all 3 pulses were around 35 psi on the tester! 35 psi pulses are good not bad it's a sign of a healthy engine not one that needs a rebuild. both housings at 115

 

No, 35 PSI indicates either a faulty test or an engine on its death bed. 80 PSI minimum per face for a usable engine. For instance the 13b I built for my SA tests 6 pulses at 110-115 PSI each. Did you remove the schrader valve on the tester?

 

Compression test using a piston engine tester:
1. note battery strength. A weak battery will yield low compression results.
2. Remove both lower plugs and wires.
3. remove EGI fuse from engine fusebox.
4. have a friend floor the accelerator pedal, opening the throttle for more airflow
5. insert your tester into the leading hole
6. hold the valve on the side of the tester open
7. have your friend crank the car over for 5+ seconds.
8. observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35 psi range.
9. let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
10. repeat for opposite rotor. Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be no more than 20psi max.


that's on the rotaryressurrection website. I'm using a piston tester maybe that's why you're saying the motors junk :p

 

Take the valve out. That method is incorrect. I'm not sure why Kevin would post instructions like that.

 

Kevin's method doesn't leave much to the imagination as far as compression resolution for real engine health measurement.

i have never used his method because every tester is different and can bleed air out of the tester valve at very different rates. that method is very antiquated and doesn't really tell you much aside from the possibility that you have a completely dead rotor without spending 30 seconds to remove the schraeder valve from the hose.

if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere with a piston tester and no way of removing the valve, then i suppose this is the only way you could get any information from your engine as far as each rotor face is concerned. but it's still rather worthless information.