me so long as it was stable, reliable horsepower. I would plan on picking up a second block and rebuilding/porting it. I would just pick up a bigger turbo then.
What's the stock rear end ratio for the TII's?
What's the stock rear end ratio for the TII's?
Thought of something else...I can't remember if the S4 or S5 uses the high impedance injectors. I'm looking at an S5 engine, tranny, wiring harness, ECU, and coils...will I need to find an injector resistor bank for the S5? What else would I need to have a turn-key running engine?
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I was thinking as much but wanted to make sure.
The motors I'm seeing available on eBay and the like don't come with air meters or anything so I'll need to get me one of them. The air meter plugs into the main engine harness, correct?
The motors I'm seeing available on eBay and the like don't come with air meters or anything so I'll need to get me one of them. The air meter plugs into the main engine harness, correct?
that im not sure, the fsm should have it.
but if I remember right it is connected from the engine harness. The wire of the Maf goes into the harness that is on the right side of the engine bay going into the passenger compartment to the ecu.
The air meter is connect to the ecu on the middle plug of the ecu.
S5 fsm sucks, s4 fsm better lol. Atleast the S4 fsm has all the wiring schematic in one section.
but if I remember right it is connected from the engine harness. The wire of the Maf goes into the harness that is on the right side of the engine bay going into the passenger compartment to the ecu.
The air meter is connect to the ecu on the middle plug of the ecu.
S5 fsm sucks, s4 fsm better lol. Atleast the S4 fsm has all the wiring schematic in one section.
300 is a snap. Just do yourself a favor and dont try to coax it out of that stock compressor. Get a hybrid (if you have too....) and then run some bigger firehoses and an SAFC (if you have too..) I prefer full EMS though.
Yeah I'll either go with the BNR hybrid as suggested or pick up a T04? of some variety. I don't mind making my own manifolds and dealing with wastegates...but the BNR looks good enough for my needs.
EMS might be a good thing later...for 300hp it's not a "need", though, and I'm not going to do too much splurging until I know how the engine is going to work in the chassis.
For the plans I did have I can pick up a spare block and rebuild/port it and have a candidate for some real power...might build a megasquirt then.
EMS might be a good thing later...for 300hp it's not a "need", though, and I'm not going to do too much splurging until I know how the engine is going to work in the chassis.
For the plans I did have I can pick up a spare block and rebuild/port it and have a candidate for some real power...might build a megasquirt then.
Running a full T04 turbo on the stock ECU is a bad idea. An AFC has no timing control at all, and only limited fuel control. BNR hybrids use T04b housings and wheels (V-trim, H-trim & 60-1) anyway, so you'd be getting most of the potential of a full turbo conversion.
A decent setup would be 4x720cc injectors, an Rtek 1.8, an AFC & a hybrid turbo. 300whp would likely be maxing out a 550/720cc injector combo, so you'd want more headroom to keep the duty cycles reasonable. The stage 1 Rtek would at least give you some timing pulled for safety (1deg/psi over 9psi), and the AFC would let you add the fuel you would need to run 1 bar (14.7 psi) up to redline. The stock MAP sensor won't read past 1 bar, so this would be the limit.
Obivously, a full turbo conversion and a standalone would be the best route, but that's also more money and the need to find someone to tune the car.
A decent setup would be 4x720cc injectors, an Rtek 1.8, an AFC & a hybrid turbo. 300whp would likely be maxing out a 550/720cc injector combo, so you'd want more headroom to keep the duty cycles reasonable. The stage 1 Rtek would at least give you some timing pulled for safety (1deg/psi over 9psi), and the AFC would let you add the fuel you would need to run 1 bar (14.7 psi) up to redline. The stock MAP sensor won't read past 1 bar, so this would be the limit.
Obivously, a full turbo conversion and a standalone would be the best route, but that's also more money and the need to find someone to tune the car.
A chipped stock ECU. They have a ton of beneficial changes including fuel map adjustments for running larger injectors. This would make fuel tuning far easier with an AFC. Info here: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5T2
Excellent! Thanks for the link!
I hate the 1bar thing but I don't think I'd ever need more than 12psi, would I? Final goal is to have around 350whp...and only that high because I'll be running through a a 3.13 rear end and I would still like to have a killer first couple of gears lol.
I hate the 1bar thing but I don't think I'd ever need more than 12psi, would I? Final goal is to have around 350whp...and only that high because I'll be running through a a 3.13 rear end and I would still like to have a killer first couple of gears lol.
You'd need one of the larger hybrids to make 350whp. BNR's stage 3 & 4 use the 60-1 wheel, which would get you there, but at high boost (1 bar). The smaller hybrids typically produce around 300whp at roughly the same pressure.
You should check out the BNR dyno thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/bnr-turbo-dyno-sheets-please-629521/. There's a lot of info in there, including the setups people run. Keep in mind that trying to get to the 350whp mark would mean increasing at least the secondary injector size to even bigger than 720s.
You should check out the BNR dyno thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/bnr-turbo-dyno-sheets-please-629521/. There's a lot of info in there, including the setups people run. Keep in mind that trying to get to the 350whp mark would mean increasing at least the secondary injector size to even bigger than 720s.
Yeah, the 2.1 isn't out for the S5 TII yet. I think Pocketlogger still needs beta testers if you're interested though. Check out the Rtek forum or PM turbo2ltr. I just bought one, and the data logging capability alone is well worth it.
Why are you so bent on an s5? They have certain superior features but parts are far harder to find for it. The block is stronger (not the seals but the actual housings) but that's not going to matter much at that power level if it's tuned correctly. Wiring is also simpler on the s4 because it has a more reliable mechanical oil metering pump (the thing that makes rotaries burn oil).





