OK, so I've searched this forum and could not find a decent write up on how to disable my MOP without gutting it. I did find a post about that but I also found a couple that said one didn't need to gut the pump in order to disable it. Could someone please help me out here and tell me exactally how to go about doing this? Pictures would be uber helpful, hint, hint.

 

K im not getting something here. Its an electric OMP, can you not just disconnect the wire? I mean the engine light will probably come on, but its simple?

 

Even if the the electronic OMP it unbolted from the engine, it must remain connected to the ECU or the ECU will go into limp mode. There is no way around this.

 

Yup. The car will act like a rev limiter at 3500 rpm.

 

This I know. Question is how do I stop it from injecting oil into my engine so I can start premixing?

 

You can premix even with it still on, that doesn't really matter. The only benefit of removing it and leaving it attached is so it doesn't fail and force the car in limp mode.

 

I have heard of some people disabling the OMP by unbolting it from the block (but keep it plugged into the ECU) and tying it up in the engine bay.

 

That's how most people do it. Remove the pump, injectors, lines, etc. Put a blockoff plate on the front cover to keep oil from spraying out. Ziptie the electric control unit firmly to the fender or such. ECU is happy, premix goes in, engine oil stays in the pan.

-=Russ=-

 

bwahah, i love my s4 ecu and my s5 motor. that thing will be in my trash can in a few days (when my block off plate gets here)

 

Don't forget to put bolts into the injector holes on the block!

 

yes yes, what sizes are thoes for tII's? (i beleave the sizes are different for turbo and NA)

 

45 seconds of searching turned this up:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=MOP+removal

6th post down from a search.

Can I get a forum sponsored Banning Gun?? Please

 

I know Guitarjunkie28 was working with someone who was looking for the way to omit the OMP (MOP) without having to keep it hooked up.

 

1978RX7guy, did you even read that thread? Its utterly useless as I have no idea what the "2 dimes method" is to keep the shaft from turning. If you could enlighten me as to what that may be that would be a little more helpful than your asinine banning gun comment.

 

Yea holy ****, you'd think someone would have figured this out by now. What I want to know, is when it IS on, what kinda of signal does it send to the ecu, and can you emulate it?

 

I was thinking the same thing and was about to investigate it myself since my OMP has gone haywire. It's stuck full on or something because I'm running insanely rich and my gas milage is at least 30% worse than it was a few weeks ago. So yeah, it's gotta' go but I don't want my car to drop in to limp mode.

 

I just posted this in a similar thread:

You are certainly not the first person to post a rough electronic theory explaining how easy this should be to do. However if it really is this simple, why is it that 16 years after the S5 was introduced, nobody has released a product that does this? Remember every Mazda rotary made since then (FD RX-7, JC Cosmo and RX-8) has an electronic OMP. Even in Japan, the land where one stock ECU and ten piggybacks is considered normal, there is nothing that can do this AFAIK. It's been talked about often on this forum, and someone usually says they know an easy way to do it, but it never happens. If someone actually does it (as opposed to just talking about it) then I will be truly impressed. But I'm not holding my breath...

 

It's actually stupidly simple to do with a microcontroller. I just don't have any motivation to do it....Sure, I could make a bunch, but knowing 90% of FC owners, I would NEVER SELL A SINGLE ONE.

 

Would it be so consuming to draw up a diagram so as to let the motivated S5 FC owners build their own?

I'd probably do that, since I want to go premix.

 

hahaha, man, your almost 'bitter' on the whole 'fc owners are cheap' thing going on.
I don't have an S5, never owned one, but I might in the future so, aaron, to motivate you, how much money are you going to need to make one. I'll pay in full via paypal for one unit to get you 'motivated' seriously.

 

I'd be interested in one if the prce was right...

 

And that price is....?

 

150 or under would be good for me, if I needed one...again. I'm on my second factory metering pump.

 

That price would be around $100, preferibly less.

 

Ha! Think $300 and up. And if you think that is expensive, grab your local yellow pages and look up "electronics enginner". Find a local firm, give them a call and explain your problem to get an estimate.

Remember, the cost of producing a QUALITY part is enormous. Designing the circuit is not a big deal, programming the micro is not a big deal. But tooling up to produce a quality case, PCB, sourcing connectors and TESTING under ALL circumstances is a huge undertaking. And that's not even considering the cost of the parts, troubleshooting "dud" circuits, etc.