NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

It is but it isn't.

You can clip the wheel to help flow but you'll lose spool if you're after best possible response.

I'm still doing homework on the best suited turbo for the job on a six port with power goals between 300-350hp that can do so on low boost without running outside of the compressor map and without creating lots of back pressure within the manifold. Right now i'm down to .86" hotside gt35r, gt3071, holset hx35 with a 16cm2 exhaust side and 8 blade wheel, holset h1c with the same size exhaust side, and the good ol ebay t70/60-1 big shaft turbo that sells for $200 shipped bnib. I figure if i blow it up, it's easily replaced but it's the last option. I figured either turbo would spool alright on a stock port six port due to the higher compression.

no_luck

iTrader: (3)

i also intrested in this sweet set up.. im sorry to ask on your thread but
to do this 6 port turbo s4 or s5 do you really need to have a standalone?
i have a 88 vert that i want a little more pep

250 is going to be enough till i get get a motor built.
thanks

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

^You don't need a stanalone. You can run the stock TII ECU and sensors on low boost (5psi) for as long as you want.

GT series 35+ if you have the money or 60-1/62-1/T70 depending on what the car will be used for. Any aftermarket T4 turbo will be 1000x better than the stock unit in all aspects. I'm running roughly 5psi, specs are in my sig. I've been running that setup for a while, now I'm collecting funds for a standalone so I can run about 8 and drive it till I can afford to upgrade the turbo. The boost is very unstable with this POS stock turbo, it peaks to 5 in the midrange and then drops to about 3 near redline but the engine is streetported.

BNRs work if you have a set power goal that won't change. If the wastegate is ported enough you'll have a reliable setup with decent boost response for much less than a T4 conversion. The problem is, most people will run a BNR and eventually want more power.

no_luck

iTrader: (3)

so wait even if i have a safc2 i cant run more then 5 pounds? i have a after market turbo and the safc2 and im saving up for a aftermarket turbo manifold.... can i safely run 10 pounds if i have all the supporting mods. or will you need a standalone then..

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

10psi is too much especially on a bigger turbo IMO, but because the 6 port turbo setups aren't as popular as low compression turbo setups its all about how much you're comfortable with. I drove 8psi on the stock turbo for 5,000+ hard miles until the apex seal springs flattened out as it went lean from a bad fuel pump. The only reason I run 5 now is because I'm setting it up for the backroads up here (vs. FL).

You could run 10psi with an SAFC if you run water/meth though and have the right fuel mods. If it was a 9.4 engine I would feel more comfortable. And avoid low engine speed+ high load conditions with the SAFC because it has RPM based correction. A member on here blew his engine from a lean spike when he went WOT @ 2500rpm and hit full boost.

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

Since i will be running the microtech and most likely a larger than stock turbo, will i be able to run 10lbs of boost? just want to know for clarification.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

You can run a little more than 10, the standalone changes everything. Add some AI and you can run 15+.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Well what about rtek?

4x 720's on a large frame turbo with aux injection and 2.0/2.1 should handle 10 psi, right?

I'm talking t70/60-1, t04b, gt3582 sized snails with 3" turbo back, fmic, and standard stock port.....

I'm s4 but the high compression turbo aspect is STILL there.

The gt35r i will be using has these specs:


Compressor
A/R: .63
inducer: 63.1mm
exducer: 82mm
inlet/outlet: 2.5" / 4.0"

Turbine
A/R: .70
inducer: 62mm
exducer: 67.8mm

Ball bearing cold side, journal hotside, not full ball bearing......

If it's not available at the time i need to make purchase i will grab a gt3582 instead. Not wanting to go bigger because i want full boost just off idle. Not wanting a peaky setup at all.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

Im running 10 psi on my S5 6 port setup you dont need to change the front cover you only need to drill out the hole for the drain and the bolt holes are already tapped

I don't know how much power im making, basically i used my piston train of thought and dropped one degree of timing for every 1 psi, its worked for the last 10,000 km's or so of very hard driving

im using the n/a computer with an emanage but im sure that a standalone would be much much better

to give you an idea I ran an evo X on the highway from 120 km/h by the time i was at the top of 4th i had 7-8 car lengths on him thats with a shitty 2 1/4" single side exhaust lol

im planning on adding water injection this spring and seeing how far i can take the stock turbo on my car

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

good stuff, i've gotten alot of info from you guys. thanks

lonetlan

So what does one have to modify to make it fit? Also, how do you get the 5th and 6th ports to open?

