That's my suspension on the car huh? If it is, glad to be part of it =). After selling it to you for a steal, I had a lot more PMs with higher prices. I guess it was just a bad time to sell and you were there to capitalize. Looks great though. Thumbs up.

 

yep, that's it.

 

Atomising the air? Assuming you mean fuel, whatever minor effect the ribs might have would be long gone by the time the air has passed through the TB and manifold to reach the injectors.

 

My harbor blue S5 wishes it was as hot as your harbor blue S5.

...but it's driver has no time or money, and lacks severely in the effort department...

...that, and it takes enough time to just *fix* it...

I take it the car had an *impeccable* undercarriage (rust/dent-wise) to begin with?

 

absolutely gorgeous, wish there were more like that in my area that i could drool at

 

Yea atomizing probably wasn't the best terminology to use. I just figured Mazda designed it that way to create turbulence.

 

Beautiful. When should we be expecting dyno #'s and a nice vid to go with it?

 

Dyno numbers, probably a long way off, or never. I'm more likely to have numbers on my twin turbo Denali than I am this near stock FC.

Video, possibly a deals gap run if I can get a camera and mount set up in time...

 

man, i can't stop looking at this thread.
this car is one the best stock lookin cars i've seen.
mad props to RotaryResurrection.
i hope my N/A to Turbo swap becomes as successful as yours.
just gotta wait for my engine to be rebuilt.

good stuff man.

 

this car is great it sparked a ton of ideas for my S4/Jspec FC not saying i'm stealing ideas it just kicked my brain into creation mode thanks man this thread is great

 

You don't want unnecessary turbulance in the intake duct, it's just causes a restriction. Turbulence is only useful for mixing, and there's nothing to mix with until the very end of the intake path.

The duct has to be flexible because the airbox is bolted to the chassis but the engine moves, hence the corrugations.

 

Beautiful car Kevin, thanks for taking the time to document it all for us!

 

I have gotten several questions about my OMP/2 cycle reservoir setup since I started this thread, so I thought I would give a 5 month update. So far my reservoir has held up perfectly and does not leak and does not appear to have weakened at all. Well, if I fill it up too high, it does leak a little, as the rubber seals on the screw on cap have swelled up some. I've had no issues with anything else on the system. The plastic nipple I used on the OMP does seep a small amount of oil out at the base where it meets the OMP, but never enough to hit the ground. I just spray the front cover/oilpan/subframe off once every couple of months and it's not an issue.

I do go through more 2 cycle than one would think normal...over a long period of time (1-2k miles) my crankcase oil level does rise slightly so I believe I am getting a slight bit of cross contamination. I suppose the jb weld "wall" I created is not sealed 100% at the edges and is letting a little seepage by. A better way would probably be to have a small aluminum plate welded into the passage to prevent seepage.

Also a few changes took place on the car itself since this writeup. I've went with an escort 2 speed e-fan, triggered by the s5 FC turbo thermoswitch (low speed) and/or a/c activation (high speed). This helped the a/c function FAR better than it did with the clutch fan, especially at low speed.

I added water/meth injection and modified a 10th anniversary headlight washer fluid reservoir to fit behind the s5 fog light in the drivers side fender where the bottle goes.

I also added a NTK/AFX wideband and mounted it above my turnsignal switch.

The exhaust/DP cutout didn't work as advertised...it was a constant exhaust leak even when closed, and it annoyed me far too much to leave it alone. I wound up removing it and running a straight 3" downpipe/midpipe instead. Even so, the greddy catback keeps the noise under control and the tone is incredibly deep for a straight exhaust rotary. It does drone quite a bit around 3krpm, and it seems to keep me from shooting any flames for some reason.

My t04E started smoking so I removed it and currently have the stock turbo in place. I also removed the FCON at the same time since it was unnecessary with the stock turbo, and have since decided to go GT35R with the AP Engineering Power FC and probably a set of 1600 secondaries.

 

very nice. how much did you spend on the motor alone? you think there's a place where i can just buy a TII motor? running or blown?

 

I bought a whole s5 turbo II car to use as a swap donor. Since I'm a builder and powdercoater myself I really didn't spend anything on the motor except a few hundred bucks in parts and materials.

 

tell us about your Rx-8. did you buy it with a blown motor? one of those OMP bug-ridden cars?

 

Thanks for the OMP/2 cycle reservoir update because without that update I may have never found this thread. The car turned out amazing. I feel inspired.

 

the rx-8 was a lady owned, commuter 111k original mile automatic 04 (the most problem ridden models to date) that had been in a light wreck and was repaired locally. It has a few small issues and the airbags were deployed and not replaced...so the light is on in the dash, and the passenger dash has a patch sewed over it (looks like a padded glovebox door, not too bad). I picked it up for 10,500 out the door including taxes. The car is dog slow and is a bit weak on starting, but never floods and runs normally going down the road. I've gotten 23mpg out of it on the highway. For stock, the bose sound system is pretty kick *** too, and the car is a sweet daily driver that my little boy fits into well.

I took it and had it repainted, tinted windows, along with adding the appearance package/ground effects, springs, new tires, exhaust tips, and repainted rims (they were scratched and faded). I wound up putting FC 89-91 aero mirrors on it because the stockers are kinda shitty looking and also hard to see out of...the FC mirrors fit like they came on the car, literally, and look kickass.

Threw some new potenza s-03s that tirerack had for $129 each on it. I painted the rusty brake rotors/calipers that everyone bitches about on those cars...because the wheels are so large and "open" the rusty brakes make the car look bad. Also put on a midpipe that probably made it slower, but the main cat was badly clogged and was generating a lot of heat.

I am still contemplating which direction to go with it...6 port/6 speed swap, or some sort of older 13b turbo swap (rew, etc.) or maybe if a good enough deal on a clip pops up, a 20B swap. Or I might just drive it until it lets go.

I have premixed it since I bought it and it helped starting a little bit, but you can tell the engine is tired.

 

ahh sweeet. question though, when u rebuilt ur engine. did u need a hydraulic press? i'm hoping not so i don't spend as much money on mine haha. and does anyone think i could find a blown TII engine i could buy? or should i just go to a wrecking yard?

 

you only need a press to change rotor and/or main bearings...in a half decently maintained FC engine this is normally not necessary, and in fact used bearings in good shape are preferable to new ones IMO.

All you really need to rebuild a rotary is a parts washer tank (or some tupperware bins) and a 5 gallon bucket, if you want to be totally honest about it.

 

20B RX8 FTW! Now that would be an N/A to be recconed with.

Thanks for the update on the 2 cycle resevoir , I'm considering doing that myself

 

since there seems to be some interest, just for the hell of it (I changed the mirrors and had the wheels painted since):

 

Kevin, about the OMP mod...
About how large is that tank and how long does it last?
I know you suspect it is leaking into the oilpan (a bit) but a general idea would suffice.

 

Do you have the water path on your lower intake welded off? If so, why?

 

Glad to hear the tank is working out for you. I guess it stands to reason that Mazda would use petroleum compatible plastic in an engine bay.