the TPS won't read closed unless the fast idle cam has rotated away.

 

how do i know if this is happening?

 

your idle rpm should tell you. or familurize your self with the system from the FSM.

 

well i don't have a good base idle because timing is way off, can't get a good base timing with the pulley thats on there right now, gonna pull it off and throw another stocker on it to see if i can time it first then play with the microtech then i guess i'll have to see where my idle is at

 

the car is now up and running, the timing issue was the x4 ignighter, one of the chanels was firing when it wanted to, l1 and as for the throttle body its catching in its motion. we were able to tune the car even tho the throttle body was acting up. after driving it around the throttle body seems to return better now its not catching as bad. gonna drive it around some more and see if the throttle returns and if it does i'm gonna take this bad boy to the Bridgestone National Street Tire Challange in the morn. BTW 8 psi on a s5 6 port engine feels amazing.

 

Spray some pb blaster on the rod for the throttle plates. It'll loosen up the more you drive it.

 

Did that last night, thanks tho

 

update on how its going?

 

Sorry its been a while.....

Throttle body no longer sticks just needed some love. took it to the Bridgestone national street tire event and the car ran like ****. Turns out that when i tightened the glove box down i pinched the vacuum line to the lt-10s. figured that out after the event, needless to say i didn't run it like that.

As for the x4 i'm running the car on a borrowed one that my tuner let me use, until i buy one for myself, and he let me use a set of the bosch coils because one of mine took a ****. So earlier this week i decided to install MSD Blaster coils and the car likes them so i'm gonna run with that.

Disected the old engine harness and extracted the wiper motor wiring and instrument panel temp pigtail and wired that in yesterday. Still running 8 psi since my little 225/50-16 can't seam to take more than that at autox.

I just got back from an SCCA autox from today and i must say that the car is so much more fun to drive than before. I don't regret this descision one bit. Next in line is a set of wider wheels and tires, keep daily driving it and i'd like to step up to an aftermarket radiator like a koyo, fluidine, awr or something like that. Also can't wait to turn up the boost. But i do spike to 10 psi around 6500 or so.

 

fall update....
Took the car to another autoX event and it went good. noticing about 2-3 second difference from before. also took the car to the drag stip just to make a few light passes and ended up breaking a stub axle in the diff. Time to go t2 drivetrain. already have stuff on order.

 

motor is holding up? those timing maps I supplied working ok?

 

yea she's holding up real well. I used your maps for a nice base line, i went a little more aggressive with my new maps. there is still alot of timing pulled out tho. next season i think i'm gonna boost 14-17 lbs with a newly done map all the way around. thanks again.

 

Update:

Winter '10-Spring '11

New parts and upgrades...

-s5 t2 trans
-s4 t2 clutch type lsd diff and axles
-s5 t2 drive shaft
-pinion snubber mod
-upgraded rear subframe bushings (energy suspensions)
-new rear lateral links
-Exedy 12 lbs steel flywheel
-Spec stage 3+ clutch and pressure plate
-Mazda throw out bearing and pilot bearing
-Koyo N-Flow radiator
-Corsport fan shroud (modified to fit Koyo)
-Corksport oil cooler lines
-BBS RG II's Front, 17x8 +35 Rear, 17x9 +35
-Dunlop Dirreza Star Specs Front 245/40R-17 Rear 265/40R-17
-single exit 3" from down pipe back with Borla XR-1 muffler and dolphin turndown
-3 gauge pod for idiot lights
-Evo 8 Recaro seats


As if right now, the car is too loud for my liking, so this morning i ordered a Moroso Spiral flow muffler to use as a resonator. It should quiet down the exhaust 5-10 db which will make me legal for autox.

 

Any updates?

 

Nothing too crazy to report.

Winter 2011-Spring 2012

-The moroso spiral flow didnt work out so well so i purchased a large 3" Racing Beat pre silencer
-Purchased and installed Gilmer Drive with power steeing pulley add on, I think i'm the 1st or even only person here in the states to have the power steering pulley add on
-Ford Taurus e-fan mod

Parts to be ordered

-Ground Control complete coilover kit with koni 8610's possibly 8611's
-Rotary Works 80mm throttle body, already bought the fd tps
-Oil filter relocation kit
-Relocated the battery
-Clean up engine bay wiring
-Insulate/heat shield the engine bay better
-Make another bumber/exhaust fire shield... don't need the car catching on fire anymore
-Dyno tune session

 

Good Stuff Izzy, I was actually looking at this thread the other day. I'm going to attempt a 6-port Turbo on my 89' GTUs as well using the stock manifolds in a few months if I can get the funds to add up.
I have a 91' Turbo that runs great, but I've decided there's no point in having two of these cars and dumping money into both so I'm selling it. I want to put the money into the GTUs and run the N/A drivetrain with aturbo until it explodes. I'tll be fun with the Miata gears and 4.30 rear.

The biggest thing for me is going to be finding a manifold that gives me the distance away from the LIM for the size turbo I decide to use. I'm also curios how much effect the VDI will have on power output.
I'm planning on trying to use the stock harness and a MS ECU.

Thanks for keeping this thread updated for as long as you have!

 

Send it back. You'll gain nothing with that throttle body and only make the engine perform worse and consume more fuel at light throttles. You'll need higher injector PW to compensate for the lack of air velocity in the primary ports, and about 3x the accel enrichment for the same reason. The stock throttle body will not hold you back.

 

^ y do u have to know everything?

 

I was gonna buy the rotary works throttle body because my stick one has a bent shaft not Allowing the blades to fully close and then the tps isn't returning all the way home. Microtech doesn't like a tps that doesn't return.

 

Stock replacement would be the way to go. Actually with the 6 port turbo, the Rotary Works throttle body is an even worse decision because at least the stock throttle keeps the secondary/aux ports closed at very low throttles and idle. The Rotary Works will have all those ports open all the time. I'm not kidding when I say your idle fuel consumption will nearly double.

Honestly, the Microtech can use a switch as the TPS. Just as long as it knows whether or not the car is at idle.

 

Well the throttle body I'm running now only has one set of throttle plates, so would the rotary works throttle body really hurt me all that much? I'm wondering if that throttle body will have any benefits.

 

running through the stock manifolds....I'm guessing no. I have no doubt that it will alter the driving experience (on/off swith) however I doubt there will be an appreciable performance benefit.

 

I will day that I have noticed the afr's are pretty rich since I removed one set of throttle plates.

 

The Rotary Works throttle body is one huge plate that opens up all the runners at once. Your stock throttle body (I assume that's what you're running since you mentioned bent rods and TPS?) opens up the primary runners first and then the secondaries. It is progressive. Only the primary runners are used at idle and very light throttle.

With a big throttle body, velocity through the primaries goes in the toilet. When you romp on the pedal this huge gaping valve opens up suddenly in the intake, the stock plenum empties quickly, and it takes a second for air to gain velocity again.

The stock throttle body is intricate for a reason, and it's no coincidence that Mazda has always used the primary/secondary throttle arrangement since the carburetor days.

In tuning the 75MM throttle body on my car I've learned quite a lot about how they behave. Less of an issue for m bridgeport as low load velocity is already in the pooper, but still...

 

So now my question is, is it worth it to step up to an fd uim and tb, or just perform the tb mod to another s5 tb?