S5 Stereo Install so that *Everything Works*
03-08-11, 05:31 PM
#27
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHa, ok buddy, tell yourself that.
i guess being in the automotive field for years, numerous amounts of ase certs (including advanced electrical), has taught me the wrong way of doing it.
have fun man, good luck in about 2 years when you have to redo everything
Lloyd
i guess being in the automotive field for years, numerous amounts of ase certs (including advanced electrical), has taught me the wrong way of doing it.
have fun man, good luck in about 2 years when you have to redo everything
Lloyd
03-08-11, 06:20 PM
#28
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHa, ok buddy, tell yourself that.
i guess being in the automotive field for years, numerous amounts of ase certs (including advanced electrical), has taught me the wrong way of doing it.
have fun man, good luck in about 2 years when you have to redo everything
Lloyd
i guess being in the automotive field for years, numerous amounts of ase certs (including advanced electrical), has taught me the wrong way of doing it.
have fun man, good luck in about 2 years when you have to redo everything
Lloyd
Did you lose count of the soldered wires under under the dash or under the hood?
What, can't find any? Or you can't count? Which is it?
Stay off my thread go thread- crap in someone else's thread.
03-08-11, 06:50 PM
#29
Wrong. You fail.
Do not ever solder connections on a car. The correct way to connect is with a crimp. Look under the hood of your FC. Look under the dash of your FC. Look under the hood and dash of any car you can get under. Count the number of wires that are connected with a solder and heat shrink from the factory. Didn't find any? Didn't think so.
Don't bother to say 'But that is the way I always did it.' Because you are wrong. Don't tell me 'But that's the way my Dad/Brother/Sister Mother did it' because they would be wrong too.
Look it up. Start your own thread if you want to ask some other experts about it. Don't thread crap here.
Do not ever solder connections on a car. The correct way to connect is with a crimp. Look under the hood of your FC. Look under the dash of your FC. Look under the hood and dash of any car you can get under. Count the number of wires that are connected with a solder and heat shrink from the factory. Didn't find any? Didn't think so.
Don't bother to say 'But that is the way I always did it.' Because you are wrong. Don't tell me 'But that's the way my Dad/Brother/Sister Mother did it' because they would be wrong too.
Look it up. Start your own thread if you want to ask some other experts about it. Don't thread crap here.
Crimping normally is ok, but going the extra mile and soldering is definitely the way to go if you have the proper tools and knowledge to do it.
I'm not bagging on you for crimping it should work fine but to say never solder wires on a car is absolutely crazy.
03-09-11, 10:39 PM
#32
Wait wait wait... are you serious? That makes absolutely no sense I have been working on cars for 6 years with 3 ASEs one of them happens to be electrical diagnostics and you are going to say you should crimp stuff INSTEAD of soldering.
Crimping normally is ok, but going the extra mile and soldering is definitely the way to go if you have the proper tools and knowledge to do it.
I'm not bagging on you for crimping it should work fine but to say never solder wires on a car is absolutely crazy.
Crimping normally is ok, but going the extra mile and soldering is definitely the way to go if you have the proper tools and knowledge to do it.
I'm not bagging on you for crimping it should work fine but to say never solder wires on a car is absolutely crazy.
Go start your own thread about crimping and soldering, then everyone can weigh in. I really don't care if you solder on your car, but I will be damned if I would let either of you 'trained' idiots solder on mine.
You and your buddy Magnus2222 start out with 'don't want to knock you' 'not bagging on you' then knock and bag on me? You are both petty and insulting.
The reason you should crimp instead of solder is that solder joints are inherently brittle. *If* you heat the wires properly, solder not only flows into the intended joint but also wicks up the strands. Then the joint is brittle and subject to failure from vibration. Cars vibrate, as Magnus2222 pointed out. A properly crimped connection is just as flexible as and stronger than the wires that are joined.
Read up on the installation manuals of some of the major after market Engine Management. Motec prohibits soldering, insists on crimping. Haltec says to crimp properly, then adds several caveats and warnings regarding soldering technique and inadequate, underpowered equipment if you instead choose to solder. So crimping is preferred there as well.
Why do they insist on or prefer crimping? Because they are crazy? NO. Because they want clean reliable vibration resistant electrical connections, just like the OEMs.
You will never find soldered wire connections on an aircraft. Only crimped. Why?
Why are all the connectors on your RX7 crimped from the factory? Do you think it is done for cost reasons? If so, why didn't they take the time to solder the really important stuff?
Really the most of the electronic problems in the RX7 are the result of solder joint failure. Yes, they are on pc boards, but those solder joints withstood the scrutiny of a very high standard of quality control. And yet they fail, due to vibration, corrosion and cold solder joints.
And the crimped joints from the same era do not.
