vrracing

iTrader: (1)

We have the short block on the JDM TII assembled and except for a Walbro fuel pump and a TII throttle cable I think I have everything we need to do the swap (though I suspect during the long block assembly I'll find something else I need).

So I was thinking about the initial startup procedure and wanted to bounce some ideas/assertions off yall.

My understanding is that once you start it up you want to let it run at a fast idle for a couple or several hours to let the new seals break in. I also understand that with all the Crisco and assembly lube it's gonna smoke like crazy for the bulk of that time.

Since I dont want to dump all that oily crap into my new Bonez cat and Corksport cat-back, I was going to do that break-in with the down pipe removed. Good? Loud, smoky and annoying, but good?

I have a N374 that I've tested in the vert (with the NA engine) and it seemed to work just fine. So I assume it's not one of the 9 out of 10 bad ones. But, for the initial start I was thinking of just leaving the vert ECU in there. That eliminates an undiagnosable variable during the inevitable initial start troubleshooting and for several hours of fast idle break-in shouldnt hurt anything. Right?

If I leave the vert ECU in there, I should also leave the NA AFM/MAF in there as well and wait to put the TII AFM/MAF until after it's working well, correct?

I will also want to leave the NA fuel pump in until after the fast idle break-in is complete. Yes?

Rotary Resurrection didn't heavily lube up the inside components during the build and instead primed the oiling system before startup. Aaron Cake's build looked like a Fangoria prop by comparison (his assembly lube of choice looks like blood) but I think he was going to be starting the engine fairly quickly. I assume you prime the oiling system by removing the FI fuse like you would during a deflooding procedure and then crank until you get some pressure. Correct?

Since I assembled mine largely dry (I used assembly lube on the bearings and Crisco on the seals to hold them together) like Kevin shows, should I squirt some 2-stroke oil in the plug holes like you would do with ATF for a deflood to give it some lubrication love and a bit of compression before trying to start it?

Any other initial startup tricks and tips I should be aware of?

Thanks. And especially thanks to Kevin and Aaron for the write-ups. They were both incredibly helpful and made the process a lot more fun than it would have been otherwise.

Jim

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

Never tried it.. and probably never would. Correct me if I'm wrong, But the exhaust thats going to be coming out of the turbo will be better than several hundred degrees which is about a foot away from your firewall. I would give your car about 15-20 seconds before something starts smoking that isnt supposed to be. What you could try is connecting the downpipe to a piece of pipe (not plastic or PVC as they will melt) and have that run out the back/side of the car. Whatever oil and residue that collects on the downpipe will most likely burn off easily with some spirited driving and not get in the rest of your exhaust system.

You can (and probably should) put the TII fuel pump in now although if all your doing is idling and easy driving then there should be no problems running the N/A fuel pump at first if you dont have the TII one yet. Just dont boost.

Yes Charge the oil system by disconnecting the EGI fuse and crank it for 20 seconds to build oil pressure.

You could just put a spoonful of regular or 2 stroke oil into the leading spark plug hole and turn the engine over slowly a few times to make sure that it covers everything. You will need this to get the necessary compression.

You can use the n/a ECU to initially break in the engine since you wont be running boost. I believe your idle will be a tad high though and it wont run as smooth as it would if you run the n374 but it should be fine for the break in period. And yes you can use your N/A AFM during that period. But when you want to start really driving you will need the TII ECU, AFM, And pressure sensor.

Hope this helps.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Dot.