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

Here is the link for what has to be done to the lim, http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm From my understanding 5th and 6 ports are removed when doing a 6 port turbo.

BotieRacing954

you got the LT 10s thats the biggest part now for injectors RUN 720cc on the bottom and 1000cc on top with the stock turbo s5 turboII uim & lim get a nice aem wide band and get a good tune run like 12psi and you will be happy you might put it at 330hp to like 350rwhp any ?s pm me

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

great info, thanks.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

That should work but as far as I know 10psi is nothing for that turbo, you'd be leaving a lot on the table by only running 10. Most GT35 setups run 15psi+ and put down ~400whp and IIRC the highest recorded dyno with an RTEK was a little under 350whp. I would just buy a standalone, Haltech and Microtech setups sell for like $500-600. If you really only plan to run 10 I would get a BNR instead and save some money.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

350? that's it? I bet it took a SHITLOAD of work to get there as well.

I'm not going with the biggest baddest gt35r, T3 hotside on stock ports, .82 a/r should be sufficient and if it chokes off i'll just buy a different housing and clip the wheel although it should not need it if my theory based on v6 single turbo setups is spot on.

Trust me, my setup will be very budget minded but if i can get a haltech/microtech for that much i might as well go for one of those and be able to run more boost/power.

I'm scared already and i'm still a long way from install....... Not looking to make 400 horse. 300-350 is my goal but i need a turbo that flows up top, doesn't cause a shitload of back-pressure in the manifold, delivers more cfm at lower psi and spools FAST. I'm talking just off idle. Gt3582 looks to fit the bill fine.

lonetlan

I read through the link on the fc3spro website...

Why do you have to remove the 5th and 6th ports? Would that act like a V-tec?

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

i have no clue, maybe clearance issues? no clue tho, maybe somebody else knows.

Scrims

iTrader: (2)

You don't have to remove the ports. It's just If you don't you will have clearance issues. For the stock turbo you will need to fab a spacer for the exhaust manifold to push the turbo out a bit which also means you'll have to notch the frame to get everything to fit. For the common person, much easier to sacrifice a little bottom end and save the effort and just throw on the TII intakes and call it a day (with minor modifications).

slick_ep

where do you guys get your microtechs from in the states? is there a trader on this forum? would that price be for the LT-10s? and i imagine they also do the 4 ignitors also?

lonetlan

So I would need from a TII:
LIM
Turbo manifold
Front cover(optional)
knock sensor
Baffle plate
fuel pump(or something similar)
Water pump
ECU(optional, N/A piggyback or standalone)
Throttle cable
downpipe
midsection
drivetrain(optional, but needed)

What I need to make it work:
Oil lines
coolant line

Tools:
dremel
drill
drill bits
assortment of sockets
assortment of wrenches
Tap/die set

Materials:
JB-weld epoxy(something similar)

Misc:
gauges
confidence
money

no_luck

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean by
" And avoid low engine speed+ high load conditions with the SAFC because it has RPM based correction. A member on here blew his engine from a lean spike when he went WOT @ 2500rpm and hit full boost."
give me a example of what would cause that? cause i got a safc installed now for the time being cuase im running stupid rich.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

^It basically means don't go WOT at low engine speeds (-3000rpm) in 3rd gear and higher. The SAFC can't read load so it doesn't add enough fuel under high load conditions. WOT in 5th at 2500rpm is a good example, thats how a member here leaned his engine out.

Ah I didn't know you were going to use the T3, I haven't looked at the map for that turbo. I would personally use a T4 ball bearing instead especially if its for a 6 port high compression setup but the price different may be worth it. You might want to look at the cheap eBay T70 kits out there, its a pretty big housing for a T3 and it would probably meet your goals. You could have the manifold re-welded but the quality of the turbo might be an issue so you may want to search them. I always wondered how that setup would do on a car with lower power goals that can be acheived with a T3 hotside.

Yup, I've seen the LT10s sell with the harness for that low, Haltechs too. Thats from the FS section.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

I highly doubt its that much power i'm running 12 psi on that setup and there is no way im making that kind of power lo

rotorhead_izzy

iTrader: (36)

i am no longer looking to do this with a stock turbo, got back alot more from taxes than i was expecting, so now on to better turbos and fuel system.