03-10-11, 01:01 AM
#33
A) calm down and stop insulting us, you are in the wrong when you start doing that
B) do not make blanket statements saying that everyone is stupid for not doing it 1 way or another
C) i have worked in several VERY high end custom stereo shops, and all my work i do has been looked over and complimented by people who set standards in car audio and custom wiring
D) look at any and all repairs made by REAL certified techs (myself included) at ANY dealership or anything involving warrenties. they do not accept crimping, if its not soldered/heat shrink and re terminated per oem standards they WILL void warrenties.
lastly, youre right, there are no soldered wires on oem looms, they are all terminated and properly pinned, using connectors and the such. so, in that manner, we are both wrong.
every single time i have had to fix peoples stereos and wiring, it was always crimped, go figure.
now, calm down
Lloyd
B) do not make blanket statements saying that everyone is stupid for not doing it 1 way or another
C) i have worked in several VERY high end custom stereo shops, and all my work i do has been looked over and complimented by people who set standards in car audio and custom wiring
D) look at any and all repairs made by REAL certified techs (myself included) at ANY dealership or anything involving warrenties. they do not accept crimping, if its not soldered/heat shrink and re terminated per oem standards they WILL void warrenties.
lastly, youre right, there are no soldered wires on oem looms, they are all terminated and properly pinned, using connectors and the such. so, in that manner, we are both wrong.
every single time i have had to fix peoples stereos and wiring, it was always crimped, go figure.
now, calm down
Lloyd
03-12-11, 01:26 AM
#34
A) calm down and stop insulting us, you are in the wrong when you start doing that
B) do not make blanket statements saying that everyone is stupid for not doing it 1 way or another
C) i have worked in several VERY high end custom stereo shops, and all my work i do has been looked over and complimented by people who set standards in car audio and custom wiring
D) look at any and all repairs made by REAL certified techs (myself included) at ANY dealership or anything involving warrenties. they do not accept crimping, if its not soldered/heat shrink and re terminated per oem standards they WILL void warrenties.
lastly, youre right, there are no soldered wires on oem looms, they are all terminated and properly pinned, using connectors and the such. so, in that manner, we are both wrong.
every single time i have had to fix peoples stereos and wiring, it was always crimped, go figure.
now, calm down
Lloyd
B) do not make blanket statements saying that everyone is stupid for not doing it 1 way or another
C) i have worked in several VERY high end custom stereo shops, and all my work i do has been looked over and complimented by people who set standards in car audio and custom wiring
D) look at any and all repairs made by REAL certified techs (myself included) at ANY dealership or anything involving warrenties. they do not accept crimping, if its not soldered/heat shrink and re terminated per oem standards they WILL void warrenties.
lastly, youre right, there are no soldered wires on oem looms, they are all terminated and properly pinned, using connectors and the such. so, in that manner, we are both wrong.
every single time i have had to fix peoples stereos and wiring, it was always crimped, go figure.
now, calm down
Lloyd
Your first post here was a poke where you told me I did the wiring wrong. In your next post you showed your ***. The next post you made **** up.
Now you try to act like a *grown-up* and scold me because don't like the way I respond? You are hurt that I am insulting you and you tell me to calm down? You, with the caps key stuck down? Really?
If you don't like my tone here, maybe you should look at the tone you brought to this thread. We could have agreed that we each prefer a different way to make connections as a discussion, but you started the trouble by telling me I did the wiring wrong. Then in each and every post you have escalated.
I have given you my reasons, including the mechanics, industry practice, and manufacture's requirements to support crimping over soldering. Do what ever you like. Don't tell me that I am doing it wrong. That is just not a true statement.
If you don't like the way I communicate then go the hell away. With all respect due.
09-22-12, 05:25 AM
#36
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this is great. can i do this wit my 89vert also?
i was bout to take out the volume control for my headrest speakers. lol. its late(3am) n im to lazy to go check my car; but u said that u hv factory subs in ur car. i hv a 89rx7 vert w/no airbag n i dnt believe my car has factory subs. can u post up pics of where this is? n is the factory subs only on 90 n up?
I took out my power antena so do i still do wat u did wit the relay? where did u get ur relay from?
i was bout to take out the volume control for my headrest speakers. lol. its late(3am) n im to lazy to go check my car; but u said that u hv factory subs in ur car. i hv a 89rx7 vert w/no airbag n i dnt believe my car has factory subs. can u post up pics of where this is? n is the factory subs only on 90 n up?
I took out my power antena so do i still do wat u did wit the relay? where did u get ur relay from?
09-23-12, 01:24 AM
#39
Driving RX7's since 1979
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If you took out the factory power antenna and put in a a fixed one, then you have nothing to relay to. The relay is an add on thing you do to make an factory antenna work with an aftermarket head unit.
05-15-16, 03:01 PM
#42
buc7
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everything works
Well Jack, have been reading over several of your posts. Been working other things on my 91 vert and finally decided it was time for tunes (original stereo dead). Followed your method and "everything works"! Whole new driving experience - never had the headrest speakers working prior. Thanks. Gonna tackle the alternator changeover soon.
Buc7
Boca Raton, FL
Buc7
Boca Raton, FL
05-17-16, 07:06 AM
#43
Well Jack, have been reading over several of your posts. Been working other things on my 91 vert and finally decided it was time for tunes (original stereo dead). Followed your method and "everything works"! Whole new driving experience - never had the headrest speakers working prior. Thanks. Gonna tackle the alternator changeover soon.
Buc7
Boca Raton, FL
Buc7
Boca Raton, FL
Glad it works for you, too! Don't forget to upgrade those headrest speakers for the max enjoyment.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...cement-814287/
Last edited by jackhild59; 05-17-16 at 07:18 AM.
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