S5 rebuild won't start...
S5 rebuild won't start...
What is this braided wire is it a ground? It's located at the begining of the eng harness the O2 sensor plug runs with it.. Also why won't it start? I might try to pull start it in the morning if I can't get it to start.. Any suggestions?
If it's wrapped around the O2 sensor wire, that's just a shield. Use a wire loom to cover it. As for not starting , did you stab the CAS corrrectly? Remove the black cover and align the pointer. Before you stab it back in allgin the yellow timing mark and the pointer. When ytou stab it back it use a flathead screwdriver to keep the pointer from moving. Remove all spark plugs and crank it a couple times to blow out whatever silicone or debris is in the combustion. Put the plugs back in and it should start . I've never had a problem starting a new rebuild flllowing the above. Of course re-check if all the connectors are in such as the AFM and prime the fuel system.
If everything is in check, there's no need for push/pull start.
If everything is in check, there's no need for push/pull start.
Last edited by boosted1205; Nov 20, 2004 at 11:58 PM.
I don't think it's wrapped with the O2 sensor. It's just in the same loom. maybe it's nothing but just wanted to make sure.. will restab the cas. I hear sometimes the cas gets stabbed 180 deg out. is that possible?
It is possible. I had to help someone check a non starting car after he put back the front cover and the pointer was waaay off position . Re-stabbed it and started right up.
That wire you speak of, is it silverish (can't tell from the picture)? . Is it near the back towards the firewall? If it is, it's just ground wire that bolts to the firewall near the wiper motor.
The bottom of the CAS , there's a mating mark. You need to align that as well when you stab the CAS.
So..
remove black cover
align the bottom of the CAS with the mating mark
use a screwdriver to keep the pointer in place when you re-stab it.
align the yellow timing mark with the pointer on the front cover.
remove the spark plugs and crank a couple times.
jump the yellow connector on the passenger tower to pressurize the fuel system.
The car SHOULD start. If not, re-check the AFM connector.
That wire you speak of, is it silverish (can't tell from the picture)? . Is it near the back towards the firewall? If it is, it's just ground wire that bolts to the firewall near the wiper motor.
The bottom of the CAS , there's a mating mark. You need to align that as well when you stab the CAS.
So..
remove black cover
align the bottom of the CAS with the mating mark
use a screwdriver to keep the pointer in place when you re-stab it.
align the yellow timing mark with the pointer on the front cover.
remove the spark plugs and crank a couple times.
jump the yellow connector on the passenger tower to pressurize the fuel system.
The car SHOULD start. If not, re-check the AFM connector.
Last edited by boosted1205; Nov 21, 2004 at 12:35 AM.
Sorry...mis-read the O2 sensor wire. If it is in the same loom , that is the shield.
Actually it isn't wrapped but in the same loom. It's there to shield interference for the O2 sensor.
Actually it isn't wrapped but in the same loom. It's there to shield interference for the O2 sensor.
restabed cas and still no start. After i line up mark on pulley and cas and stab it I try and start eng then i pull cas again should the mark still be lined up when i align yellow mark and pull the cas again ? Just wondering
Last edited by gonzz; Nov 21, 2004 at 01:23 AM.
Originally Posted by gonzz
restabed cas and still no start. After i line ip mark on pulley and cas and stab it. When i line it up again should the mark still be lined up when i pull it again? Just wondering
Hmm...maybe it's just flooded?? Did you try unflooding it? Pull the EGI fuse and crank a few seconds. Put the fuse back in and try again.
Does it sound like it's going to catch???
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I pulled the fuse and nothing. It sounded like it wanted to catch a few times. Maybe i should try and pull start it. Should i do a comp test on it? It's a new rebuild
No, it's going to show low compression on a rebuild. If it sounds like it's going to catch, it may be very flooded. Stupid me...I read it's an S5. They have a "anti flood" built into the car. Keep the gas pedal floored to cut off the fuel pump on cranking.
Try this a few times and if all else fails.....I guess you could push start it.
Did you check the spark plugs if it's coated with fuel?
You did plug in the CAS connector right? Just checking.
