Brian Deane

just wondering if there's any success with this I've tried searching it but no luck! would be awesome!!!!

jjwalker

Did you pass inspection is the first question.

Second question is, what do you mean by 2 step? You mean driving the car to redline and getting fireballs out the back?

Brian Deane

I did pass! told him about the switch before he drove it in and exactly! just welded a straight pipe all the way back to my new y pipes with 2 new mufflers. also with 1 resonator in there. I can shoot flames sometimes but 3 inches or so out of one pipe it's boring :p

also new problem! got a stupid light for add coolant under 3k rpm and the annoying buzzer goes off. got coolant and not overheating so is there air in the system or something? it's terribly annoying at stop lights

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Check for leaks. Water pump weep hole, coolant level sensor, radiator, hoses... If there are no leaks and the coolant level sensor is good... the coolant seals are suspect.

Ground the single coolant level sensor wire to the frame and see if the light goes away. It should. Honestly just replace the sensor given its age.

Brian Deane

well today I checked the overflow tank and it was like full to the top. I took it off and drained it all til it was at the full line and I drove around for an hour or so and it was fine then I hit a nice bump and it came on and now it goes on under 3k rpm cruising. the car only has 78k miles I wouldn't imagine it having any engine/seal problems

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

First you need to understand what is meant by 2 step. 2 Step refers to both ignition and fuel adjustments at a set RPM to build boost basically. Which you are not trying to do as you are N/A, so no. Which is also why you aren't coming up with any results...

Simply put anyhow.

Brian Deane

2 step is a method of controlling your revs between 2 set rpm points(2 step) with yes fuel cut and ignition adjustments but you're talking about anti lag you can get 2 step on na cars with a tuned ecu and usually msd coils. just wondering if it was possible for a rotary because that option to throw fireballs would be cool to have

jjwalker

My MSD box has 2 step control, I don't use it though.

Sounds more like you want to shoot flames. If I take off under WOT and shift at around 8500 rpm I get BANG BANG, but NA is also modified.

Brian Deane

which box is it!? and I just get one loud bang after 7k rpm and it shoots baby flames sometimes. could I unplug my air pump and zip tie my vdi open? would everything work properly besides being a little slower at start

NCross

iTrader: (18)

It may only have 78,000 miles, but its still 30 years old. I'm not trying to scare you or anything, but it's a possibility. Usually when a seal goes the exhaust gasses and engine compression push coolant out through the expansion tank aka overflow bottle.

Brian Deane

well you did scare me! I don't think it's that. I hope not! I never really checked it when I got the car a bit ago the radiator was topped off and the overflow was full maybe he overfilled it. BUT when I come back from a drive there is air pressure in there I see bubbles and if I hold my finger over the hose for a few seconds and let go pressurized air comes out but that may be just the pressure in the whole cooling system right?

also after I emptied the overflow to the full marker after I saw it was to the top it now stays at full now more coolant goes in it and the car doesn't burn coolant and no white smoke or any smoke for that matter!

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

This. You can't rely on the presence of coolant in the overflow tank to indicate lack of air in the pressurized cooling system. You might have a small leak, or simply air trapped somewhere. Or, a bad seal could be letting combustion gases in - although often that is accompanied by an overflowing coolant recovery tank, as the combustion gases push coolant out. I'm a little concerned, given you said the recovery tank was "full to the top" - it shouldn't be, the max line is like 1/3 of the way up, and represents maybe a pint of coolant, if that (I'm not sure of the precise volume, I just know I've added coolant in very small quantities to bring the level up when I did have a slow leak at the coolant level sensor a few years ago.

Check, or just replace your rad cap. If it's defective (and it's old, it could very well be), it might not be holding the specified pressure, so it will allow more coolant to overflow than it should, and it might not be sealing well enough for to siphon it back as the system cools. Given the age of the car, you can't assume low mileage counts for much - too-infrequent or lack of use can lead to seals drying, bearings flat-spotting, internal engine bits shedding all their lube between uses and essentially starting up dry or even rust with moisture from the air, suspension bushings permanently distort from remaining statically loaded, and so on.

Years ago (like early-to- mid-80s years ago), when I was in high school, I would pick up this old lady to take her to church or shopping, and drive her car. It was a Chevy Citation, only a few years old, and with only a few 1,000 kms on it - and it looked mint, but ran like rubbish (quite aside from the fact it was sort of a rubbish car to begin with). She never drove it, and it had sat for months or even years at a time after her husband died - she never drove herself.

