S5 Oil Line Questions, and Engine Recognition
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S5 Oil Line Questions, and Engine Recognition
Howdy all,
I haven't been here in a while, and I'm looking at trading for a 88 Turbo II with a "Series 5 Turbo II motor" that came out of a 91.
I'm drawing a few red flags here with the whole motor deal, first off, wasn't it just called a RX-7 Turbo in 91? I believe the Turbo II was dropped right near the beginning of s5? How would I be able to tell the difference between the s4 and s5 turbo motors without taking the car apart first? I want to verify this before I start assembling a time bomb of mismatched parts just in case the guy I'm getting the car from was misinformed. I couldn't find any help here searching or in the FAQ.
Second Question, the car apparently needs four oil lines that can be bought at the dealer for $150, I'm ASSUMING (I feel stupid for doing this already) that they are the lines for the Turbo, and if so, what are the other options besides going to the dealer? I see no sense in putting in factory parts if there may be sturdier alternatives available elsewhere. I'm looking to turn this car into a reliable 300-400rwhp daily(ish) driver and may need some advice on this later, but for now, I just want to see if it would even make sense to spring for stainless braided lines, or something similar and save the time "upgrading" later.
Any help would be great.
I haven't been here in a while, and I'm looking at trading for a 88 Turbo II with a "Series 5 Turbo II motor" that came out of a 91.
I'm drawing a few red flags here with the whole motor deal, first off, wasn't it just called a RX-7 Turbo in 91? I believe the Turbo II was dropped right near the beginning of s5? How would I be able to tell the difference between the s4 and s5 turbo motors without taking the car apart first? I want to verify this before I start assembling a time bomb of mismatched parts just in case the guy I'm getting the car from was misinformed. I couldn't find any help here searching or in the FAQ.
Second Question, the car apparently needs four oil lines that can be bought at the dealer for $150, I'm ASSUMING (I feel stupid for doing this already) that they are the lines for the Turbo, and if so, what are the other options besides going to the dealer? I see no sense in putting in factory parts if there may be sturdier alternatives available elsewhere. I'm looking to turn this car into a reliable 300-400rwhp daily(ish) driver and may need some advice on this later, but for now, I just want to see if it would even make sense to spring for stainless braided lines, or something similar and save the time "upgrading" later.
Any help would be great.
#2
Cake or Death?
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Second Question, the car apparently needs four oil lines that can be bought at the dealer for $150, I'm ASSUMING (I feel stupid for doing this already) that they are the lines for the Turbo, and if so, what are the other options besides going to the dealer? I see no sense in putting in factory parts if there may be sturdier alternatives available elsewhere. I'm looking to turn this car into a reliable 300-400rwhp daily(ish) driver and may need some advice on this later, but for now, I just want to see if it would even make sense to spring for stainless braided lines, or something similar and save the time "upgrading" later.
Any help would be great.
Any help would be great.
These lines carry oil from a small pump on the front cover and inject it into the rotor housings.
The lines are @$125 or so new from the dealer or they can be rebuilt.
A search of the forum (keyword: OMP lines) should bring up lots of info.
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Thanks clokker, will search tonight.
arghx, I know what you mean, I'm definitely going to be doing a lot of talking to this guy to figure it out, but it's seriously an offer I almost can't refuse. The car comes with a ton of extra parts, I believe including the old motor, and three sets of wheels with tires, plus the way the situation worked out, the guy I'm getting it from just needs to ditch it for a commuter car, I feel bad for him, but he's willing to go for a civic, and when all's said and done, I could be getting the car from him for the equivalent of $500, and I think that's worth it, even if I have to fix some mistakes (or redo the whole swap... in which case I'll be doing my first rotary rebuild =]) I'm not expecting this to be a turnkey rocket car, but it's a freaking steal.
arghx, I know what you mean, I'm definitely going to be doing a lot of talking to this guy to figure it out, but it's seriously an offer I almost can't refuse. The car comes with a ton of extra parts, I believe including the old motor, and three sets of wheels with tires, plus the way the situation worked out, the guy I'm getting it from just needs to ditch it for a commuter car, I feel bad for him, but he's willing to go for a civic, and when all's said and done, I could be getting the car from him for the equivalent of $500, and I think that's worth it, even if I have to fix some mistakes (or redo the whole swap... in which case I'll be doing my first rotary rebuild =]) I'm not expecting this to be a turnkey rocket car, but it's a freaking steal.
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I think you're referring to the OMP lines, not anything to do with the turbo.
These lines carry oil from a small pump on the front cover and inject it into the rotor housings.
The lines are @$125 or so new from the dealer or they can be rebuilt.
A search of the forum (keyword: OMP lines) should bring up lots of info.
These lines carry oil from a small pump on the front cover and inject it into the rotor housings.
The lines are @$125 or so new from the dealer or they can be rebuilt.
A search of the forum (keyword: OMP lines) should bring up lots of info.
#6
Listen to King Diamond.
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Shoot me. I remember those. I hate them. I have nothing but swear words for them right now. I remember dealing with them, and their little fittings on an NA engine swap that I did a while back. PLEASE tell me there's another option besides the factory plastic-that's-supposed-to-be-rubber lines? Or some way to keep them from becoming a total pita whenever I get around to the inevitable future rebuild? (I'm not planning on getting rid of this car EVER if I get it. It WILL have to be rebuilt eventually, and I'll be damned if I'm going to pass up on the diy experience)
Here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/
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I've seen SS braided OMP lines, but I think that's a bit overkill. There's a nice write-up for rebuilding the lines with better tubing around here somewhere.
Here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=348068
Here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=348068
I can't tell you how much happier I am now that you've enlightened me. Seriously, my buddy dropped one of the OMP lines we were working with, and it basically shattered. I agree that SS braided is a little overkill, especially for their price, but I couldn't think of anything else that might work. Kudos.
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#8
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http://www.banzai-racing.com/faq_housings_ID.htm
Easiest thing I can think of is to see where the knock sensor is. IIRC, S4's have them on the center iron.
I rebuilt the lines as well and have had excellent results. Just make sure the slack doesn't rub on the air pump belt (if you plan on keeping it installed).
Easiest thing I can think of is to see where the knock sensor is. IIRC, S4's have them on the center iron.
I rebuilt the lines as well and have had excellent results. Just make sure the slack doesn't rub on the air pump belt (if you plan on keeping it installed).
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http://www.banzai-racing.com/faq_housings_ID.htm
Easiest thing I can think of is to see where the knock sensor is. IIRC, S4's have them on the center iron.
I rebuilt the lines as well and have had excellent results. Just make sure the slack doesn't rub on the air pump belt (if you plan on keeping it installed).
Easiest thing I can think of is to see where the knock sensor is. IIRC, S4's have them on the center iron.
I rebuilt the lines as well and have had excellent results. Just make sure the slack doesn't rub on the air pump belt (if you plan on keeping it installed).
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