Try this a few times and if all else fails.....I guess you could push start it.
Did you check the spark plugs if it's coated with fuel?
You did plug in the CAS connector right? Just checking.
I think you should re-check all the connectors . A rebuild should start albeit a bit difficult at times but it should start without a push start.
The only time I had a REALLY difficult time was when I missed a brake booster hose on the back of the throttle body. I looked over that damn motor for a whole day and after a good rest I found it. Go get a beer and look over it again. It's probably something really stupid and you'll hit yourself afterwards.
The only time I had a REALLY difficult time was when I missed a brake booster hose on the back of the throttle body. I looked over that damn motor for a whole day and after a good rest I found it. Go get a beer and look over it again. It's probably something really stupid and you'll hit yourself afterwards.
There are several grounds. The main one is the one at the starter bolt. But that isn't going to cause your problem but just hesitations .
Ones off the top of my head are:
block to firewall
harness to block (under the throttle body)
below the stock air box(behind the pass. headlight)
battery to starter bolt
Ones off the top of my head are:
block to firewall
harness to block (under the throttle body)
below the stock air box(behind the pass. headlight)
battery to starter bolt
Grounds attached to the body is to have well...better grounding. It shouldn't cause it to not start.
After thinking about this problem, it just may be too flooded or just really low compression. One way to build compression is to inject oil that fuel has washed away
from flooding. Inject oil ( maybe a capful) into the leading holes and rotate the motor by hand to coat the housings. Be warned though , it will smoke a bit so you shouldn't do it if neighbors are near by.
After thinking about this problem, it just may be too flooded or just really low compression. One way to build compression is to inject oil that fuel has washed away
from flooding. Inject oil ( maybe a capful) into the leading holes and rotate the motor by hand to coat the housings. Be warned though , it will smoke a bit so you shouldn't do it if neighbors are near by.
YOU say you have spark.
Try this, it takes but twenty minutes max. Pull the two lower sparkplugs. Go to start the engine. Let it rotate for about ten seconds or so. Question......did you get a fuel mist out of the two sparkplug holes when the engine was spinning???? IF you did NOT....then you have a fuel delivery problem. Either your fuel hoses at the engine are swapped or for one reason or the other the fuel pump isn't pumping. It's not likely a fuse since you have spark and the fuses responsible for fuel and spark are mostly the same ones.
The most important grounds are the one large wire at the starter from the battery and the same large wire that tee's off at the left strut tower and supplies the main chassis ground.
The next most important ground is for the ECU and is located on the top of the rear rotor housing on a ring connector that is bolted down. To access that ground you have to pull the upper intake...........or use a meter at the ECU plugs to check for ohms on the three/four ground wires to see if it is connected up. Probably is since you have spark.
I suggest it's a fuel issue. Do the sparkplug out check described above. You also might invest in a can of starter fluid and spray that in the air filter for a second then try to start the engine. If it now shows sign of life for a brief moment......then it's for sure a fuel issue that needs investigation.
Try this, it takes but twenty minutes max. Pull the two lower sparkplugs. Go to start the engine. Let it rotate for about ten seconds or so. Question......did you get a fuel mist out of the two sparkplug holes when the engine was spinning???? IF you did NOT....then you have a fuel delivery problem. Either your fuel hoses at the engine are swapped or for one reason or the other the fuel pump isn't pumping. It's not likely a fuse since you have spark and the fuses responsible for fuel and spark are mostly the same ones.
The most important grounds are the one large wire at the starter from the battery and the same large wire that tee's off at the left strut tower and supplies the main chassis ground.
The next most important ground is for the ECU and is located on the top of the rear rotor housing on a ring connector that is bolted down. To access that ground you have to pull the upper intake...........or use a meter at the ECU plugs to check for ohms on the three/four ground wires to see if it is connected up. Probably is since you have spark.
I suggest it's a fuel issue. Do the sparkplug out check described above. You also might invest in a can of starter fluid and spray that in the air filter for a second then try to start the engine. If it now shows sign of life for a brief moment......then it's for sure a fuel issue that needs investigation.
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