My own first car had some similar issues - a "barn find" of sorts, it had belonged to an older fellow who drove it little in his declining years, and was sold by his son after he passed or was put in a home. In any event, was in pretty minty condition, looked great, but had two broken rings which necessitated an engine rebuild eventually (though even with that, it ran much better than the church-lady's car), and a transmission seal let go leading to a major repair as well, all at pretty low mileage. It was still a good deal for me, but mostly because I didn't pay much for it, and fixed a lot of things myself.

General point being, things age out and fail on cars regardless of low mileage. And sometimes, precisely because of it.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I had a series 5 vert a few years back that apparently I purchased with failed coolant seals. The car ran great for the first week I owned it then I decided to do some routine maintenance (shame on me...). I did a coolant flush and refilled with fresh coolant. I happened to see my drive way was very... glittery. Needless to say it was Alumaseal. I immediately noticed it was harder to start and ran warmer. I then noticed the low coolant buzzer came on after it reached operating temperature even after topping off the coolant.

Well after shutting it down the coolant would flood the chambers making it a real PITA to start. Then... I found it was boiling out of the over flow tank.

So what did I do? I got rid of it. I was honest about the problem, but after only owning it for 2 weeks with the bad juju of a blown engine I couldn't prepare myself for what else could be wrong. So 2 weeks is the shortest time I've owned an RX7... or any car for that matter.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you'll get a "bang bang" pretty soon.


abuse an old car and it will abuse you 10 times back, while it's on jackstands, raping your wallet.

jjwalker

Just to be clear, my drivetrain is brand new. I drive my car back and forth to work everyday and the few times I jump on it is when getting on the highway. I figured this was partially directed at me due to you using the same "bang bang" term I used in a prior post.

I agree with you in regards to brians car, as there is a thread regarding him having coolant issues.

Brian Deane

wish I could afford a whole new motor tranny and rear end! life would be good lol but as the coolant problem hasn't given me any trouble yet ever since I dumped the excess out its been acting normal. I think the PO added too much and I didn't notice(I hope) haven't had any problems within a few days and I drive it all day daily just trying to see what's broke and what isn't. after the new brake master and clutch master and slave cyl she drives super smooth! too bad the inspection guy roasted my clutch pretty bad

jjwalker

MSD 6AL-2 Digital.

DO NOT WASTE THE MONEY unless you have modded your car. If it is bone stock, leave it the way it is, because for $350 for the MSD box, you will have absolutely no benefit.

Really brian, and I am saying this because I have been an RX7 owner now for 7 years and an automotive technician by trade for 8yrs....

Fix the car dude. Bleed the brakes, change the pads and get ceramic, bleed the clutch master and slave, change the fuel sock on the fuel pump, change out the fuel filter, replace the vacuum hoses!

The car is 30yrs old! You need to make it reliable enough to drive it back and forth to work everyday, and trust it to never leave you stranded. Once you have done that, THEN you can start modifying and adding stuff. If the car can't be reliable enough to drive you back and forth to work every day, with no fear, then you need to focus somewhere else. Reliability comes first!

Brian Deane

i completely understand that! but I have fixed all of that lol everything you listed besides the fuel pump sock I just cleaned it and now I don't have any problems turning and punching it. all the hoses under the hood are brand new! next I'm gonna change the water pump, thermostat and get new radiator hoses and then a t2 fuel pump. then get rid of that 20lb brick of a manifold lol but I do trust her right now without fear as it is just because it runs so damn good my last rx7 was so much worse

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my post was in regards to the OP, wanting a 2 step on for all we know an original ~30 year old engine, with likely upwards of 125k on it that is already waiting for a rebuild instead of a rev limiter launch control.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Don't get a t2 fuel pump, you don't need it

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Ceramic pads are junk for performance. We put them on a lot of customer cars by request for low noise and brake dust, but stopping power sucks compared to semi metallic or "hybrid" compounds like Hawk.

I do agree about the MSD. 2nd gen RX-7 has one of the best factory ignition setups around especially for its time period. If wired properly with nice coils you will see a difference on early rotary ignitions.

jjwalker

But I like my BBS wheels.

Brian Deane

car has 78k miles on it! decided to check the compression for the heck of it and both housings are at 115psi with 35psi pulses. that's pretty darn good imo for a non rebuilt motor that's been sitting in storage 4 years

lduley

iTrader: (1)

35 psi pulses, but 115 psi overall? Something about that doesn't sound right

NCross

iTrader: (18)

If one 35 PSI pulse you have a stuck side seal. If two 35 PSI pulses you have a stuck apex seal. Either way... try a water treatment. If that doesn't help... rebuild time.